Hey all...haven't been on for a couple weeks...sorry!!

Dropped the pan on my C6 to change the filter and fix some leaks, at least was hoping too.

The shift lever has developed a leak so wanted to install a new seal while I had the pan dropped. I can't figure out how to remove the inner downshift lever.

The Shop Manual simply states to slide it out from the inside of the casing but it is engaged into the valve body and cannot do that.

My manual is for my 82 but the tranny is a 77 so not sure if they changed the configuration between the years.

In the picture, you can see it taking a 90 into the VB. Seems to me the VB needs to come down but the shop manual don't mention this needs to be done.
Any tricks to getting this out or does the VB need to be removed? If it does...I think I'll just skip it for now...tranny, I think, is going to need a rebuild.

 

Are you Kevin?

 

Kevin, drop the valve body, BTW, did you drain the converter? If you didn't it will be messy when you drop the VB. Pull the inner downshift lever towards the gear set enough to get a 7/8" wrench on the nut for the "comb" (Remove the detent spring and roller from the case first), I can usually get a box wrench on it by threading it over the downshift lever.

Hold the outer shift lever with something while you loosen the nut. Once it is loose, and the neutral safety switch is removed, the outer lever will slide out of the case, and (this is important!) the inner downshift lever will fall out. When you get ready to reassemble, be sure you out the inner downshift lever and shaft into the outer manual lever as you insert it. Be sure that all the inside stuff, including the nut is all in sequence as you put things in. Use a new O-ring on the downshift shaft also.

 

yep...good to meet you

 

From looking at it, that all makes sense...thanks Bill!! By "comb" do you mean the manual shift lever (outer)? Or is this what the shift lever engages into?

Btw...this is nothing like what the ford shop manual says. All it states is to remove the nut holding the downshift lever linkage and then slide the inner shaft out into the case. Hmmm...I think they missed a few steps. They do show a picture and in this picture it has the VB removed, it just don't state to remove it.

And no I have not drained the converter. Was planning on doing so before I buttoned it back up but didn't realize it would drain through the VB when removed. Thanks for the tip

One more question Bill. The kit I bought only has one seal in it and some 0-rings. does this sound right? The seal, I think, seals the outer shaft to the casing. The inner shaft just uses an 0-Ring?

Raining here now so looks like it will have to wait for another day.

 

Bill...thank you very much for your help....no way I would have got it all out without your help. Much appreicated.

Of course I played with it for 3 hours trying to get it all back together before I read again where you said to take the spring detent and roller off. That helped there too.

Still not all buttoned up but it's all pretty straight forward from here.

 

Kevin, sorry I hadn't been back on until just now, doing things at the retirement location and then watching the Nationwide race. One of the O-rings should fit the downshift shaft. Just be sure the inner downshift lever is between the stop on the valve body and the valve. Sounds like you have it under control.

 

Thanks Bill...it's definately one of those things that seems overwhelming until you do it once. Then you sit back and think, "that wasn't too bad"

 

I don't think you want to know how many different automatics and standards I have had apart.

 

Definately shows

 

My next project is the 4R70W I am building for my son, Archion. It will be a mild build for towing. Bert's Transmission's in Newport News is getting the parts for us and I will build it in his shop.

 

Wish I was in the area....would love to swing by and soak up some knowledge

 

Ok...next issue. When I left off yesterday I had everything connect and (thought) ready to go.

This morning I get ready to put the valve body back on and realize the shifter is in "D". When I go to put it in park, where I thought I had it when I disassembled it all, it would not go.

Looking at the picture, I think the parking pawl lever may not be engaged correctly. Unfortunately, with all the pictures I took before disassembly, I did not get one of how it was engaged initially.

This look like it needs to be different? If so...looks like it needs to come back apart. I tried for about an hour to get the little C clip off the manual linkage holding the lever on but just can't get it off.

 

Kevin, it looks like it came out of the guide in the back of the case. If you have the chassis book of the 82 manual, it should show how it fits with the linkage and you are correct, it probably has to come apart again.

 

I took it all apart and just can't get the rod to engage. When I drained the torque converter, I had to rotate the engine to get to the plug so I think I rotated the parking gear. I do have the manual and looking at it now as it pours down rain

Not sure that rotating the engine should have moved the back end...can't imagine it would have with the rear wheels on the ground.

I guess when it's done raining I'll get out there and play with it some more. As usual, it will probably eventually just fall in place.

Thanks for the help Bill