IIRC the 292 bellhousing is open at the bottom with a tin cover. Remove the cover then remove the pressure plate bolts that you can see, turn the engine 1/3 turn remove the next couple, turn the engine 1/3 remove the next couple. When all 6 pressure plate bolts are out you can lower the pressure plate and disc out the bottom.

 

It would be nice if it was this EZ, but it ain't. Doesn't matter what size the engine is, or if it's a truck or car.

Front to back: crankshaft pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, throwout bearing hub, transmission.

Remove the (6) 5/16" -18 pressure plate attaching bolts, now what are you going to do? Nothing.

The input shaft of the transmission passes thru all these parts, its tip rides on the pilot bearing.

How can one "lower" the disc and pressure plate with the input shaft in place?

The only way to R&R the disc/plate is to remove the trans.

 

Bill he did say he has the tranny out already. Its OK I still love you.

 

I read thru the first page, but not post #15 as it was typed 6/21 well after you typed post #13 on 6/04. When I read your post #16, was unaware the trans was out.

Sorry...I shoulda read post #15.

 

OK!! After some unexpected home repairs, I'm back to the truck. I received a clutch kit today. My first question is about the release bearing. Do I need to find someone with a hydraulic press to remove and install the bearing hub into it?

 

I typically put the bearing in a vise contact face up with the sleeve loose. I use a large brass punch and hammer. Working alternately knock the sleeve out of the bearing. To install I put the sleeve and bearing between a couple pieces of plywood and squeeze it on in the vise. Pulling the Pilot bushing requires an inside puller slide hammer. Many name brand parts stores will rent/loan one to you.

 

Thanks for the advise. I found a friend that had a press and got the old bearing hub free from the bearing. When I went to press the hub into the new bearing......no need. It slid in EASILY. The bearings measured the same with a micrometer, so I assumed that the old bearing hub was worn. I ordered a new bearing hub from Green Sales (the only place that I could find that had one) and received it today. Just took it out of the box and same problem. I am going to try and contact the company that made the clutch kit, as they have a 800 number. Does it seem like I received the wrong kit? There is a note in an attached technical bulletin that says to use red locktite if you can push the hub in by hand, but I have a hard time putting locktite anywhere near a greasy bearing. Hopefully I'll know more tomorrow.

 

After a long ordeal with the manufacturer of the throwout bearing, I finally received the new on and have everything back together. I have the clutch pedal adjusted all the way out, and there is still about 2" of play. Anyone know why? A co-worker suggested shortening the connecting rod that comes from the pedal, but I don't like removing metal unless totally necessary.
I started it up, and the clutch seems to be working, but now it won't shift between gears.

 

How far off the floor does the clutch start to grab. If you have 6" of pedal travel and it starts to grab 2" off the floor and you have 2" of freeplay your good on the adjustment. You probably have wear on the linkage that is requiring the full extension of the adjusting rod.