03 Expe Upper Control Arm Q's
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I'm trying to remember but I think the nut/bolt size is 22mm where they bolt to the frame and the same on the ball joint nut. As I recall, the two main sizes were 17mm and 22mm for most of the front suspension.
The bolts to the frame do not have any type of special alignment washers and do not need to be clocked.
When I did the replacement I took the front shock and spring assembly out too, there is a very large nut on the bottom (32mm I think) that has to be removed, the top nuts are 15mm as I recall. I think you can replace the top control arm without removing everything but I did not do it that way.
I used RockAuto for the parts and got the Raybestos Professional control arms and everything fit without issue.
The bolts to the frame do not have any type of special alignment washers and do not need to be clocked.
When I did the replacement I took the front shock and spring assembly out too, there is a very large nut on the bottom (32mm I think) that has to be removed, the top nuts are 15mm as I recall. I think you can replace the top control arm without removing everything but I did not do it that way.
I used RockAuto for the parts and got the Raybestos Professional control arms and everything fit without issue.
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Joined: Jun 2005
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Oops, for disassembly (same for each side):
1. Remove wheel
2. Remove brake caliber and hang to the side
3. Remove wheel hub (unplug antilock brake sensor wire)
4. Remove front wheel knuckle (use a jack to support)
Now you'll have full access to the upper/lower control arms, shock and spring assembly and sway bar end links. There are two bolts that hold the upper to the frame (bushings) and one that holds the ball joint to the knuckle. What you see is what you get, no surprises. If the shaft on the ball joint just spins when you are trying to loosen, the end of the shaft is manufactured to allow you to hold stationary with a wrench while loosening. The only other issue is the sway bar end links, they are tough to get out of the lower control arm but you won't have to remove to do the upper.
With the right tools and a little planning you should be able to do a side in about an hour. Make sure you have a good size breaker bar. You'll need both sockets and a closed/open end wrench to loosen the bolts through the bushings and you'll need an alignment afterwards.
1. Remove wheel
2. Remove brake caliber and hang to the side
3. Remove wheel hub (unplug antilock brake sensor wire)
4. Remove front wheel knuckle (use a jack to support)
Now you'll have full access to the upper/lower control arms, shock and spring assembly and sway bar end links. There are two bolts that hold the upper to the frame (bushings) and one that holds the ball joint to the knuckle. What you see is what you get, no surprises. If the shaft on the ball joint just spins when you are trying to loosen, the end of the shaft is manufactured to allow you to hold stationary with a wrench while loosening. The only other issue is the sway bar end links, they are tough to get out of the lower control arm but you won't have to remove to do the upper.
With the right tools and a little planning you should be able to do a side in about an hour. Make sure you have a good size breaker bar. You'll need both sockets and a closed/open end wrench to loosen the bolts through the bushings and you'll need an alignment afterwards.
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Joined: Jan 2006
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Thanks Bump!
I re-read my original post and see I forgot to note that it a 2WD.
I did the front shocks a few weeks ago and noticed the rubber boots on both upper BJ's were shot. I've got the replacements from RockAuto sitting on the bench and plan to tackle this weekend.
While doing the shocks I took a look and figure I can get the UCA's off without any additional disassembly as long as I take care to support the hub-knuckle.
The front tires need replacing so I'll drive to the tire shop on the old ones get some new "Monkey Pads" and the allignment.
I didn't think to check the socket sizes while I was under there and was hoping someone could remember.
I re-read my original post and see I forgot to note that it a 2WD.
I did the front shocks a few weeks ago and noticed the rubber boots on both upper BJ's were shot. I've got the replacements from RockAuto sitting on the bench and plan to tackle this weekend.
While doing the shocks I took a look and figure I can get the UCA's off without any additional disassembly as long as I take care to support the hub-knuckle.
The front tires need replacing so I'll drive to the tire shop on the old ones get some new "Monkey Pads" and the allignment.
I didn't think to check the socket sizes while I was under there and was hoping someone could remember.
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Joined: Jan 2006
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An update on the Upper Arm
I got the driver's side in this evening. Lots easier than I expected.
Keep in mind this is an 03 and is 2WD.
Bump was pretty much spot on with his comments.
I found the shock has to come out. To get the shock out the tie-rod has to come off. My shocks have 15mm (3) on the top and a 30mm bolt on the bottom. No compressor needed unless you are changing the shocks too.
The tie-rod nut was 21mm.
Be ready to support the steering knuckle!
The ball joint nut was 21mm as were the two bolts through the pivots on the control arm. (the shock hadda come out to get the forward pivot bolt out, the rear pivot bolt had enough room tho)
I found I could secure the steering knuckle with some light twine From the upper BJ hole and the tie-rod hole to the forward body mount. (it worked for me)
Including a trip to HF I spent about 2 hrs on the first side. I expect the passenger side will go a little quicker tomorrow morning.
Keep in mind this is an 03 and is 2WD.
Bump was pretty much spot on with his comments.
I found the shock has to come out. To get the shock out the tie-rod has to come off. My shocks have 15mm (3) on the top and a 30mm bolt on the bottom. No compressor needed unless you are changing the shocks too.
The tie-rod nut was 21mm.
Be ready to support the steering knuckle!
The ball joint nut was 21mm as were the two bolts through the pivots on the control arm. (the shock hadda come out to get the forward pivot bolt out, the rear pivot bolt had enough room tho)
I found I could secure the steering knuckle with some light twine From the upper BJ hole and the tie-rod hole to the forward body mount. (it worked for me)
Including a trip to HF I spent about 2 hrs on the first side. I expect the passenger side will go a little quicker tomorrow morning.
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