the guy at my local speed shop where i bought the adjustable pushrod checker said i had to use stock springs also. Is that true? do i need to pull these comp cams springs out and put the stock ones back in to use the checker?

 

[QUOTE=82f100460;11832549]I would question how you put your rocker arms back on. On the hydraulic cams, you are supposed to put the engine at TDC on the compression stroke and tighten 8 of them to the proper torque (18-25 according to my book). Then rotate the crank 360 degress so it is at TDC on the exhaust stroke and tighten the other 8 to spec.

This is true with the type of rocker studs i have? I didn't think they were a torque spec, from what i have heard i take out the slack and then go another half turn..... i'm getting confused again now.... lol

 

I wasn't aware that you changed the studs. If you have, then there may be a different valve clearance adjustment process other then what the stock calls for...I would not know what that would be.

You would have to see what the manufacturer of those studs call for.

 

I didn't change any studs. They can be seen in the pic above. I just know that other 460's I have done have studs...

 

All I can tell you is what's in the ford shop manual. If you think about it, the way you describe doing it don't make any sense. If you have a lobe all the way up (meaning it wants that valve open) and you simply tighten the rocker nut until the pushrod stops turning and another turn or so, when that lobe rotates 180 degrees down, all the area that lobe was taking up is not gone and your pushrod will be loose. In fact...you may never open that valve.

 

i agree with you completely, i am just starting to grasp this fully. that makes sense why you have to do it as a two step process with only certain valves each time

 

Maybe i don't even need other pushrods, maybe i just was going about this all totally wrong..... you may be on to something! So back to an earlier discussion, the lifters I have in place are ok? How do I feel them "pumped" up while doing all this torgueing? Should I pull the dist out and spin the oil pump in between torqueing each one? Or will they be ok to do them all quickly? I did grind the gears off a dist to make an oil primer when i was assembling this motor, i have that here somewhere...

But if i have some that are loose, then obviously they still are too short, because they should NEVER be loose right?

I just want to make sure none of them are up on a lobe when torqueing them down right?

I'm gunna get this i swear!

 

You don't need the lifters primed to do this. In fact, the shop manual instructs to bleed them down first.

I would go torque them all down like I outlined and see what it gets you. It will cost you nothing, except maybe a set of valve cover gaskets.

 

Sweet, i'm liking the sound of this! If the truck wasn't 40 miles away i would go outside right now and do it!

 

If this is not your prolem...then the cam/lifter set up you put in must need different length pushrods. At that point, I'd call them and ask them what to do...they would probably know right off hand what you need

 

Do I need to remove the comp cams valve springs and replace them with stock springs when using the pushrod length checker?

The guy at the speed shop where i bought the checker said i had to use stock springs for this process

 

the reason for the stock springs or actually better yet a test spring (I use the dampener inner spring for this) is the pushrod length checkers are not very strong and they will bend under full spring strength pressure. Even stock springs can bend them.

Actually on high lift cams stock springs can't be used either just do to coil bind although not sure yours would reach that but it would be close.

 

These do have inner and outer springs, but if i recall correctly the inner weren't full length, so I guess I will have to swap in a few stock springs or try to find a test spring

 

or take the outer spring off and just use the inner spring. your not trying to control the valve train while running your just trying to keep some pressure on the valve while you turn it over by hand to see the alignment. Test springs are even lighter.

Here to give you an idea is ones that Jegs sells. you can see how light of a spring they are.

JEGS Valvetrain Checking Springs - JEGS

 

excellent, i placed an order with summit an hour ago for some other items, i just called and added those springs. they had some by comp cams for $2.95. Thanks for the heads up!

COMP Cams 4758-2 - COMP Cams Valvetrain Checking Springs - Overview - SummitRacing.com