My 96 has a 94 engine with the steel bolt-on inlet tube as long as you got the thermostat with the pump it will work. All PSD's were 215hp except the 97, which was 225, only difference was the programming.

As for removal, i took the belt off, clamped a vise grip over the lip of the pulley onto the flat part the belt rides on to keep It from turning. dont want to screw up the lip, and used a large channel locks to remove the fan. It Will help a lot to get a 6 point socket for the pump bolts. I think they are 9mm. They like to gall to the aluminium pumps and are super hard to break loose.

 

Hmm... Might try the channel locks before I grind down this wrench. I'm already too frustrated to be good for anything tonight. My work light finally bit the dust and I'll have to purchase a new light.

 

I agree.

And another thing that's different between the early and late pumps is the thread on the nipple for the heater return. On the short stem pumps that nipple has tapered pipe threads but on the later ones it's straight threads with an o-ring.

 

My 96 has not the cast part all the way, and till I know, its the original. here is an schematic of mine, showing the o-ring between the inlet steel tube and the WP:

 

I figure mine has been replaced, which explains the groove on the fan clutch fastener. It's possible that it was replaced with an aftermarket or incorrect water pump. I need to go under there and see if I can unearth my serial number, lol.

 

I wouldn't be too concerned with it Joseph, I'd just put the new pump with correct stat on and go..

 

That's the plan, I guess...

 

Joseph
The engine serial number is also on the label on the front of the HPOP reservoir. If the label is still there it's the white numbers in the black block.

 

Nope. Gone.

 

I just turned a cheap 1-7/8 wrench into a redneck T83T-6312-B. I just confirmed that it ought to work. Now, the question is how to keep the water pump pulley from turning while not damaging the pump pulley. The belt is currently installed, but the belt slips on the crankshaft pulley when I try to remove the fan clutch.

Also, if I am facing the windshield of the truck, and have the wrench going to the fan clutch nut from under the hood, which way do I turn the wrench to remove the nut? It's left, correct?

 

The manual says you have to turn it clockwise to tighten it. That would obviously make it counter clockwise to loosen it. How is that different than any other nut? Why put warnings all over it?

 

Yeah. Just watched a video and it appears to be your standard "Righty tighty, lefty loosey" nut.

 

Yep, left.

 

I agree, i went left with mine.

 

it would the opisit way the eng turns so with eng running the fan does not come off.And on the 94 idi eng you had to be carefull to get the right bolts in the right holes on some pumps they even sent the new top bolts so you dont take out the timeing gear not sure if these eng are like that?