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How to: 3G install for 83-92 IDIs

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  #31  
Old 04-01-2017, 09:02 PM
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I'm bumping this because I'm curious why nobody hooks the yellow voltage sense wire to the starter solenoid as it was designed to be? Is it simply because it's easier to hook it to the back of the alternator or is there some reason NOT to hook it to the solenoid?
 
  #32  
Old 04-02-2017, 12:51 AM
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The theroy behind this is the voltage at the solenoid is lower then at the alternator there by telling the voltage regulator to raise the voltage. I have found there to be less then .2 volts difference. If it makes you feel better run the line to the solenoid.
 
  #33  
Old 04-02-2017, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by wtroger
The theroy behind this is the voltage at the solenoid is lower then at the alternator there by telling the voltage regulator to raise the voltage. I have found there to be less then .2 volts difference. If it makes you feel better run the line to the solenoid.
Thanks for the reply. I didn't expect much difference, but I wasn't sure if someone had a good reason NOT to. I'll run it on mine. I figure might as well use it since it's there. I'll only need an extra 6-8" of wire given the harness I pulled.
 
  #34  
Old 04-02-2017, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by chillman88
I'm bumping this because I'm curious why nobody hooks the yellow voltage sense wire to the starter solenoid as it was designed to be? Is it simply because it's easier to hook it to the back of the alternator or is there some reason NOT to hook it to the solenoid?
I run them to the battery to account for voltage drop through the charge cable. Anything less is just being lazy.
 
  #35  
Old 04-08-2017, 10:08 AM
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To throw out some PNs to help others....

If you have a dual v-belt setup (as opposed to serpentine belt), this PN is a direct drop-in alternator (130A, large case) that will come with the right pulley and clocked perfectly: 7756-3N-2G. Supposedly, this was one of the options offered on a 92 E350 IDI. You will need a M8x1.25mm bolt for the top (25m worked well for me), and likely a corresponding fender washer to ensure the bolt head won't pull through the alternator arm. I found a brand new one on eBay for $100.

As for the wiring, I found countless folks on eBay offering very reasonably-priced harnesses and kits. Yes, you can wire it yourself, but the harness I found was about $20 shipped and had all the terminations I needed. I only had to splice the red/green wire off the regulator harness and was good to go. Other than that, you just need a length of 4 ga wire, a fuse holder that can hold a fuse rated at 175A, and the appropriate terminations.

Mike
 
  #36  
Old 04-29-2017, 11:29 PM
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first time i have seen anyone use the 175 amp fuse between the ALT. and the charge post.

any special reason why/ i mean other than the obvious to prevent meltdown. i have fuses downstream after the relay for protection .
 
  #37  
Old 04-30-2017, 10:37 AM
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Ford protects the charge wire with two 12 ga fusible links in parallel at the solenoid end of the charge wire. What amp rating that is I can't find a good source to on amp ratings for fusible links
 
  #38  
Old 05-22-2017, 07:41 AM
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I glanced through and didn't see it, sorry if I missed it but has anyone had issues with belt length?

I put one on my 91 and the belt is too long. Its a new belt but its flapping against the lower mounting bolt and wearing a ridge.

Only thing I can tell is the spacing from the lower mount bolt to the center of the pulley is shorter than the old alternator.


 

Last edited by chillman88; 05-22-2017 at 09:02 AM. Reason: Added picture
  #39  
Old 06-03-2017, 10:28 PM
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Working on this swap on my truck now. A junkyard alternator was cheaper than a new voltage regulator.
 
  #40  
Old 07-08-2017, 12:18 AM
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@whiteboyslo
I was wondering which pigtail you used with the 7756-3N-2G alternator? I just purchased one, shipped to my door. I also got the 4 gauge wire and 175 amp fuse with holder but I was not sure which pigtail to order.
 
  #41  
Old 07-08-2017, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob Taylor
@whiteboyslo
I was wondering which pigtail you used with the 7756-3N-2G alternator? I just purchased one, shipped to my door. I also got the 4 gauge wire and 175 amp fuse with holder but I was not sure which pigtail to order.
I cant remember which one exactly, but it was something like this:
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/321881681242

Red wire goes to green wire. I think I found another kit that came with this AND the bit of 4ga wire and mega fuse holder you'll need, but I can't remember now. When i did the job, I also removed the entire harness from the truck so I could strip out everything I didn't need, then dressed it back up real nice before I put it back. Didn't take long, and I'm glad I did it. Gives the job a nice clean look.

Mike
 
  #42  
Old 12-27-2017, 07:41 AM
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this post needs the pictures updated.... Hard to follow without the pics
 
  #43  
Old 01-03-2018, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by rangernut09011980
this post needs the pictures updated.... Hard to follow without the pics
I re-wrote this guide with new pictures on a different part of the forum. Shameless plug herre:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...idi-guide.html
 
  #44  
Old 01-03-2018, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rangernut09011980
this post needs the pictures updated.... Hard to follow without the pics


That`s the problem when people put up a good thread with pictures linked
from their Photo Bucked acct. then delete the account. everything is gone.
Kind of makes the thread useless when doing a search. I see this over and over
here on this forum and others.


Charlie
 
  #45  
Old 01-03-2018, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by MR KROGOTH
I re-wrote this guide with new pictures on a different part of the forum. Shameless plug herre:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...idi-guide.html


Thank you for the link, great pictures and detailed how to.


Charlie
 


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