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starter problem HELP!

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Old May 22, 2012 | 12:40 PM
  #1  
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starter problem HELP!

Alright i just finished building my 460 for my f250, and i put the starter that i had from my 400 on there, they are the same starter and i went to crank it and it spins, engages and turns the motor about 10 degrees then stops every time

I had to turn the engine over a few times when i first built it to loosen it up from the hone

i can turn the motor with the flywheel by hand with no problem at all

Both the starter that i got with the 460 and the starter from my 400 are from automatics and the 400 starter is nearly new

The ground cable is connected to the starter bolt to make sure it was making contact and the relay is new

This has got me stumped and i wanna break in the motor and drive it!!!!!

Could the auto starter be binding? Oreillys lists all those starters as the same...
Could the motor still be too tight?
Could something still be not connected right?

All help is Appreciated Thanks Guys!
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 07:58 PM
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82f100460
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Well to begin with, if your motor is too tight for a good starter to turn, then you got something wrong with your motor. If you suspect that, try to remove the spark plugs and crank it...see what happens. I'm assuming you put everything together with a good supply of assembly lube on all the bearings??

Check the obvious stuff:
Your battery is fully changed and in good shape?
Are you sure the relay is staying pullled in? It has to get power from the key, is there a chance it's loosing voltage from there? You can try jumping the solenoid with 12 volts directly from the battery to test this. If it cranks away, then maybe you're loosing voltage to pull the solenoid in and keep it in.
Check the neutral safety switch. Is it for some reason loose? Again, jumping the solenoid would confirm or rule this out. Jumping the solenoid will bypass both the ignition switch and neutral safety switch.
 
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Old May 23, 2012 | 10:09 AM
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alright, ive checked all of the obvius stuff swapped relays with the one from my 80 which is brand new, im using a NAPA extreme Weather 1100 battery, loosened the rockers, pulled the plugs ad it turns EASIER but not like it should

Now it will turn only about 90 degrees at a time with a full charge on the battery

i started to think though, When i had the tranny out (NP 435) i used the fly wheel to set my crank to 12 degrees for the distributor. i was turning it by hand.

I had pulled the transmission to see what was going on with my clutch (which wouldnt disengage), the transmission was loose and would properly engage gears, go into neutral and spin freely, and my clutch is still doing the same thing and my engine wont turn.

This has got me confused and a little frustrated because I WANNA DRIVE lol...

The transmission with the top off now feels like its input shaft is really tight although in neutral i can still turn the output shaft...

Could something be sticking in the transmission? i know the motor was built tight cuz i had to break it loose when i first put it in but after that i could turn it with an 18" breaker bar and no cheater with ease now i feel im gunna snap the damper bolt in the crank!!!!

One more thing...The motor did sit with no oil pan but wrapped in plastic out side for about a week, but it was installed in the truck and the hood on... this wouldnt make alot of sense tho being that i turned the flywheel just a couple days ago by hand....

Thanks again guys
 
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Old May 23, 2012 | 10:27 AM
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I just had an epiphany... i guess high school is good for something lol...
I have heard that a water pump bolt that is to long will hit the timing chain sprocket.
The very botom bolt in the pumpwas stiff going in the last 1/16 inch or so, i dont think its to long but could that be hanging up on the sprocket? the timing chain is a double roller from summit backed by the new Lunati Barebones camcuz i dont think my pump was installed when i set the timing.... What ya think
 
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Old May 23, 2012 | 12:32 PM
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From: BC Cana'duh
Back it out and see what happens.Turn it by hand.Hopefully no damage was done.My 460 was tight after a rebuild,but it started right up.It is possible that your initial timing is too far advanced though.But that wouldn't make it hard to turn by hand.Does it turn easier with the plugs removed?
 
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Old May 23, 2012 | 01:55 PM
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it did turn a little easier with the starter ( thats when it startedto turn about 90 degrees.) when i pulled the plugs. but it wont budge by hand AT ALL!!!!
i as well hope the damage isnt bad at all i think im gunna take that giant cast iron beast out and see if it frees up the motor.... if so ill just take out the clutch fork and throwout bearing and leave the bell housing and flywheel/clutch and break it in that way then figure out a trans later. Either rebuild the 435 or go to a T-18 if thats the problem, if not ill pull the motor and go back through it........
i really hope its a stupid simple problem though........ im gunna try the pump bolt first
 
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Old May 23, 2012 | 02:53 PM
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Alright guys i think i just found the problem.

After serching and scratching my head and slamming my face to the desk, i stumbled upon a post from like 2004 about a 435 behind a 460 conversion. one post in particular said that he had to compensate for the thicker, redrilled 390 flywheel with a spacer between the bellhousing and the block. so im going to take my transmission and slide it back and to test my theory, put a couple washers in between to test. this would make sense also why my clutch wouldnt disengage.......Damn i wish i didnt have to work tonight.....

Anyways could this be it? heres the thread, its post number 3, the last paragraph
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...-to-np435.html
 
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Old May 23, 2012 | 04:21 PM
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You should have this plate (7007 in drawing) between the bellhousing and engine. If you don't, then you starter alignment will be off and you could be binding the starter up on the flywheel.
 
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Old May 23, 2012 | 05:19 PM
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alright i have no plate there i have my 400 plate that i was going to put on but the bottom half didnt fit and was told i probably didnt need it, just make a cover for the flywheel
how thick is the plate in the picture? im just going to shim it for right now so i can see if that frees things up a little bit thanks guys i will let ya know if it is able to turn when i get it spaced out
 
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Old May 23, 2012 | 06:24 PM
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You absolutely HAVE to have that plate installed. You must have been listening to a "chebby" guy that said you don't need it.
 
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Old May 23, 2012 | 06:51 PM
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ITS FREE it was the transmission, im just gunna space out the trans with the top part of the 400 plate
the bottom im gunna cut out of a piece of sheet metal
well hes not really a chebby guy, hes mostly ford but deals with the FE series ofcourse hes kindof a *******................................ but anyways im getting it buttoned up tonight and broke in if it isnt too late thanks everyone!
 
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