I have a 97 F250HD 4x4 Crew Cab 7.5L
Work done- RHP Heads and cam (9.0:1 compression, no pollution controls), Hedman mid length headers with cross over and true dual for now, BBK FPR set at 41 PSI, Igntion system is brand new stock parts from motor craft, timing set at 12 degrees TDC, customized intake system with dual long flow cold air intake (cross over pipe off of TB then goes to opposite sides of engine bay right beisde the head lights), e4OD with heavy duty internals from ford and shift kit, 315/75r16 Good year wrangler duratracs wrapped around eagle type 058 polished 16x10, 4 inch rancho lift, lots of extra touches (grill guard, step bars, underbody lights, redone interior, crystal clear head lights, 4 6 inch anzo chrome off road lights, billet grill, cab lights wired into stock harness, etc etc)

Things I need advice or links to.
I bought a 1990 F350 Crew cab Long box 4x4 for the 60 up front (already sold all the other parts and made my money back) The truck was a 35 code (4.10 std) and my truck is a 4.10 LS. Will this cause any issues to swap this in. Also, what do i need to pull from the 350 to do the direct swap? Also, I haven't taken it apart to look at the kingpins, but is there a way to replace the kingpins or have them made?

The age old debate, what muffler. I have the cross over about where the exahust normally came together its 2.5 in all the way from the headers to the back with a a spliter at the tip so I have quad tips. Whats muffler to go with for a balance of free flow and a low rumble with out the ear shattering true dual sound? I know everyone on here hates slowmasters, but thats the best idea i have right now so Id like to hear ideas?

Removed pollution: I know its not going to burn as clean, nor is it going to help gas mileage, but what can I mess with here and what do I need to plug up. For example that thermactor system cross over pip on the back of the small blocks needs to be pluged up in the back of the heads, if i remember correctly.

Programmer: I foudn some cheapo programer that splices into the MAP sensor and somehow fools it into thinking something else, but thats seems fishy and i dont like it. Short of a custom tune (no shops in alaska) what can I do?

Custom Guages: I found a set I like that mimic the 60s mustang look, but how much of a bitch is it going to be to swap them in as far as getting the info from the ECM?

The MAF piggy back. Can i get this from any ford vehicle with a MAF? And how does one make it sync with the MAP system?

The SFI upgrade: I saw on here someone did a SFI upgrade. It sparks my interest, but with all the otehr custom unknowns, is it worth the 800 bucks for the ECU to do that especially since I dont have a tuning shop?

Another thing im considering since i dont want to bore it or stroke it (50000 miles on the whole truck) and keep it on 87 octane is aluminium crank and pistons. Opinions on this?

I have a paint job on the way and im painting it that new dark metallic Blue from dodge, and my idea is that this is going to be a mud and show truck (i expect to break stuff so no worries there). Ive been playing with the idea of 36s (looks like they fit) from BFG (KM2s, 345/85r16), any other ideas people can think of? I would appreicate your input.

 

Sounds like a great truck youve got here.

I personally like Magnaflows, I jsut put 2 on my 68 and it sounds great.

For the Gauge idea, I would rec a custom dash cluster so you can have the custom gauges in front of the stock cluster for the sake of everything working right. The ECUs on our trucks aren't very forgiving.

I thought that the MAF kit also converted the engine to SFI...but I've never looked into it for a 7.5

I wouldn't waste any time or money on a prgrammer for our trucks, a simple tune up and timing advancement will do the same thing.

The D60 swap is a fairly boplt in deal for you IIRC. Especially since you have the donor truck.

 

I did the D60 swap in a 94. Make sure you use the mounting plates for the U-bolts and it'll bolt right in.

As far as aluminum crank: what? Did u find one? Because I've never heard of them, but I'm no professional. I do know that aluminum will be much weaker and it will also expand at a different rate and to a different degree than the steel mains it sits in. That's why pistons have relatively high tolerances and expanding rings to cover the difference.

But yeah, sounds like its gonna be a monster. You're going to mud it and show it? Mud brings rocks, and rocks take paint. You can do what I did and color-match rhino line the rockers to the body lines and that'll take the heat instead of painted ridges. It will be some money, but a lot less than fixing rocker damage.

 

aint a whole lot of rocks up here where we go... But That is a cool idea.

The D60 swap, are you talking about using the mount brackets from the 250 or the 350?

 

Figured Id give babe a face in all of this

 

Looks real nice!

You'd need brackets and such from a 350 as the 250 had a D50 TTB not a solid D60 like the 350.

Forged aluminum cranks are great but $$$$$, less weight so less drag on the motor=more power.

 

So I finally went ahead and swapped the axle. Three issues came up. I used the f250 tie rods since they were all brand new moog parts, are there going to be any issues? Second, I forgot to mention the 4 inch lift with the 250 so I dont have a center link drop bracket. Tuff countrys looks like the way to go where as skyjacker does not. Dont suppose anyone has one laying around, or knows where to get one for less than a hundred? 3rd. Swar bar. Do I really need it if Im not going to be towing? ive kind of gotten along with out one.