Garbz, I added a blaster 2 coil and MSD distributor. I am still running the pink wire but don't think there is a resistor on it any more. I will have to check the voltage.

 

Heading out to the junk yard now, while the rain is not coming in sideways.

 

the pink wire is the resistor.
its Ford's way of doing the same thing as the Chrysler-style block resistors.

 

I did the 3G alternator swap on Friday but did not get the last wire hooked up yet. Its the green/red wire that triggers the alternator to start charging. I plan on wiring up the distribution block for the switched 12v today. Has anyone else done a 3G swap into their slick? Anything else I should be aware of on this. I got my info from the 73-79 forum on here about how to do the swap.

Thank you everyone for the input. This is a very helpful community. You should try asking a question on XDA developers sometime if you want to see how horrible people on the internet can be.

Ben

 

i haven't done this in my slick yet, but i think the 65 Galaxie is the same (or very similar, at least.)

wire comes from idiot lamp in the dash, through the firewall, to the "I" terminal on the old external voltage regulator.

after i tore out the regulator, i just soldered a lead on, and connected it to the green/red on the 3G. done.

i'm sure you saw these already, but just in case:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/pictures/G.../3Ginstall.jpg
http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/publ...ALT_wiring.gif

 

If the pink wire is regulated what is the correct way to run a blaster coil?

 

if you have points, you need a resistor.
since you don't have points, you should bypass the resistor.

here's the document i'm reading-
Ford FE Ready-to-Run Distributor - 8595
hit the "instructions" tab, then open the PDF file. scroll down to page 7, it has a wiring diagram. there's no resistor.


if you want to verify- here's the link to the Blaster 2 coil:
Blaster 2 Coil Hi-Performance - 8202
page 2 shows the wiring diagram for a points system- with a ballast resistor.

 

pburress- we might be better off starting a new thread for this one- but i think you should check to see where the other end of your idiot light is connected. maybe somebody has moved it?

worst-case scenario...you could re-route it. anything that is switched 12v should work (like coil positive).

 

So I did take the resistor off when I installed the MSD stuff. Even with the new alternator it still hesitates when you hit the blinker at speeds over 40mph. I just got the fuse panel I ordered to set up a better switched 12v source for all of the addons I have. I plan to rewire everything this weekend, not just to fix this but right now I have a fire hazard with the amount of things I have running off of 1 wire. Guess I planned to fail on this one but lucked out and will get it fixed before I have a problem.

pburress; I saw that on the Ron Francis site. It looks cool and I will probably run one in the near future. It would be nice to know whew your alternator is not working. The strange thing I have is the ammeter in the dash is still registering even though I removed all the regulator wiring when I switched to the new alternator. It is just showing the load on the system in amps but I thought it was supposed to get that info from the regulator. guess I misunderstood. Not a bad thing though since I can see when the electric fan turns on which is nice for piece of mind.

Ben

 

Are you referring to the stock pink wire resistor, or a Chrysler-style ceramic block?

If you had the pink wire AND a block, then you'd need to remove/bypass both.

 

I added a switched 12v fuse panel under the hood to trigger the relays for some of the new items I added and run some of the other low amp low voltage items. I checked the wire coming to the coil and it is a pink wire but I had already removed the resistor that was in line on it. I am still getting the hesitation when I flip the blinkers on. Now it is doing it at lower speeds.

Should I be running the coil off of a different 12v source? directly from the battery with a relay?

 

the pink wire IS a resistor.
you need to bypass it.

if you started off with the pink wire AND a ceramic resisitor block, you were probably only getting ~6v at the coil. not good.

with the truck running, check your voltage at the coil with the pink wire in place. if its about 9v, bypass the pink wire. you want 12v.

 

I checked the voltage and it ranges 5v to 12.55v, it is contently changing. I checked with the blinkers on and off and got the same sporadic readings. What does this mean? Can I run a 12v switched wire from my new fuse block I installed under the hood? If so how many amps should the fuse be?

Ben

 

hm.
before we get into running a new 12v wire...if you hook the voltmeter up between the alternator output and battery ground, with the truck running- do you see the same fluctuation?

 

No, I get a steady 14.35v. I just added a 130amp 3G alternator last week and have been checking it every few days to make sure everything is running right.