Factory subwoofer upgrade?
#61
I did the same upgrade last month.
The connector has audio, A+,ground. The switch power to turn the amp on is only 5 volts so it did not work to turn the amp on. I had to run a switched 12 power line back. I just tapped off of the radio fuse and ran the wire back.
It was a great install. I noticed a huge difference. I had also upgraded the 4 door speakers earlier.
The connector has audio, A+,ground. The switch power to turn the amp on is only 5 volts so it did not work to turn the amp on. I had to run a switched 12 power line back. I just tapped off of the radio fuse and ran the wire back.
It was a great install. I noticed a huge difference. I had also upgraded the 4 door speakers earlier.
#62
I installed this amp and the remote turn on works. Kinda scares the crap out of you the first couple of times it turns on with a big THUMP coming from the back seat area.
Replaced the factory driver with this. Thought I had ordered the 8" but when the 10" arrived, I figured out a way to make it work in the stock box. Combination of this driver and amp rock pretty well for a cost effective system.
Probably should have upgraded the power wiring to the amp, specs call for 4 gauge and I used the factory 16ish gauge.
Replaced the factory driver with this. Thought I had ordered the 8" but when the 10" arrived, I figured out a way to make it work in the stock box. Combination of this driver and amp rock pretty well for a cost effective system.
Probably should have upgraded the power wiring to the amp, specs call for 4 gauge and I used the factory 16ish gauge.
#63
bryced15,
There is 5 wires to the factory amp mounted on the sub box.
Green/white Audio -
Violet/green Audio +
Blue/Red (heavier wire) Alway hot power wire for the amp A+
Black/yellow Ground
Violet/red is the switched power to turn the amp on. This is the wire that will not work as it only has 5 volts on it. I just capped it off with a piece of heat shrink tubing. The amp requires 12 volts to turn it on. I ran a wire from the fuse box with a fuse tap from the radio fuse. When the key is turned on it gives 12 volts to the amp and turns it on.
I hope this helps. I got a Ford schematic from another member posted on another thread. I will look and try to find the link.
Sean
There is 5 wires to the factory amp mounted on the sub box.
Green/white Audio -
Violet/green Audio +
Blue/Red (heavier wire) Alway hot power wire for the amp A+
Black/yellow Ground
Violet/red is the switched power to turn the amp on. This is the wire that will not work as it only has 5 volts on it. I just capped it off with a piece of heat shrink tubing. The amp requires 12 volts to turn it on. I ran a wire from the fuse box with a fuse tap from the radio fuse. When the key is turned on it gives 12 volts to the amp and turns it on.
I hope this helps. I got a Ford schematic from another member posted on another thread. I will look and try to find the link.
Sean
#64
Here is a link to the thread from 2000silverbullet with a PDF of the Ford factory schematic. It gives you all of the wiring and color codes.
I hope this link works.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...bwoofer-3.html
I hope this link works.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...bwoofer-3.html
#65
bryced15,
There is 5 wires to the factory amp mounted on the sub box.
Green/white Audio -
Violet/green Audio +
Blue/Red (heavier wire) Alway hot power wire for the amp A+
Black/yellow Ground
Violet/red is the switched power to turn the amp on. This is the wire that will not work as it only has 5 volts on it. I just capped it off with a piece of heat shrink tubing. The amp requires 12 volts to turn it on. I ran a wire from the fuse box with a fuse tap from the radio fuse. When the key is turned on it gives 12 volts to the amp and turns it on.
I hope this helps. I got a Ford schematic from another member posted on another thread. I will look and try to find the link.
Sean
There is 5 wires to the factory amp mounted on the sub box.
Green/white Audio -
Violet/green Audio +
Blue/Red (heavier wire) Alway hot power wire for the amp A+
Black/yellow Ground
Violet/red is the switched power to turn the amp on. This is the wire that will not work as it only has 5 volts on it. I just capped it off with a piece of heat shrink tubing. The amp requires 12 volts to turn it on. I ran a wire from the fuse box with a fuse tap from the radio fuse. When the key is turned on it gives 12 volts to the amp and turns it on.
I hope this helps. I got a Ford schematic from another member posted on another thread. I will look and try to find the link.
Sean
#66
#67
That will lead to either the wiring failing due to overload or the amp failing prematurely due to inadequate power supply and it choking itself. I've seen wiring get overloaded so much it melts the jacket off and shorts the first piece of metal it meets. Your truck, your rules, but you are on borrowed time in my opinion.
#68
That will lead to either the wiring failing due to overload or the amp failing prematurely due to inadequate power supply and it choking itself. I've seen wiring get overloaded so much it melts the jacket off and shorts the first piece of metal it meets. Your truck, your rules, but you are on borrowed time in my opinion.
#69
There is 5 wires to the factory amp mounted on the sub box.
Green/white Audio -
Violet/green Audio +
Blue/Red (heavier wire) Alway hot power wire for the amp A+
Black/yellow Ground
Violet/red is the switched power to turn the amp on. This is the wire that will not work as it only has 5 volts on it. I just capped it off with a piece of heat shrink tubing. The amp requires 12 volts to turn it on. I ran a wire from the fuse box with a fuse tap from the radio fuse. When the key is turned on it gives 12 volts to the amp and turns it on.
I hope this helps. I got a Ford schematic from another member posted on another thread. I will look and try to find the link.
Green/white Audio -
Violet/green Audio +
Blue/Red (heavier wire) Alway hot power wire for the amp A+
Black/yellow Ground
Violet/red is the switched power to turn the amp on. This is the wire that will not work as it only has 5 volts on it. I just capped it off with a piece of heat shrink tubing. The amp requires 12 volts to turn it on. I ran a wire from the fuse box with a fuse tap from the radio fuse. When the key is turned on it gives 12 volts to the amp and turns it on.
I hope this helps. I got a Ford schematic from another member posted on another thread. I will look and try to find the link.
#71
#73
#74
#75