Rear Cab Mount
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 474
Likes: 3
From: Central Wisconsin
Rear Cab Mount
Does anyone make the front cab mount that bolts to the frame rail?
We removed the cab, removed the rubber discs and found these to be rotten as well.
I do have the 2WD truck to look at once that cab is removed, but I am thinking those may be bad too.
We removed the cab, removed the rubber discs and found these to be rotten as well.
I do have the 2WD truck to look at once that cab is removed, but I am thinking those may be bad too.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 299
From: Kenner,La.
cab mounts
D&D, I made my mounts with a sheet of 3/4 rubber screwed to a piece of plywood in my drillpress. First cut is with a holesaw the size of the o.d. ,then a smaller one the size of the counterbore. I had to make a whole set for my 67 Ford XL . Kenny Nunez
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 474
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From: Central Wisconsin
Sorry guys. I meant the front mount that bolts to the frame that the front cab mount rests on. When I looked out my window into the driveway, I was looking at the chasis to the rear of the driveway.
The 4WD mount bolts are easily accessed and look easy enough to get off.
For the 2WD mounts, it looks like I will have to remove the cross member under the tranny just to get to the bolts to remove it. Probably just cut these bolts for easier removal.
The 4WD mount bolts are easily accessed and look easy enough to get off.
For the 2WD mounts, it looks like I will have to remove the cross member under the tranny just to get to the bolts to remove it. Probably just cut these bolts for easier removal.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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Dennis Carpenter makes the best replacement cab mounts ., abit pricy but worth it as no headaches trying to get it to fit. Fits perfectly, Just drill out your old spot welds and it will fit as good as the original.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,724
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From: Butler, IN
I had a new piece welded in the where the rot was. Used a hole saw to drill the new holes. You can find some good ones at the pick and pulls in the south or southwest. Or post what you are looking for in FTE classifieds.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Central Wisconsin
Found a web site that has originals with no rust for $130/pair. For that price, I think it would be much cheaper to have a new piece welded in there and drilled.
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That depends how original you want it to look , if you want it to look as nothing has been changed than $60 each is not that bad. if your going to spend the big bucks on the dc cab mounts might as well make it look right and original otherwise just buy the elcheapo cab mounts from macs or lmc. theres also the hassle factor to consider.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 474
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From: Central Wisconsin
That web site said originals were riveted on. Anyone know if that is true? Some pretty big big rivets.
I would think that the correct bolt, double nutted and red lock tite would work.
I would think that the correct bolt, double nutted and red lock tite would work.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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Yes rivited on with 1 large bolt on top. Shouldnt be any issues lining up. Personally i would save your old rivits weld them from the backside so it looks all original but drill holes a inch or so away from them and then weld it to your frame. After you grind it will look 100 % original.
Heres a pic with the rivits ,btw thats a DC cab mount fully finished.
Heres a pic with the rivits ,btw thats a DC cab mount fully finished.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 474
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From: Central Wisconsin
I'm not sure I quite understand.
Weld the rivets on the inside of the frame rail
Drill a hole near each rivet on the outside of the frame rail and then weld the mount to the frame rail on the outside as well and grind flat.
The bolt is to just lock it into place.
How hard is it to get the rivets out? Just drive them out from the inside?
Weld the rivets on the inside of the frame rail
Drill a hole near each rivet on the outside of the frame rail and then weld the mount to the frame rail on the outside as well and grind flat.
The bolt is to just lock it into place.
How hard is it to get the rivets out? Just drive them out from the inside?
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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Usually grind from inside rivits will pop out. Then weld these rivits to your NEW part and grind the backside . From the front the rivets will appear original when ur done.
Then Drill holes on your new part, this is how you will attach it to the chassis. Weld to chassis till hole is filled then grind flat. The new part will look as it has never been changed. Or forgo all that and just bolt tho frame where rivits were. It all depends how original you want to look.see pic below.
Then Drill holes on your new part, this is how you will attach it to the chassis. Weld to chassis till hole is filled then grind flat. The new part will look as it has never been changed. Or forgo all that and just bolt tho frame where rivits were. It all depends how original you want to look.see pic below.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,008
Likes: 250
From: North Pole, Alaska
The Baja offroad racers in Class 8 (fullsize PU's, 2wd) would drill all the rivets out of the frame, and replace with grade 8 bolts and and locking nuts. This was done because the rivets would loosen up over time and weaken the frame. If it is a work truck, and is not going to be a Pebble Beach Concourse entry I would just use grade 8 bolts.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Central Wisconsin
So I took a look at the 4WD mounts and they have nuts welded to the inner frame rail. 6 bolts total in the same exact positions as my 2WD which are riveted with the 1 bolt. The driver side mount looks good but the passenger side you can see layers of rust around the whole circumference of the hole. Looks like I will be buying a new set and just bolting them on.
Thanks for the help and the nice pictures. I hope mine looks as good as that when I am done.
Did you spray the inside of the cab mount at all or is it bare metal? Any issues with using POR 15 on the inside but staying away from the areas that need to be welded?
Thanks for the help and the nice pictures. I hope mine looks as good as that when I am done.
Did you spray the inside of the cab mount at all or is it bare metal? Any issues with using POR 15 on the inside but staying away from the areas that need to be welded?