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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

dumb cooling question.....

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Old May 28, 2012 | 02:12 PM
  #1  
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Fulthrotl
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dumb cooling question.....

just dropped $$$ at dieselsite, for various stuff....
coolant filter, trans filter, spare filters, etc.
would have bought 8 gallons of evans waterless cooler,
but the shipping from florida to calif went up $100
for the weight, and dean moon sells it in santa fe
springs, so that's simple.

now for my question/observation...

many sucky things that happens to a 6.0 seems
to revolve around the OEM oil cooler plugging up with
junk in the coolant, and then taking out other stuff
with it when it goes. the OEM EGR cooler seems to also
suffer the same fate, and it's failure rate is compounded by
the oil cooler.

now, a system with a coolant filter will pull most of the
junk out of the coolant stream.

so, it seems to me that if you lose the coolant and go to
evans waterless coolant, with a filter to catch sand and
junk, the OEM oil cooler would work well, and last a very long
time.

there would be no cavitation or corrosion issues as well.
and the whole cooling system runs on almost no pressure,
and for that matter, can be vented to the atmosphere,
as the boiling point of the coolant is 375 F.

so my thought is to put the coolant filter on, change it a
couple times along with the oil change, to get the bulk of
the sediment out of the system, then put in the evans npr+
and a clean filter, and just leave it alone. change the coolant
bypass filter once a year, and that is that.

no coolant dance, no external oil coolers, no grief.

so why is it that for the majority of people who replace the
OEM oil cooler with another OEM oil cooler, don't seem to be
at all interested in the Evans product, seeing as it would seem
to solve a lot of problems?

what am i missing here?
 
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Old May 28, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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VQT
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I scan thru a magazine about waterless coolant system and no pressure but I did not read in detail or the magazine did not goes in detail. I don't understand the term "waterless" is this stuff still in liquid form? wouldn't all liquid still contain some form of water? Beside, our coolant system will be under pressure, how is it that you can get this thing to work without pressure.

How much is this stuff?
 
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Old May 28, 2012 | 03:51 PM
  #3  
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Fulthrotl
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Originally Posted by VQT
I scan thru a magazine about waterless coolant system and no pressure but I did not read in detail or the magazine did not goes in detail. I don't understand the term "waterless" is this stuff still in liquid form? wouldn't all liquid still contain some form of water? Beside, our coolant system will be under pressure, how is it that you can get this thing to work without pressure.

How much is this stuff?
it's 100% ethelyn glycol, formulated to not need mixing with water.
the reason that coolant is operated under pressure is to get the
boiling point of water above 212 degrees.

this product will expand when heated, but the only pressure created
will be the air gap in the degas bottle will be compressed by the
expansion.

the product can be run in an unpressurized system without boiling
over.

the biggest pain is that you have to get all the water out of the
cooling system, and evans gives instructions about how to do this
in a 6.0 L powerstroke:

http://www.evanscooling.com/assets/p...er-04Apr11.pdf

there is mention that the product doesn't transfer heat as well as water,
and water is pretty hard to beat for transferring energy, but it transfers
it well enough to get the job done, and without all the downsides of water.

it's $40 a gallon, but never needs replacement.

in their install instructions, they say NOT to put it in a motor that is not studded.
they don't say why, but my guess is that when this stuff goes into a combustion
chamber with blown heads, it doesn't give any warning by clouds of steam.

and without puffing steam, one of your next clues about blown head
gaskets, would be hydrostatic lock.
 
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Old May 28, 2012 | 05:42 PM
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VQT
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I would use ELC coolant which last about 750K miles instead of this waterless since the coolant filter will takes the contamination out of the liquid (hopefully) and help the oil cooler not to clogged up. Seem to me the waterless is a waste of money if the oil cooler clogged up again, you will have to go thru the whole routine again...

You are not going to keep your van longer than 500K miles anyway

From what I see on my 04 Excursion with 133K miles. The EGR Cooler and Oil Cooler never been touch until now, don't know how much the previous two owners did on maintenance but this oil cooler last past 100K miles without a coolant filter. I have the coolant filter on for the last 500 + miles now and will change the EGR, Oil cooler next weekend. So hopefully the oil cooler will last awhile.

I like your note to FORD
 
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Old May 28, 2012 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by VQT
I would use ELC coolant which last about 750K miles instead of this waterless since the coolant filter will takes the contamination out of the liquid (hopefully) and help the oil cooler not to clogged up. Seem to me the waterless is a waste of money if the oil cooler clogged up again, you will have to go thru the whole routine again...

You are not going to keep your van longer than 500K miles anyway

From what I see on my 04 Excursion with 133K miles. The EGR Cooler and Oil Cooler never been touch until now, don't know how much the previous two owners did on maintenance but this oil cooler last past 100K miles without a coolant filter. I have the coolant filter on for the last 500 + miles now and will change the EGR, Oil cooler next weekend. So hopefully the oil cooler will last awhile.

I like your note to FORD
well, to my way of thinking, if it saves me from having heater core
or radiator replacement, i'm interested... i did the EGR cooler and oil
cooler from BPD... now i'm looking at simply eliminating corrosion....

don't be so sure about the 500k ;-) .... the E-150 with a 351W i had
went 488k without even a valve job. motor never came apart.

i'm just looking for keeping it alive long enough to justify the $10k
i put in the rebuild.
 
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Old May 28, 2012 | 06:36 PM
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I remember about your $10K. So if you did both BP EGR and Oil cooler, there isn't anything to worry about clogging anymore. As for radiator and heater core, I am thinking more of these things will break down due to amount of vibrations it get from driving...

Most of my experience is with gas engine and the radiator went out between 150K to 200K miles on my cars. Diesel engine isn't any different regarding these function. Did you have to change anything on your E 150, alternator, spark plugs, wires, injectors, radiator, water pump, belts, transmission to get it to 488K miles?
 
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Old May 28, 2012 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by VQT
I remember about your $10K. So if you did both BP EGR and Oil cooler, there isn't anything to worry about clogging anymore. As for radiator and heater core, I am thinking more of these things will break down due to amount of vibrations it get from driving...

Most of my experience is with gas engine and the radiator went out between 150K to 200K miles on my cars. Diesel engine isn't any different regarding these function. Did you have to change anything on your E 150, alternator, spark plugs, wires, injectors, radiator, water pump, belts, transmission to get it to 488K miles?
of course... 3 water pumps, two starter motors, i went to a
4 row high density radiator, not cause it died, but to have more
cooling capacity for towing.

and i did burn a C-6 up climbing annie green springs hill in the mojave
desert in stoddard valley one night, but that was more the driver being
powered by jack danials than any fault of the transmission. by the time i got to
the end of the sandwash, i only had reverse gear left, so i stopped
and got more trans fluid, and more jack danials and drove it backwards
across 35 miles of open desert on powerline roads and trails, back home.
took 15 quarts of ATF, and a pint of jack, and about 5 hours to get home.
when it's start slipping, get out, pour in a couple quarts of ATF, take a swig,
get back in and keep driving.

good thing reverse gear held up. i was too drunk to walk.

other than that, nothing much needed to be done to it, save remove
entire transmission and replace with junkyard tear out. that one lasted
without event for the remaining 250k.

i eventually had to give up drinking, but that's a different story.
 
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Old May 28, 2012 | 09:00 PM
  #8  
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Happy Memorial day by the way
 
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