I'm still going back and fourth on doing a IFS swap. I really don't want to do one now, but with my front suspension constantly bottoming out, it's driving me nuts. The other burner is the big investment in the Toyota swap which would be rendered useless going IFS. But then that means I'm dumping more $$$ into a drop axle and new front springs.... just no winning here.

SO I figured I'd put the feelers out there to see if anyone may have a drop axle laying around or that has abandoned theirs for an IFS swap or something. I figure a weekend or two and I can have the front end issue resolved to the point i can better enjoy driving it. So does anyone got one they'd part with? Also in the market for a set of new front springs too.

 

If bottoming out is your only problem a spring re-arch might be something to consider. It can be done by one person in a days time without any special tools. The help of a strong friend helps. An 8lb maul, protective glasses, couple of supports and new spring center bolts, shackle bushings if required. Did I say understanding neighbors and family. Wear hearing protection and heavy gloves. Lots about it on the 'net.

 

Re-arching is only part of it, and certainly will raise it up. I love the stance it has now. That's where the drop axle comes into play.. bringing it back down where it looks good.

 

What is the front end bottoming out against, the frame, the bump stops? What are you using for shocks, old worn out cheapies? I have reversed eye lowering springs from MF on mine and it doesn't bottom out.

 

It's bottoming out against the bump stops on the frame. It's also rubbing on the engine's tube crossmember, and hopefully not against the rear part of the oil pan sump. Shock are new, off the shelf, units from the parts store.

Pictures are worth a thousand words...

 

Couple things it looks like you have new bumpstops. The stock ones are too long for the lowered springs, try replacing them with a set for the rear or cutting off 1/2".

Check your shocks, remove them from the truck, put the lower eye in a bench vise and start with them at the installed height. Allow them to sit for 15 min then try collapsing them. I'll bet there is not much compression resistance (they should only compress very slowly with a lot of pressure applied, i.e. hanging on them. Most off the shelf shocks have very little compression resistance so the customer doesn't complain about a stiff or harsh ride. Standing them up straighter (1/2 what they are now) would give them more authority.
I don't know what to tell you about the crossmember or pan except can you move the engine a small amount to clear?

 

I'd cut the bump stops,but if i did the axle would surely nail the radius of the oil pan. The axle is dead center of the space between the engine tube crossmember and the rear radius of the oil pan and that space is dead-nuts the exact width of the I-beam. And honestly that was a complete stroke of luck. When i was setting the engine up, the truck was suspended up on the lift with the suspension hanging free, never thought it would come this close at all! Once i lowered it on the ground for the 1st time i about had a heart attack. I have no idea why TD performance designed the crossmember that way... but the engine and trans does sit beautifully in the frame. I've seen other members' tube crossmsmbers for other engines and they don't seem to even come close at all like mine does. As far as I know, I'm the only one on the boards running this FE engine tube crossmember.

I'll pull the shocks out sometime this week or this weekend and do what you suggested. I remember putting them in, had to cut straps off the shocks that were holding them compressed. Took a little grunting to get them to collapse when i was installing them. They weren't the top-dollar shocks they offered, but it's what they had in stock.

I'd hate to have to move the engine as I've already got all the linkages, lines and whatnot all dialed in. Just trying to find solutions that doesn't takethis thing off the road too long, as it's cruising season and the sun is finally out.

Can you see my leaf springs in a couple of those pics? They are, in my opinion pretty dang inverted. Thinking they are wasted. Also having concerns that the excessive invert of the springs are causing castor problems. Yesterday I was on the freeway heading to Portland and the truck was wandering all over the lane, fighting the wheel paths carved into the road surface. If I stayed out of the ruts, it was fine. Followed another buddy driving his '62 Parklane wagon back from the show and he was doing the same thing. However he's got bias-ply whitewalls and figured that was the nature of the beast for him.

 

tramlining (following the cracks and seams in the road) can be caused by several factors: first is loose or worn steering parts. How much free play is in your steering box? Check by locking the pitman arm straight down with a C-clamp on each side. Mark the steering wheel rim with a piece of tape on the rim, and measure how far it will turn. Much over an inch will allow tramlining, as will tires, caster and toe in. Did you add caster shims when you put in the lowering springs? Have you had your front end aligned?

 

The box feels tight and responsive, but i will check with the pitman arm locked when i work on the shocks too.

Has new tie rod ends, Mid-Fifty's beefier tie rod, rebuilt drag link, king pins felt good (no excessive play), no visible excessive wear or damage to the spring/shackle bushings or pins, however I'm certain there is wear as they look to be really old if not original units. All the pins did take grease.

The alignment I did myself on the shop floor. (just toe-in) as I didn't want to have to align it twice at a shop in the event that the springs get replaced. On the streets here in town it does fine, no wandering and i can let go of the wheel and it tracks like a champ. I keep an eye on the tread of the tires for excessive wear or treads lifting (there's a word for that... mind is not working).

I didn't install lowering springs Ax, they are stockers.... worn stockers. So no caster shims, other what Henry or the P.O. may have done to it. I don't see any though.

 

Don't know if they are still for sale, but here is a link to a set of drop springs not too far from you :

2 1/2 inch front drop springs

 

Ha! Stayton is about 10-15 miles south of where dad and I picked the truck up from. (Silverton, OR). About an hour and a half away from my place.
I think drop springs may not cure my problem, but for the asking price, may just pick them up for the hell of it. Will have to contact the seller and get
the lowdown on them. Thanks for posting that dmack91!

 

wow.... i was actually considering putting my springs under the i beam...
it still wouldn't be as close to the oil pan as your truck... i'd have to say your springs have exceeded there shelf life...
after seeing this... 4" dropped straight axle here i come.... thanks for the info
the slotted mags look great!

 

I believe Dano78's truck has an FE big block hanging over those front springs. Probably exacerbates the problem with weak springs.

 

Have you got a good truck/trailer spring shop in your area , if so I would suggest getting the springs re- arched . Does your engine need to sit that low ( It looks very low atleast from the bottom end) And a good alignment shop should be able to tell you of any steering related problems . Ax is dead on about the steering box slack test .

 

Measure your spring length, The same springs will not fit a 48-56. Ford went to a shorter spring in 56. Even if you go to a dropped axle, you probably should replace those springs.