I have a 351 Windsor in my 69' ranch. I have a Holley 1850 4 barrel , a Edlebrock performer intake, and headers. I converted the points ignition to a Igniter II electronic. It has a MSD Blaster coil. The wires are a few years old but the car hasn't been driven that much. Do I need new wires or do I need to jet the carb. I has no goose. It wants to go but something isn't there. I can barely get the 1 rear wheel to spin, it has single track by the way, 3.0 gear. What does any think it needs?

 

Welcome to FTE.

We need more information....

- When did this problem begin? Has it ever performed as desired? If so, when? What changed since then?

- What is the history? Did this thing sit for several years?

- Where do you live (major city/state (assuming US resident))?

 

Chris posed good questions, but I would ask why are you posting on the 80-86 F/U-series forum with a '69 Ranchero? I think I know - it is because we seem to have answers, and good ones at that, as opposed to some of the other forums. Right?

 

It has sat for a while waiting for paint, I live in so. cal. It used to perform better with the old two barrel but it leaked and I've just kept adding things hoping for results, but. I don't think you would call it a bog down. it just doesn't seem to be developing hp. It barely spins the one tire, smoking it wasn't a problem before all the goodies. It like it's restricted. Timing is set at 10 jets on the carb are 65. Something seems to be holding it back. Thanks to helping me out, I'm new to the forum thing but you guys have a lot of ideas. Bark with no bite!
-Ryan

 

My Bronk was doing about what you say yours is. I adjusted the carb and timing. Got the choke to come clear off and it runs like a scalded dog. Just a thought.

Really not enough info here yet to say bud.

 

This is an excellent example of why I am a proponent of changing only one thing at a time, and being able to change it back (un-do it) in the event of failure. Changing too many tings at once makes it hard to figure out the cause of the problem, and throwing parts at a problem just makes it worse because there is no guarantee a new part is good or not.

The correct approach is, if a problem ensues directly after a change, there is a real good chance the problem is a direct result of that change and un-doing it may be in order. Change it back; does the problem follow the changed part or does it stay behind?

Or, perhaps something got inadvertently broken along the way. Throwing different parts at it *****-nilly and hoping for an improvement is about the worst thing you can do.

Well,... I don't want to lecture you too much, but I hope you're learning something.

So, my advice is to start with the basics - fuel, compression, spark.

- Make sure the choke isn't on when the engine is warm.
- With the engine not running, remove the air cleaner and look down the throat of the carb as you fully open the throttle with your hand; you should see two strong streams of gasoline being injected into the engine. Do you?
- Make sure the spark plug wires are installed in the right order on the distributor.
- Bring the #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke, take a look at the timing mark on the balancer; it should match up with 0° on the pointer. Does it? (I have a strong suspicion about this one.)
- Make sure the vacuum lines are hooked up correctly; I'm assuming the distributor has a vacuum advance, is it hooked up (correctly)? (Another likely culprit in my mind.)

You are in California but with a 1969 engine I don't think there's much in the way of emissions controls, is there?

If the problem began with the new carb, then put the old one back and see if the problem goes away. Even though it leaks, just be real careful (don't start a fire) and do the swap only as a test.

Start there, let us know how it goes.

 

Another thing to check is throttle linkage binding. With the new carb and taller manifold, you may have a binding issue that's not real apparent.

After verifying that the choke is coming off completely when the engine is warm, turn the engine off and have a friend press the throttle from inside fully to the floor. Watch the throttle and make sure it's not binding anywhere in the travel. Look down the barrels and make sure the primaries are opening all the way.

I would take off the transmission kickdown rod while doing this, and then put it back on and make sure nothing changes with it connected.

Just some thoughts...

 

The timing is set to 10 BTC without the vacuum advance. The advanve is working. The choke is working well. Could I have a break down in wires. Is the Holley plenty enough of carb?
The engine purrs and runs well if your not trying to goose it. There is no mid range. It's like I'm runing a small 2 barrel. I don't hear a lot of suction that I probably should when the secondaries open or at least It's not outstanding.

 

The Holley is plenty of carb. My guess is that you have several problems, although I doubt that the wires are part of the problem. Sounds like passages in the Holley are plugged, causing the power valve to fail to open. And, the secondaries may not be opening either. There is a trick using a paperclip to find out if they are opening. Search for it as I don't remember how that works. Anyway, I think the problems are in the carb.

 

Holley Performance Products Frequently Asked Questions

 

Guys
I did the paperclip thing on the secondary diaphragm and discovered that the secondaries are only opening up 1/4 to 1/3 of the way and that is when it's ***** to the wall. A rolling stop to 60. What does everybody think, maybe I should have it rebuilt.

 

What year is your Wheezer? What is its compression ratio? What cam is in it?

 

69'; according to the manual it has 9.5:1 compression, stock cam. it should have had 250 hp new but with all the goodies it should still have that or more.

 

Obviously you have a problem. Have you checked what spring is in the secondary diaphragm? But, even the strongest spring should still allow them to come in. Maybe the diaphragm is split? Yes, have it rebuilt or do it yourself.

 

I would definitly have the carb rebuilt, sounds like it would be the primary culprit. That being said, you have changed several other things that could be contributing to the problem. Start with the basics as stated, fuel, spark and compression. Get the fuel feeding right, make sure you have a good hot spark through each plug, test each cylinder for full compression. Also, check for sighs of vacuum leaks somewhere, or air leaks into the intake.

Ed