Okay, I finally broke down and changed my air line from plastic to copper. The problem is know i have twice as much moisture.
I've add another moisture trap off the main line just before my quick connect, making that two. That helped some, but after the compressor runs for about 10 min., I get water spittin out my air tools. Any suggestions???

Stryder

 

Changing your airline material did not change the amount of water passing thru your system.

There are several threads here on getting the water out of your system, or compressed air system construction. Try the search function for a ton of tips and techniques.

Good luck!

 

It could be that the copper is radiating the heat out of the air in the lines better causing the moisture to condense instead of passing through as vapor. Did you build any traps into the system? Torque1st is right that there isn't any more moisture than there was before. It's just that you're seeing more of it instead of passing it on.
Just my 2¢
Greg

 

Your seeing more mist from the tools now because the copper pipe has better heat conducting properties than the plastic did. The air coming from the compressor is very hot, it cools a little in the tank, but stays warm. When a tool is used, the copper cools the air down a lot, and the moisture forms condensation. You see this condensation at the tool exaust port. Just like macguyver said, but don't put any duct tape over the exaust port.

This problem is amplified by the use of 1/2 inch pipe, I would hope you used 3/4" or 1" pipe. I would also hope you didn't use M-pipe. Only K or L copper tubing is safe and excepted for pressurized air or gasses.

Try putting some pipe insulation on it from home depot. A six foot length is like a buck, wrap all the pipe, and that should stop the condensation.

 

Isn't it better to let the air cool in the pipe so the moisture (that's there anyway) will condense in the pipe and then to trap the moisture before it gets to your air tools and condenses inside your tools or worse in the spray from your spray gun or sand-blaster because of the pressure drop? Holy run-on sentence, Batman!
Also, if you're trying to keep the moisture as a vapor to let it pass through, smaller pipe will keep the velocity up giving less chance for condensation.
I'd say go with a larger run, tap the air supplies off the top of the run and the moisture drains off the bottom.
Just my 2¢
Greg

 

You need to cool the air to allow the moisture to condense. You also need to provide moisture traps and angle all of your pipe back towards the compressor to allow the water to run back into moisture traps and the tank where it can be drained off.

The specifics of air system construction are available in other topics here.

 

Thanks guys! I am running smaller pipe, 1/2" than I did when running plastic. This was to help keep the cost down. I have drip legs out of the compressor before it goes up the wall, and again when coming back down to the regulator/moisture traps. I'll try and insulate and see if it helps any.

Stryder

Edit: I stepped back and took a better look at the pitch going back to the tank and it definitely needs more. I thought I had an inch over 10ft, but it looks more like 1/2". Guess its time for a little cut and splice!

 

The idea behind insulating the pipes is to keep the air humid, and not allow condensation to form. That humid air will come out thru the tool.

NO, this isn't good for painting, thats what refrigerated air dryers are for, but in the case of high volume tools, like die grinders and impacts, just let the humid air out, and keep the tool oiled.

On simple installations, where only common tools are operated, cooling the pipe will form condensation, and yes, pitching towards the traps is a good idea, but water droplets rolling backwards are not going to keep rolling backwards with 13 cfm of air blasting by.

Until I get my air dryer, (1500.00, no hurry) I'll stick with the insulation, works for me.

Eric, my chicks birthday just passed, and I got her some nice stuff, including an IR ThunderGun so she could let me borrow it . OMG!!!, this this thing is like the .50 calibur of 1/2" impacts. I put a socket on it, and put it on a lugnut pn my truck, pulled the trigger and BLAM, wwwhhhhiirrrrreeeuuuu. I thought it ripped the stud off. We were just standing there staring at it saying wwwooooowwww! I love new tools.

 

Sounds like you have the "training" well in hand!!!

Have fun with the new impact. I assume it has a regulator built in so you can turn it down for less demanding jobs...

 

Yeah, that thing is a blast, very nice impact. Yes you can back it off so you don't break everything.

Didn't mean to sound ruff, I'm having one of those days today.

I've got an f-450 in the air right now, started around 2pm doing the clutch/flywheel kit, I put the flywheel up, clutch in, tranny in, crossmember back in, driveshaft in, and exaust up, got the dinner call, and was washing my hands, and while looking for a rag, I moved the box the clutch came in and the damn throwout bearing fell out. BOY I was heated over that. I have to rip it down after dinner and get it back together tonight(I'll probably be out in the garage till midnight now, the neighbors love me), customer going out of state tomorrow. I love working on cars/trucks.

 

i remember seeing a layout drawing for shop air in another thread during hours of searches that showed air lines sloped down and away from the compressor with a 4in. drop per 50ft of line. is there a reason for sloping it towards the compressor which would be more advantageous?

I finally just bought my compressor and am acquiring all the necessities for use and setup. Husky 7.5 hp 80 gallon unit. quite an investment but puts out a good deal of air. note to self though figure out how to get 600lb. compressor out of truck, BEFORE i buy it if i ever need to again.

 

You made me laugh when I read the comment about getting a 600 lb. compressor out of the back of your truck. My neighbor made me a deal, if I would bring his compressor home in my truck, he would let me run an air line over to my garage and tap off his system. I figure that sure beat buying a compressor, so I did it. We bought the compressor and the store loaded it in my truck, we got home and figured out it was pretty freaken heavy. We decided to make a ramp with some 3/4 inch plywood leaned up on the back bumper of the truck. Lets just say that our ramp idea sucked! We might as well of used a card board box, it broke thru the plywood like it wasn't even there! Luckly nobody got hurt...

 

yeah thats pretty much what we came up with as a failsafe when we took it out. i rounded up some helpful hands, we laid down two tailgates and many layers of plywood on top just so if we started to lose it we could shimmy it down te ramp. luckily with four of us we brought it straight up , but scared the s*@! out of ourselves when it started wobbling! but it came down w/o any more worry and they are happy b/c they can stop by and use it and most any other tools or expensive toys.

 

Nothing beats a liftgate. 1200lb capacity, it picks up a 750lb boiler like it's not there. I used to kill myself putting heavy stuff in the back of the truck, after I bought the gate, I don't know how I ever got along without it. We move heavy stuff just about every day in my job, so to me, the gate was a worthwhile investment.