I'm working with 54firetruck on his rig. We've nearly finished our brake work and I'm preparing to attack the bird's-nest wiring that has taken root in the last 49 years. Most of the original wiring had cloth insulation that is long, long gone. This has left just bare wires exposed anong the framerails and under the dash. We also need to fix the brake light switch before she's legal. I need to know how that switch works and where the leads go to under the dash. Just before the wires enter the dash they disappear into a ball of wires covered in electrical tape, presumably from the 70s. I need to rewire the leads to the roof beacon and to the pillar mounted spotlights. The headliner is missing and it's easy to get to these accessories. Does anybody know the best way to do this stuff? The wiring diagrams in the old service manual is no help due to the amount of modifications that came with the pumper conversion (Howe with Waterous pump). A friend is reading half-centure old manuals about how the pump was constructed. Is there any way to know if ours works? The transfer case lever on the driver's side just above the gas filler will not go into the PUMP position. It gets stuck between PRIME and DRIVE. It usually takes a swift kick to get it back into gear. Any help?

 

If you plan to keep the truck original, I would just pull all the old wiring out and buy a new original type wiring harness. Even though it's a fire truck, the wiring will be basically the same as a production 54. It will be much easier to wire the old truck from scratch than trace down and replace the bad wires. If the truck is not original, then take a look at some aftermarket wiring systems by Ron Francis, EZ wire, Painless Wiring, and others.

 

I agree with GNW, replace the wiring completely. Unless you really plan on using the pump and so on (???), just hook up some dummy wires for that so it looks functional.

Have you tried a websearch to see if there are any sites out there by ppl who've restored an old fire truck? That might be of help.

 

Brake light switch: The switch is pressure activated. It takes power from the headlight switch as I remember, goes through the turn signal indicator and brakelight switch. I will have to pull a manual at home and find out for sure.

Wiring harness: build one from scratch or buy one. I would not trust any part of the original.

My experience begins on late '60's fire trucks FWW.

Fire Pump operation: The pump is a single or duel stage centrifigal pump. A single stage pumps in volume and a duel stage pump has both a volume and high pressure setting. If duel, there will be a handle to switch.

Normally you push in the clutch and put the pto in gear. This is a square cut gear so it may balk. Some units will "run and gun" while others have a "road" and "pump" position. The former will pump in any gear or neutral. If you have the latter, you put the tranny in 4th or so and let out the clutch. The pump should engage. Disengage with the clutch.

Pull the "tank to pump" valve and it should give you pressure to whatever discharge you wish to open. The main pressure gauge should read something at idle and you turn the throttle to get the desired pressure. Don't be surprised to see the pump packings leak a considerable amount. They should. They can be repacked or tightened up if necessary. If you are pumping and not moving water around, it will get hot. Open the "tank fill/recirculate" valve or turn a discharge back into the tank

The primer is normally an electric motor that turns a gear type constant dispalcement pump. It is used to inject water and or motor oil mixture into the pump in case it is dry or will not pick up water. The primer is seldom used on a properly functioning truck.