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The other thing to consider is how the new fan clutches are stored in the store/warehouse . If the are not stocked correctly the oil drains out of the resorvoir and the clutch just slips . I ran a part store for a few years hand had to warrantee a few fan clutches that were bad due to this .
my old fan clutch showed no signs of leaking, but does have a little play in the bearings. not much, but enough to notice when wiggling the fan blades. its definately old and a new one sure wouldn't help it any if the new ones worked.
improper storage is a likely cause of the problem, but thats out of my hands and may well be a problem across the board.
as for my testing method, you're right that it may not be ideal, but it sure is a place to start, especially after having the first new one freewheel after a good long drive with the poor excuse of a gage reading hot. and for comparison, the old fan clutch performed much better on my crude test than either of the new ones did.
i bought a real temp gage today and plan to install it as soon as i have a couple free hours, probably sometime next week. because of my poor experiences with sunpro gages, i bought an auto-meter gage from my local parts house. cost about $75, and i hope it'll perform like it cost that much.
and john, i really don't KNOW if i'm as hot as i think i am, i've never boiled over, and sure don't want to!
as soon as i have real numbers from a real gage, i'll post them and be better able to judge from there. thanks everyone!
so considering all this, the highest i got today was 210, which doesn't bother me a bit.
it might be interesting to see if this is a standard relationship of temp vs stock gage, or if they're all over the map
Just bit of info my one in my 86 6.9 read about the r but actual temp gauge reads 190 and just a bit of info for anyone who hasn't read my oil temp post my oil temp is like 215 normal and 230 when I get into it for a bit.... Just a bit of info
the van rides at a steady 195-200 on the highway, which is anywhere from m-l depending on some factors i haven't identified. this is part of why i thought i had a heat problem, as sometimes it runs at m and other times it climbs to l. a real gage put me right where i belong
Honestly I think the fluctuations in the stock worthless gauge is probably electrical current changes o forgot to mention found out about 3 months ago the mechanical gauges have nitrogen in the line heats up and expands to make the needle move
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