well if i did it right i am getting 3 codes

18 ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) circuit failure
31 egr positioner sensor below minimum voltage
54 air charge temperature circuit open

what do you guys think??

 

and forgot to mention to gary lewis i had about 40-50$ of gas in it

 

Oh, only a little bit of gas, huh!

Actually, that's good. I was afraid you had very little gas and too much Sea Foam, but that should have been fine.

 

Do some research on that one, I see reference to the distributor pickup and, more importantly, that "18" code can also be translated as:

IDM circuit failure / SPOUT circuit grounded

Fuel Injection Technical Library » 2 Digit Self-test Codes 11-32

The SPOUT is your Spark Output signal, this is one of three wires (I believe it's yellow-ish) that runs in a shielded cable assembly from the TFI module to the computer. It has the little jumper plug or connector you pull off when setting the base timing.

http://oldfuelinjection.com/files/EE...r_Workings.pdf

The air charge thing not working right will also cause problems, telling the computer the engine is always cold.

Fuel Injection Technical Library » Air Charge Temperature (ACT)

 

i took it for a small drive on the road today wich i am not crazy of doing since its not exactly street legal, but i did notice that right now i am definetly running a bit low on power and and feels just like its not getting enought gas, as if i had a cloged filter or something but i know my filter is good, i also noticed it only does this when reaching full operating temperature, when its running cold she is good

 

Sounds like that in open-loop mode, before the engine warms up, it is getting enough gas and the timing is good. But, when it hits operating temp the computer finds something it doesn't like and goes into limp-home mode. In that mode the timing is locked at something like 10 BTDC and power suffers badly.

That means you have to fix the problems the codes are indicating as it won't run right until you do.

 

Dude, look at your computer codes - it's telling you it's having a problem with a temperature sensor, it's having a problem in the circuit used to advance the ignition timing, what more do you want it to do? Spew fireworks and wave flags and flash neon arrows at the engine and twirl a bunch of noisemakers? There is going to be some diagnostic work on your part necessary, the computer can only help you, it's not s substitute for actual human intelligence & diagnosis.

I will never understand people's propensity to not allow the computer on computer-controlled engines to help them. Some people brainstorm and make up rationale and throw parts at problems while ignoring what the computer is telling them, I'll never understand that....

 

Come on Chris, you are being too nice. What do you really feel? Please don't make us guess.

Actually, you are the one expressing what you are feeling and I'm the one laying it between the lines. (Credit to Peter, Paul, & Mary). But, I actually felt the same way when I read the OP's post. He knows what the problem is, why is he giving us more symptoms? So, maybe I'm too nice for this "job".

 

lol dont be so mean guys im not that great in electronics lol I think i found the problem anyways, their was a sensor on the intake, i think its that temperature sensor thing you guys are talking about, it wasn't pluged in and connecter was pretty loose, i used some electrical tap to make a sleeve over the pluggin so its tighter and pluged it up, i have no clue why it wasnt plugged but she seems to run better then ever now thanks guys!

 

And, the computer now has what codes????? It won't be truly happy until they are gone. You need to fix them now and get the drivability and MPG it will ultimately give rather than wait and suffer.

 

You hear all the time "i don't want one of those computer controlled engines"!!! There are a lot of times I wish mine had a computer connected to it...so it would just tell me what's wrong when it don't feel good I wish I could just pull the codes

 

True, Kevin, true. But, having said that, how many time doesn't your engine feel good? Not much to go wrong, so it doesn't go wrong.

 

Very true Gary I guess I was just agreeing with Chris in saying...if you have something telling you what's wrong....Listen to it!!!

 

right now i am only getting code 18 the EGR Sensor one, i'm going to leave it the way it is, it runs gmore than good enough for me and i havent had it have this much power since ive owned it! its just an old mud truck we take out on the 4x4 runs maybe once a month, if it runs half decent i'm more then satisfied i'm way more concerned with breaking u-joints and axles than burning more gas than average!

And BTW it might look like im posting stuff for just whatever when saying its symptoms, im just trying to explain my problem the clearest i can for you guuys to help me or give me ideas where to look... i dont mean to sound stupid or anything but im not very smart when it comes to these EFI systems and electrical problems,

thanks anyways you guys definetly helped me out!

 

Welcome. I guess we are done. Still don't understand saying "mud truck" and "302" in the same sentence, but if you have enough gearing I guess it'll work.