Key has been "loose" for some time. Would sometimes be able to remove it with engine running. Earlier today I could not return the key to shut off to stop the engine. Pulled a fuse to shut down the engine and then disconnected the battery. With the battery connection restored, the key will return to start and crank, but only will spin towards shut off and will no longer de-energize. Is this a cylinder replacement fix? Tried a very seldom used key to no avail.

 

just go to eBay and order a replacement ignition switch that comes with new keys. The ignition switch was responsible for fires in the Aerostar I understand, so watch out, don't use the van!

while you wait for the new ignition switch, start removing the two steering column plastic cover halves, upper and lower. (phillips screwdriver). look under the bottom half cover and you'll see the holes where the screws are. There is one last screw which goes in sideways, and it is located at the worst possible place, behind the dash's center trim panel, so you need to pull that panel too to get to that one screw, (first remove the two 7 or 8mm screws located behind the ash tray and pull the panel gently, otherwise you could crack it).

If you don't remove that one sideways screw, and you try to pull on the plastic covers, they will tear apart.

good luck!

 

Replaced the old and worn ignition lock cylinder. Easy to release through the poke hole on the underside of the column. No need to remove any plastic shroud on this '95.
The rotation is still free spin towards shut off. The key in the new lock cylinder works smoothly and is an exact fit ($15 at AZ). Having difficulty with search regarding key switch and the mechanism that interfaces the ignition switch. Something is busted, stripped or otherwise missing because returning the key to shut off won't engage that function.
Anybody have experience with an ignition actuator replacement? The actuator turns to crank and returns to run normally. The engine starts and runs without problem. Seems to me the actuator is failing to engage when the key is rotated to shut off.

 

Ford Aerostar Actuator Rod Repair - YouTube

Found this video and am screwing up courage to do repair. The first comment on the procedure cites specifically not being able to turn off the engine. Hoping against major differences between '95 and '96 steering columns.

 

there is a little plastic and copper contact connector which attaches to the side of the ignition switch housing at around 7:00 o'clock, (note I said the HOUSING), you can replace the switch mechanism by pushing the pin to release the inside switch mechanism, but you will not see the plastic-copper contact connector (or whatever that is), unless you remove the upper and bottom shrouds. Long story short, this connector falls off the ignition switch housing and everything goes haywire. Maybe (I said maybe), that's what the problem is.

 

Found the contact on the housing. A good thing to check for suspected ignition key switch problems. It's obvious how its' failure could cause dead key or intermittent starting trouble. It was worth a look.

This contact has nothing to do with ignition key free spin towards shut off.

After further search, I found a description of "upper rack actuator gear" failure that causes a key to turn freely, disconnected from the ignition switch. Could cause starting or shut off problems. Sounds like what I'm trying to fix. It is made of plastic. On second thought, it really sounds like what I need to fix.

 

in my '97, the little contact piece kept falling off, took me a while to figure where and how it attaches, when I did find out, it kept falling off even though it has a "tang" to hold it in place.
I ended applying a drop of crazy glue, and added a large o ring over the ignition switch housing to apply "clamping" and keep it in situ while the glue set. as it turned out, I left the o ring in place too. I really have no clue what it is for, but when it is disconnected, the engine refuses to crank.

 

The little contact piece is part of the clockspring wiring harness. I am not sure what it is either except maybe something to do with the door chime or the airbag. My RustStar doesn't have a door chime, so it does not seem to matter if it is not attached properly.

 

Wound up on the F-Series forum to find help. Part is cheap, repair will be time consuming. At least access will be easy and the work is clean. Will follow up with results.

 

RustStar ehh? in any case it would be "SnowStar" or "SaltStar" up North!

or better yet, "Triple S" ("Snow & Salt Star").

maybe the government should replace rusted vehicles? after all, THEY cause the damage. Things need to change from the Status Quo.

 

Little clip purpose solved: It is part of the "clock spring" wiring harness which is a chime notification indicating the key is still in the ignition lock cylinder. A bit silly eh. duh.

Before I installed a new ignition lock cylinder, I was able to pull the key out while the engine was still running. I could also turn the engine off without the key in the ignition lock cylinder. Hah!

 

I experienced all those symptoms with my 1992 Aerostar. At some point I concluded that I did not need a key at all to start the engine, only to unlock the steering wheel and doors. Then there was a tv news campaign about Aerostars catching on fire due to the "Ignition Switch Something", but my 1992 never caught on fire.

 

The recall involved the ignition switch, not the ignition key switch.

 

On this '95 with tilt steering, there is an actuator (part no. F2DZ 3E723 A) that breaks and will allow forward (crank) but not return (shut off) action when the key is turned. The part was less than $16 out the door from dealer.
The guy who did the youtube video did a nice job. Doing the repair alongside the video makes what he is explaining very clear.

A few observations:
-The steering wheel puller I tried ( Snap on CJ131) did not align with the bolt holes on the steering wheel. This puller is not universal, contrary to its' claim.
I heard that hook style pullers loaned by AZ are also ineffective. I was able to remove the steering wheel by loosening the retaining bolt a few turns and pulling wheel off its' taper by hand. The key is to leave the bolt with 3 or 4 turns holding it in place. This way when the wheel releases, you won't get smacked in the face with it.

-Haynes manual recommends taping the clock spring to prevent it from spinning once it it detached. Good heads up. This tip is not in the video.

-On my old actuator, the plastic did not break but the metal pin insert came apart causing the malfunction. I was able to put it back together. This was helpful when it was time to file the new actuator down to fit for replacement as described in the video. I was able to practice on the old actuator.

-I would consider using a replacement snap ring for reassembly. The original was forced out of round on mine when taken off (I did not notice) and would not retain the column spring until it was reshaped. A new ring would have saved alot of wasted time/aggravation.

-Half inch drive, deep sockets stacked together were a satisfactory substitute for the pvc pipe used in the video.

-The original ignition key just happens to turn the replacement lock cylinder I bought at AZ. I did not modify the pin configuration on the new part in any way. What are the odds?

This is a doable, if not fussy repair. Plan to spend around thirty bucks (key switch and actuator) and a long afternoon on this project.

 

I think the word he couldn't describe is the Splined Shaft of the steering wheel.