Factory Intergrated Brake Controller
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
Steve
Last edited by RV_Tech; May 14, 2012 at 08:16 PM. Reason: expanded
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
Download 2005-01 Trailer Brake Controller [TBC] 2005 Ford SuperDuty Vehicles Created 01-04-05.pdf for free - Ebookbrowse.com - Ebook Search & Free Ebook Downloads .
Voltage is reduced, but not absent with manual operation at rest and should lock em up at 15 mph and above, OP is reporting an almost complete absence of braking with manual operation even when moving above 15 mph, if I understand him correctly.
Steve
Laughing Gas
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 939
Likes: 1
From: Central Kansas
Should be on the door jamb sticker.
Oh, I guess I took his post to mean that he was trying to lock them up at 15mph. Guess that's the question. I agree though, it is odd that his old trailer worked fine.
Oh, I guess I took his post to mean that he was trying to lock them up at 15mph. Guess that's the question. I agree though, it is odd that his old trailer worked fine.
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Ok, trailer is good, pulled the brakeaway and brakes locked up. Checked the voltage at the 7 pin, Gain set to 10 and activate controller manually and had 1.5vdc. Road tested it at 20, 25, and 30 mph. I engaged the controller manually and I can feel the brakes engage, and it will slow the truck down to about 10 mph but wont stop it completely.
after reading the tsb it appears my controller will have a normal output of 1 to 3 vdc. (mine is 1.5) thats never going to lock up the trailer brakes.
as far as the difference between my first 5th wheel when it seemed to work ok and my current one is the Empty Weight, 9500lbs vs 11,400lbs, guess the extra weight is making the difference.
now if this is indeed whats going on what are my options? Do I leave it as is, buy a newer from ford or put in a standard controller such as the prodigy?
If its the later can I do it without messing with the PCM ABS or what ever else is being monitored.
Thanks for everyones help
after reading the tsb it appears my controller will have a normal output of 1 to 3 vdc. (mine is 1.5) thats never going to lock up the trailer brakes.
as far as the difference between my first 5th wheel when it seemed to work ok and my current one is the Empty Weight, 9500lbs vs 11,400lbs, guess the extra weight is making the difference.
now if this is indeed whats going on what are my options? Do I leave it as is, buy a newer from ford or put in a standard controller such as the prodigy?
If its the later can I do it without messing with the PCM ABS or what ever else is being monitored.
Thanks for everyones help
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
Ok, trailer is good, pulled the brakeaway and brakes locked up. Checked the voltage at the 7 pin, Gain set to 10 and activate controller manually and had 1.5vdc. Road tested it at 20, 25, and 30 mph. I engaged the controller manually and I can feel the brakes engage, and it will slow the truck down to about 10 mph but wont stop it completely.
after reading the tsb it appears my controller will have a normal output of 1 to 3 vdc. (mine is 1.5) thats never going to lock up the trailer brakes.
as far as the difference between my first 5th wheel when it seemed to work ok and my current one is the Empty Weight, 9500lbs vs 11,400lbs, guess the extra weight is making the difference.
now if this is indeed whats going on what are my options? Do I leave it as is, buy a newer from ford or put in a standard controller such as the prodigy?
If its the later can I do it without messing with the PCM ABS or what ever else is being monitored.
Thanks for everyones help
after reading the tsb it appears my controller will have a normal output of 1 to 3 vdc. (mine is 1.5) thats never going to lock up the trailer brakes.
as far as the difference between my first 5th wheel when it seemed to work ok and my current one is the Empty Weight, 9500lbs vs 11,400lbs, guess the extra weight is making the difference.
now if this is indeed whats going on what are my options? Do I leave it as is, buy a newer from ford or put in a standard controller such as the prodigy?
If its the later can I do it without messing with the PCM ABS or what ever else is being monitored.
Thanks for everyones help
2005 F-Series Super Duty Factory Trailer Brake Controller Tips: Diagnosis procedures for the Towcommand system is in the workshop manual, section 206-10, Auxiliary Brake System. All voltage tests sould be made with the controller at the maximum gain setting of 10.0. Brake controller output voltage increases with vehicle speed. In park with the controller fully applied manualy, the output voltage on trucks built before 3-23-05 should be greater than 1-3 volts; after 3-23-05 greater than 10-12 volts. Controller output with the brake pedal is the same for either build dates. Full voltage is only available above 15 MPH. The Towcommand system works in both forward and reverse. Broadcast Message 3286, 4312, 4940.
When installing an aftermarket controller on trucks equiped with a factory installed controller, the factory one must be left intact and the aftermarket controller installed separately. The vehicle harness connector for an aftermarket cointroller is now a 4-pin connector, and is mounted to the back of the storage bin to the right of the steering column. The radio may need to be removed to access it. Broadcast Message 3332, 4080, 4926.
The Towcommand system is ment to only work with electric trailer brakes and not surge or electric over hydraulic brake systems. Broadcast Message 3179, 4924.
A message center display of "Trailer Fault" is not a problem with the the TowCommand controller. If this message only displays with a trailer attached, the problem is with the trailer wiring. If it displays with no trailer, the fault lies in the vehicle harness between the TowCommand and the trailer connector. Broadcast Message 4927.
2005 F-Series Super Duty Aftermarket Brake Controller Installation:
The vehicle harness connector for the brake controller is located on a support brace behind the dash below the radio. If provided, the adapter harness for connecting to the brake controller will be in the glove box. When installing an aftermarket controller on trucks equiped with a factory installed controller, the factory one must be left intact and the aftermarket controller installed separately. Broadcast Message 3332.
I know many folks are fans of Ford's TBC; I do not share their enthusiasm. I find the self-diagostics built into the high-end aftermarket controllers to greatly simplify troubleshooting both in the truck and in the trailer, and feel Ford's design is easily confused by many users. Having said that, would I replace it? Not unless it was malfunctioning.
I am glad you have made progress with this issue.
Good luck,
Steve
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 585
Likes: 4
We discussed this on the HitchHiker Owners Forum back in 2007. Ford issued a TSB that told dealers "The early 2005 system is operating as designed. Do not take any corrective action." The later model controller would satisfy your requirement, but an aftermarket controller might be cheaper, if not as elegant in appearance. And I believe a dealer would have to deactivate the integrated controller to give you access to the wiring for the aftermarket unit.
While you should see some voltage at the pin, remember that with electric (magnetic) brakes, it is current, not voltage that activates the magnets.
While you should see some voltage at the pin, remember that with electric (magnetic) brakes, it is current, not voltage that activates the magnets.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
We discussed this on the HitchHiker Owners Forum back in 2007. Ford issued a TSB that told dealers "The early 2005 system is operating as designed. Do not take any corrective action." The later model controller would satisfy your requirement, but an aftermarket controller might be cheaper, if not as elegant in appearance. And I believe a dealer would have to deactivate the integrated controller to give you access to the wiring for the aftermarket unit.
While you should see some voltage at the pin, remember that with electric (magnetic) brakes, it is current, not voltage that activates the magnets.
While you should see some voltage at the pin, remember that with electric (magnetic) brakes, it is current, not voltage that activates the magnets.
The problem with voltage, which is what nearly everyone tries to use, is it is not very helpful. When you train on controllers, everything is done with amperage on clamp meters so you get a meaningful measure.
Steve
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