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trying to keep her cool

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Old May 10, 2012 | 05:33 PM
  #16  
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I've read that some lock in instantly, and some lock in slowly.


The one in my camper slowly locks on and slowly unlock.



If the old clutch has some oil stained on it, it's bad.
 
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Old May 10, 2012 | 06:18 PM
  #17  
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The other thing to consider is how the new fan clutches are stored in the store/warehouse . If the are not stocked correctly the oil drains out of the resorvoir and the clutch just slips . I ran a part store for a few years hand had to warrantee a few fan clutches that were bad due to this .
 
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Old May 11, 2012 | 12:06 AM
  #18  
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my old fan clutch showed no signs of leaking, but does have a little play in the bearings. not much, but enough to notice when wiggling the fan blades. its definately old and a new one sure wouldn't help it any if the new ones worked.
improper storage is a likely cause of the problem, but thats out of my hands and may well be a problem across the board.
as for my testing method, you're right that it may not be ideal, but it sure is a place to start, especially after having the first new one freewheel after a good long drive with the poor excuse of a gage reading hot. and for comparison, the old fan clutch performed much better on my crude test than either of the new ones did.
i bought a real temp gage today and plan to install it as soon as i have a couple free hours, probably sometime next week. because of my poor experiences with sunpro gages, i bought an auto-meter gage from my local parts house. cost about $75, and i hope it'll perform like it cost that much.
and john, i really don't KNOW if i'm as hot as i think i am, i've never boiled over, and sure don't want to!
as soon as i have real numbers from a real gage, i'll post them and be better able to judge from there. thanks everyone!
 
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Old May 11, 2012 | 09:25 AM
  #19  
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Sounds like a plan !
 
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Old May 14, 2012 | 11:59 PM
  #20  
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so i installed the gage last night, and found the following relationship:
n=165
o=170
r=175
m=180-190
a=195
l=210
it looks like this: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/39418460/Pic...514_201817.jpg

so considering all this, the highest i got today was 210, which doesn't bother me a bit.
it might be interesting to see if this is a standard relationship of temp vs stock gage, or if they're all over the map
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 04:54 PM
  #21  
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They're all over the map. The gauge in my 87 E350 runs on R-M at 180*

And the gauge in my 85 E350 runs on N-O, (no real gauge yet, but it should be running around the same temps as the camper).







A good example is my F150 when I swapped cluster for one with a tach.

The original basic cluster, fully warmed up, it rides the N-O.

The tach cluster temp gauge rides in between the first cold line, and the N. It doesn't even reach the N.





What does your van run at on the highway?
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 07:26 PM
  #22  
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Just bit of info my one in my 86 6.9 read about the r but actual temp gauge reads 190 and just a bit of info for anyone who hasn't read my oil temp post my oil temp is like 215 normal and 230 when I get into it for a bit.... Just a bit of info
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 08:04 PM
  #23  
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the van rides at a steady 195-200 on the highway, which is anywhere from m-l depending on some factors i haven't identified. this is part of why i thought i had a heat problem, as sometimes it runs at m and other times it climbs to l. a real gage put me right where i belong
 
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Old May 15, 2012 | 10:11 PM
  #24  
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Honestly I think the fluctuations in the stock worthless gauge is probably electrical current changes o forgot to mention found out about 3 months ago the mechanical gauges have nitrogen in the line heats up and expands to make the needle move
 
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