On the path to doing my electric fans on my 90 F250. I am using 98 Windstar fans ... I got them fitted to my satisfaction !!! My biggest question now, is in the wiring I have never seen the true start-up or the run amp draw... I would like some accurate info If it's out there. The stories go from 40 to 100 amps on start up to 8 to 30 amps on constant run.

I'm sure, I am not the only one with this question on the 98 Windstar fans. I have tried to find it on the internet... NOT !!! Any suggestions on finding the correct info would be much appreciated !!! Dave

 

If you're turning them on and off with some sort of relay, or other contact-type device, the start-up current as you say, will be higher than running current. Unable to measure the start-up current, you could place a quick-blow fuse in series with a motor, turn it on, and by elimination, wind up with a fuse just sufficiently large enough to not blow upon fan start-up. Perhaps start with, say, a 15-amp fuse. You might spoil a number of fuses, but it's one way to set up circuit protection. If there are 2 fans, each should be fused separately. This is the "ninny", shade-rock method.

BEST, would be to get a D-C ammeter capable of measuring the start-up and run current. And, even at that, you will need to watch the needle closely, as it's maximum indication may be slightly low, as inertia within the meter movement allows enough time for motor current to drop before actually indicating maximum current just as fan starts to turn.

There might be fan current draw info in a Ford Shop Manual for the specific vehicle they are used in. At least, the fuse size for the fans should be shown, either there, or in an Owners Manual.

Now, having gone through all this BS, why do you want electric fan(s)? impish

 

Impish, not a bad idea but to be more updated/hi tech, I'll use the collection of circuit breakers I have acquired over the years 20 to 60 amp.
High amp relays are kinda costly, so I want to buy the right ones the first time.
I'm just trying to add a little better use of the high $$$ fuel I feed it. I have already gone from 11.7 to 14.47 MPG and this is the next to the last outter mod until I pull the motor for the rebuild... at that time it gets headers and a all new exhaust system. The jury is still out in the diff gearing change, that will be the final mod. I should be able to add 2 to 5% mpg and free up around 20hp . I'm NOT doing a high HP motor, but a stouter torque motor !!!

 

What did you do to gain the 3mpg as it is now?

 

Midnite, this is all I did !!!
The Six Liter tune up, run my 10ply tires to 80psi. and as you remember I added 3G alt. and tried to erase some of my bad driving habits Oh yes I washed it too I really think the timing advance and the extra power from the 3G alt. I did the tune AFTER I installed the 3G and felt some difference before the tune. The other thing I did was, a Sea foam type clean out with a water spray thru the throttle body (carbon removal) ... That's it !!!

The test drive covered 166 miles into Vegas twice over a 5000ft pass (2500 ft+ climb both ways) and ran the A/C for about 3 hrs with some stop and go driving refilled at the same place here figures showed 14.47 mpg
Not too bad for a 214,000+mi, F250 !!!

 

Just a caution. You might not get good results with circuit breakers. They're pretty much the same as slow blow fuses.

I'm not sure how relay contacts react to short term overloads, but I think that you'd be safer testing with fuses, or finding somebody with a high amp ammeter. (analog would be best)

It might also be a good idea to put reversed diodes across the relay contacts and maybe the coil as well. I'm not really all that familiar with how fan relays are normally wired, but inductive (coil) loads can have a reverse spike. That's why they put diodes in A/C clutch circuits. But, again, I have no experience with fan motor circuits.

just my .02

hj

 

Diodes are in the plans for the final install. I found relays WITH diodes built in... but they are $49 each Thanks !!!

 

Most 90s model fords use a 3 relay block with a diode slot some where on the drivers side fender well. Junk yards let it go for a dollar or three. I've been using a 16 inch, 2 speed Taurus fan set inside my factory shroud driven by the stock 95 amp alternator ( I will upgrade to 130) & protected by a max 40 amp fuse & run by the aforementioned relay block for over 2 years with no problems. I pretty sure I read some where that the T-fan starts up at 50+ amps.

 

you need something like this, Hayden Automotive 3654 - Hayden Electric Fan Controls - Overview - SummitRacing.com

rated at 50 amps , you will still need a secondary protection relay as well

 

Thanks David, for the info I will go on a JY trip soon to see what's there!!!
I do highly recommend the 3G upgrade ...it clears up a lot of issues on these old beasts ...Dave

 

Thanks, I already have the Hayden 3653 kit to run the primary fan, the secondary will activate with the A/C clutch with an over ride manual switch as a safety thing and for additional cooling if needed !!! Thanks for the reply Dave

 

nice! thats a nice way of setting it up

 

I have done a lot of looking at other installs and checking witch fan set would cover my F250 rad, the best and that's why I chose the 98 Windstar fans. With all my research, EVERYWHERE I still didn't come up with the figures I was after ... Total CFM ... which fan is the primary/ stronger unit ... and the amp's draw of each fan.... I really dislike guessing, especially on the amp specs. I don't own a good meter to check it.
Here in Nevada we can use all the cooling we can get !!!
The only problem I found on the fans, is the "blade" on the 14" side wobbles a bit, I don't want it to shake itself apart... so if I can't find a replacement for the blade, I guess it's off to the JY for a spare. I paid $40 for the last one ... not too bad ??? I guess I'm just too dang picky sometimes

I just noticed, jk89cat we were almost neighbors last summer... I lived in Streamwood IL. last year from June till after Labor Day Loved it there !!!

 

So you really think that some fans from a minivan, with maybe a 3.8L engine, not designed for heavy hauling or towing, will provide the same airflow/cooling as the stock fan from a 5.8L engine (over 52% larger) in a truck designed for towing and hauling?

Jason

 

Yes. Even when parked or low rpms the electric fans are full speed u like the clutch fans that match engine rpm. I have a thunderbird fan in my truck. Suposed to be around 4200cfm. Works great