Hey! Dumba$$ question here.

What differential is this? It's on my '79 F150, 400/351m 4sp, 4wd, Shortbed rear end. I think its a Ford 7.5 but I'm not sure. How do I get the axles out to check my bearings and seals? Do I have to open up the diff itself, are the bolts on the front? I've never known a diff that didn't have cover that didn't unbolt from the rear, of course I'm only a wannabe gear head and this is my first DIY vehicle. I'm pretty good at getting things done with just nudge in the right direction and/or can get a schematic of some sort.



I'm also pretty sure I have a Dana 44 on the front but I haven't had time to look for any numbers.

 

Axle Identification Chart

i'm sayin' its a 9" ford.

could be the 8", which is not listed in the link above, but i dont think those were ever used in trucks. not a 7.5 or 8.8, or a dana of any variation.

others who know more will tell you for sure ... but i'm sayin' 9" ford.

 

That looks like it. I Googled it and it still looks like a match. There was a good diagram but it was described as a '64-'72. Is the post '72 the heavier duty version described in your link? Is everything esle the same? It does look like it's "backwards" being you can only get into it from the front. I'll look at it more later to figure out the best way to service it or if I even want to attempt it.

 

To get the axles out of a 9", there are 4 nuts and studs going though the brake backing plate, 3/4" heads on mine. Remove them and the axle "should" slide out with a bit of a pull on the axle flange.

 

9 in for sure and a dana 44 up front just because half tons never got a dana 60, for changing the fluid just loosen all the bolts and pop the cover and stand back because its going to dump everywhere, a trick for that is thread a couple of the top bolts in so your covers doesnt go anywhere slowing down how fast the oil comes out. The 9 in is the same but on the front and you pull the guts out with the front cover.

 

I thought everyone knew that all ford trucks that are 1/2 ton got Ford 9's. They say some came with a Dana 44 rear like Jeeps. IDK cause all of them I seen are Ford 9's.

 

Sorry, that's incorrect. It appears that not everyone is aware of the following.

9" introduced in 1957, used thru 1986, but not all 1959/83 F100's or 1975/86 F150's came with a 9, as it depended on the applications.

EZ way to tell Dana's or an 8.8" from a 9: Dana's and the 8.8" have an inspection cover. The 9" does not / OP's '79 F150 has a 9" cuz...there's no inspection cover.

1959/67 and some 1968 F100's: If Limited Slip was ordered, Ford installed Dana 44's. Limited Slip was not available in 9" F100's until mid-year 1968.

1963/66 F100's were also available with the optional Dana 60.2 / 1966/72 F100's were also available with the optional Dana 60.3. These are not Dana 60's.

After the first Arab Oil Embargo ended, FoMoCo installed Dana 44-3's in some 1977/79 F100/150 2WD's in an effort to improve fuel economy.

Some 1983 F100's, some 1983/86 F150's came with the Ford 8.8" rear axle, some came with 9's, as it depended on the application.

And most people are unaware that there were TWO different 9" rear axles available in 1968/72 F100's.

One has 28 spline axleshafts, the other has a 9 3/8" ring gear and 31 spline axleshafts.

9 vs 9 3/8: Only FIVE parts are the same: Housing gasket, pinion seal, pilot bearing retainer, one pinion bearing and cup.

EVERYTHING else is different!

The 8" was introduced in 1962, used thru 1980. Was not installed in F100/150's, Bronco's or E100/150's. Misc Passenger Cars ONLY.

WER 8.7" rear axle introduced in 1967, used thru 1978 in some Galaxie/LTD's, 1975/80 Granada Monarch.

 

The 9 and 3/8 housing can be swapped into a regular 9 inch housing, which allows for the use of 31 spline axles, which a lot of off road guys do this. Most every common F100 and F150 has a Ford 9 and I figure everyone knows that the ford 9 has the removable center section meaning no inspection plate.

 

You cannot assume that everyone knows everything inre to a 9" .. especially on an internet site.

Most FTE members have no Ford parts catalogs, no Ford shop manuals, or any other type of Ford literature.

For example, you just said that all 1/2 tons came with a 9" which is incorrect.

9's are referred to as a "drop out" rear end because the carrier aka pumpkin can be removed as a unit once the axles are pulled.

You won't find an inspection cover on any 9 inch.

 

1. I give the OP the benefit of the doubt

2. I dont have any parts catalogs, or literature that said 'Hey Jesse your 78 has a Ford 9.

3. Didnt I also say that it has a removable center section meaning no inspection plate?

Plate, cover, tomato tamahto.

You should be able to look at it and figure out quickly its a 9. I mean it sure isnt one of those big rear ends out of like a old F700

 

Like I said, a dumba$$ question.

I'm a gun guy not a mechanic and this is my first full sized 4wd not to mention one that needs as much attention.

I tried to research it as much as I could and was still not finding what I needed so I figured I'd ask here.

As far as the axle coming out. I did undo the bolts on the backing plate and gave it some good tugs but it just stayed put so I figured there might be something else anchoring it on the other end. Could it be because the housing is resting on the jack stand or the bearings are just seated a bit tight? Should I even worry about getting the axles out to take a look at the bearings and such?

 

GO to the parts store and rent an axle puller. When i had my pumpkin rebiut I has to rent one.

 

If it doesn't howl, I'd say the bearings are good.

A trick to pull the axle is flip the drum around and put the lug nuts on loose. Then you can use the drum as an axle puller.

The Ford 8" looks a LOT like a 9". The easiest way to tell a 9" apart is the bottom bolt on the center section. If the pinion housing overhangs the bottom bolt, and you can NOT put a socket on it, it's a 9". If you can put a socket on the bottom bolt, it's an 8".

 

ive heard the break drum trick works pretty well to pull axles.

take the drum off and put it over the studs backwards (inside of the drum facing toward you)

then thread the nuts over the stud just far enough that they wont come off ( couple three full turns)

then pull on the drum as hard as you can repeatedly until the axle comes .... poor man's slide hammer/axle puller tool.

never tried it, but i've heard it works like a charm .... good luck!

 

another way to tell the differnce between 8" and a 9" is,the bottom bolt-if you can get a socket on it,it's a 8">if not it's a 9"