U-Joint Replacement
#16
Dan, that's just not right! Do you have a 9" in your truck? I'd say your driveshaft is at least an inch and a half too short. I checked the travel limit on mine, both before and after smacking the cup. It bottoms 3/4 - 1" from the yoke. With weight on the rear axle at rest, the seal surface is 1/2" - 5/8" from bottomed. I can take a picture if you want?
#17
Dan, that's just not right! Do you have a 9" in your truck? I'd say your driveshaft is at least an inch and a half too short. I checked the travel limit on mine, both before and after smacking the cup. It bottoms 3/4 - 1" from the yoke. With weight on the rear axle at rest, the seal surface is 1/2" - 5/8" from bottomed. I can take a picture if you want?
#18
#19
U Joint
Although I myself have never done it I heard the later 1970s G.M. is the same U joint as Ford, of the 1950s.
Take the old one your original to Napa and if you get a good parts man they will get you one. Thats the issue now a days a good parts man is getting hard to find.
I went into a local parts store waited in line for about 15 minutes to get to the parts counter, once I got there I gave the kid behind the counter the info of the part needed. I needed a 54 inch V Belt X 1/2 inch, well he said they don't sell them like that he had to know what it was for. By this time after waiting in line for 15 minutes I came up against this guy.
He wanted a story I gave him one he must have looked through 6 books trying to find some thing tha didn't exist. I did try to help him out in the first place, but this guy seemed to know all there was, sort of a self proclaimed pro.
So I went over to the appliance dept., and there it was exactly the size i needed, it only lasted the 150 mile trip that I needed it for but it did work. The following Monday I went to a place that sells bearings & Belts, got exactly what I needed with just the measurement info.
Take the old one your original to Napa and if you get a good parts man they will get you one. Thats the issue now a days a good parts man is getting hard to find.
I went into a local parts store waited in line for about 15 minutes to get to the parts counter, once I got there I gave the kid behind the counter the info of the part needed. I needed a 54 inch V Belt X 1/2 inch, well he said they don't sell them like that he had to know what it was for. By this time after waiting in line for 15 minutes I came up against this guy.
He wanted a story I gave him one he must have looked through 6 books trying to find some thing tha didn't exist. I did try to help him out in the first place, but this guy seemed to know all there was, sort of a self proclaimed pro.
So I went over to the appliance dept., and there it was exactly the size i needed, it only lasted the 150 mile trip that I needed it for but it did work. The following Monday I went to a place that sells bearings & Belts, got exactly what I needed with just the measurement info.
#20
Yes, 5-star, it's the Powerglide yoke that is the same spline and u-joint but has a longer snout; see here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12123232
Here's how mine is sitting. The red arrow is the furthest it will go in. You can see the oil ring from the seal. This is with the wheels on the ground, fully assembled truck.
Here's how mine is sitting. The red arrow is the furthest it will go in. You can see the oil ring from the seal. This is with the wheels on the ground, fully assembled truck.
#21
#22
#23
Everything on the truck is stock. Obviously, either the engine/tranny is too far forward or the rear end is too far back. Since the engine mounts haven't moved I think the problem has to do with the rear springs. I started to think there was a problem when I installed the parking brake cables. They were stretched much too tight between the rear backing plates and the mechanism under the rear cross member. The original springs fell apart when I took them off so I bought replacement springs. I compared them to the originals before I installed them and thought they matched up well. I guess I'll have to go back and take a closer look.
Even with no weight on the chassis, the yoke should not pull out that far...
Edit; I am slow at typing.....as Ross said, you have the spring hangers in the wrong position. No biggie....
#25
I think you're right, Scott, the shackle just needs to move to the rear. I wouldn't have thought they are the same, but it looks like the frame brackets are the same. Unfortunately, it means pulling the pins out again, should be able to leave the axle connected. BTW notice how the pinion appears to be pointed down in his picture.
#26
Feeling kind of dumb right now but at least I won't make that mistake again. Thanks for your help.
#27
Is it possible that your springs are reversed....front to back? I don't remember if the center pin is actually in the center of the spring or offset?
Even with no weight on the chassis, the yoke should not pull out that far...
Edit; I am slow at typing.....as Ross said, you have the spring hangers in the wrong position. No biggie....
Even with no weight on the chassis, the yoke should not pull out that far...
Edit; I am slow at typing.....as Ross said, you have the spring hangers in the wrong position. No biggie....
#28
#29
#30
Yeah, it only took about two hours last night. The biggest problem was fighting off the mosquitos. I had planned to do it Sunday afternoon but a boy from town who's parents we know was running in the Olympics (steeplechase) so we joined friends to watch a broadcast of the race at the high school auditorium. He didn't win but it was a lot of fun to cheer him on.
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