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Top of radiator (plastic part) had small crack and started leaking on drivers side. Fixed with JB Weld. Ran fine for a day. Now I have a bad misfire and codes P0301 and P0302 (Cyl 1 and 2). Cleaned MAF and checked Air Filter. All good.
Plugs replaced at dealer less than 20K miles ago.
Help please...
**Update
So I took off Cyl 5 (easiest) and found that the boot is fine but the collar on the boot is done for. Can this cause the issue?
Did coolant spill on the engine? On the V10 there is a nice channel between the heads and the intake manifold that allows water/debris to drop right into the spark plug holes. It happened to me while changing my thermostat. The misfire didn't start until the engine warmed up and went away after about 4 days.
I may easily be wrong, but I think the misfire codes can be a little generic no necessarily caused by those 2 specific cylinders. That said, mine did not throw any codes.
I continued to drive mine, but the miss may not have been so bad since it didn't start until the engine warmed up. I never really figured that part out. I took the opportunity to change plugs & boots anyway
Howdy, I have 2 Ford E350 V10's, a 1998 and a 2001. Love them. I just changed the plugs and coils on the 98 because I was tired of dropping one coil at a time. I then did the plugs on my 01 and kept it's coils since I haven't had one go bad yet. One thing though. We used White Lithium grease on the plugs and coils, not dialectic grease which had come in small packets with my new coils on the 98. Now the 01 is running ROUGH and feels like it's missing badly. Could the white lithium grease be the culprit? If so than I'll be digging in again. We hooked everything back up again properly and it's pretty much the last trouble shooting method to do. Thoughts?
Keep in mind that dielectric grease is NON-conductive. It is not for the metal parts, but for the rubber parts.
motopsyko32: I would move the COP's off of the misfiring cylinders to the other side and see if the misfire moves. It is about a 15 minute job that could save you $$$.
So i cleared the codes. Fired up the truck again. Drove around the block with the misfire and put the reader on again. No codes now but misfire still there.
Sounds like dirty/wet boots. Dielectric grease is fine for the boot ends and the little spring end and will conduct at long as the spring is touching the plug. I recommend a little regular grease at the end of the spring to keep it from corroding and seal the inner top part of the boots with heavy grease which could soften the boots over time but you will need new ones by then anyway. Inspect all your boots for dirt/moisture and squeeze them to inspect for cracks. If they are good you can clean them up in your sink with soap and water. I really think it is your boots and they won't throw a code either.
Does anyone recommend any aftermarket boot or the Autolite ones are ok?
I got 8 off ebay and cleaned the 2 best ones I had. They looked like OEM and and been great for a year now. There isn't much to them, just make sure they have the springs in them.
So i changed boots on 5 and 6 and lo and behold... the misfire went away when starting up cold. After car warmed up, misfire was back. I am now going to change the remaining boots just for the heck of it ..
So I took off Cyl 5 (easiest) and found that the boot is fine but the collar on the boot is done for. Can this cause the issue?
Very much so. Most DIYers on here will agree that the coils on the MC COP's don't go bad, but the boots are normally the problem. Not in every case, but most. Boots are relatively inexpensive and often over looked. Good find!
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