Here is how I converted an electric shift transfer case to manual. There are expensive ($300+) inside lever conversion kits, the "shiftster" **** if you don't mind crawling under the vehicle every time to shift, and some other clumsy do-it-yourself ideas using speedometer cable or a right angle drill attachment to rig-up an inside manual shift mentioned on the internet. I wanted a simple, reversible inside the vehicle method, and came up with using a piece of 3/8" iron pipe nipple, a chunk of old hydraulic hose, two hose clamps, and a piece of 3/8" bolt. I took the pipe nipple, and hammered one end into a triangular shape to fit over the triangular shaped shaft sticking out of the t-case after you remove the electric shift motor. I made a triangular shaped bolt to use as a mandrel by grinding a 3/8" bolt to match the corresponding triangular shaped hole in the shift motor, and then used this bolt to help me make one end of the pipe nipple the right shape. I then drilled, tapped and used a short bolt to use as a set screw to help hold the nipple on the t-case shaft. I then bent a 3/8" bolt into an "L" shape to use as a handle to help turn the hose to shift (you could get away without this, as the hose turns readily, but a handle gives you a visual reference of where the hose is turned). I then drilled a hole in the floor board just behind the drivers seat that best lines-up with the shaft on the t-case. I then installed the nipple on the t-case shaft, retaining it with the set screw. I then fed the hose through the floor-board hole, and fit over the other end of the nipple and tightened down with a hose clamp. I lined up the hose clamp screw head with the markings on the t-case to show where the t-case was engaged (2WD, 4WD, or 4WDlow) so I would know at a glance where the t-case was currently set). I inserted the "L" shaped bolt into the other end of the hose, and retained it with the other hose clamp. That's it! To shift, you simply turn the "L" handle from inside the vehicle. All the way counterclockwise is 2WD, turning the "L" handle 90 degrees clockwise to the first felt stop is 4WDhigh, and all the way clockwise is 4WDlow (you still have to be stopped, in neutral, with your foot on the break to shift in or out of 4WDlow). I used hydraulic hose, as it will not collapse on itself under the torque pressure, but will still bend to line-up with the shaft on the t-case as you turn the "L" handle. I tuck the handle end of the hose under the front seat middle seat belt holder bolted to the floor behind the driver's seat when not shifting, which helps "lock" the hose from turning when you don't want it to (and keeps it out of the way also). Here are some pictures to better explain the idea.



Along with the conversion of the vacuum hubs to manual operation (explained at [URL="https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/9/277/article/Adding_Manual_Control_to_your_19982000_Ford_Ranger _Pulse_Vacuum_Hubs.html"] ), I now can completely manually control the shifting into or out of 4WD. I hope this helps someone else with an inexpensive but solid conversion.

 

inventive idea ranger. sorry I clicked too early on the 'reputation' icon.

 

This looks a great idea, but the photos have now gone. I want to do this myself, so wondered if you would be kind enough to upload some more photos.

Thanks Adam

 

I love it, I'm about ready to do this with my 2001 Ranger 4x4. Pulling my hair out troubleshooting my inoperable 4 wheel drive. Any ideas on mine?
2001 Ranger XLT 4.0 automatic. No 4x4 lights anytime, no clicks from control module, fuses good, motor runs in both directions if jumped, I have power to terminals 1 and 2 on c281a with ignition switch off, and power to terminal 9 on c281a and to terminal 16 on c281b with ignition switch on. Resistances on MSS switch are correct in each position. Changed the switch and the control module and still no 4x4. How do I check to see if the encoder on the shift motor is sending the right signals? What voltages (if any) should I have at the MSS switch? What do I do next?