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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

7.3 thermostat

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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 12:09 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
The dieselsite one is for the SD trucks, and is waaaay shorter than ours. You'd need a different top hose for sure.

This one: Thermostat Housing Ring is sold by Strictly Diesel, a supporter of many of the diesel forums.
I bought the housing ring on Ebay.. If you go w a superduty rad hose around the serp belt I believe u can use the short billet piece...
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 01:40 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by coreyallan01
I bought the housing ring on Ebay.. If you go w a superduty rad hose around the serp belt I believe u can use the short billet piece...
Where do I get the billet aluminum thermostat housing?

http://www.dieselsite.com/blackbille...athousing.aspx

Dieselsite.com is the only source?

What year / part number hose do I ask for a super duty rad hose to work on my Cali 97 Ford?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2014 | 07:01 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by brown435
Where do I get the billet aluminum thermostat housing?

http://www.dieselsite.com/blackbille...athousing.aspx

Dieselsite.com is the only source?

What year / part number hose do I ask for a super duty rad hose to work on my Cali 97 Ford?
I dunno if Dieselsite is the only source.. As for the radiator hose, just google obs 7.3 radiator hose mod or obs 7.3 superduty radiator hose mod...
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 11:50 AM
  #34  
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Ordered an aluminum thermostat housing from Dieselsite



Black Billet Aluminum Thermostat Housing


BLBATH 1 $46.85 $46.85

Subtotal: $46.85
Shipping & Handling: $8.95
Tax: $0.00

Order Total: $55.80



They sell an rubber hose for around $75 to make up for the shorter Thermostat Housing tube BUT will be looking around for a hose from anyone since they are out of stock.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 04:57 PM
  #35  
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I run the 203 myself. From what I had heard, the engine fires a little better because of the increased combustion chamber temps.

By the way, if you guys want to get the little degree symbol, hold your ALT key down and on the number pad, hit 167. Note that it doesn't work on the numbers above your QWERTY keys, it only works on the number pad.

This is where we start seeing posts of degree symbols and posters celebrating... ;-)
 
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Old Jan 13, 2014 | 05:47 PM
  #36  
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Oh, lººk at that.....
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 01:31 AM
  #37  
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Rec'd
Black Billet Aluminum Thermostat Housing
from dieselsite.com with gasket.

It is anodized black so looks very nice.

Now to find a hose a little longer than stock for a 97

here is discussion here about a "preferred" hose for 1999-2003 http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...r-hose-139503/

Ford PN F81Z-8260-CA Found this on Ebay for $26 delivered

9066 | Napa $13.59
22433 | Gates Found this on Ebay for $13 delivered and Amazon 13.72 delivered


NAPA SPECS ON HOSE

Centerline Length (in) : 25"

Hose I.D. (in) : 1.72"

Hose Steel Coil : No

I.D. 1 (in) : 1.72"

Includes Spring : No

Length (Inches) : 25"

Type : Molded Coolant Hose

Centerline Length (mm) : 635 mm

I.D. (Inches) : 1.72"

I.D. 1 (mm) : 44 mm
__________________
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 02:02 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by coreyallan01
I bought the housing ring on Ebay.. If you go w a superduty rad hose around the serp belt I believe u can use the short billet piece...

Is this the hose?


Now to find a hose a little longer than stock for a 97

here is discussion here about a "preferred" hose for 1999-2003 Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

Ford PN F81Z-8260-CA Found this on Ebay for $26 delivered

9066 | Napa $13.59
22433 | Gates Found this on Ebay for $13 delivered and Amazon 13.72 delivered


NAPA SPECS ON HOSE

Centerline Length (in) : 25"

Hose I.D. (in) : 1.72"

Hose Steel Coil : No

I.D. 1 (in) : 1.72"

Includes Spring : No

Length (Inches) : 25"

Type : Molded Coolant Hose

Centerline Length (mm) : 635 mm

I.D. (Inches) : 1.72"

I.D. 1 (mm) : 44 mm
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 01:04 PM
  #39  
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Coolant .... Oh boy

All I know is the green stuff ... correct?


SCAs SHOULD be used in the old IDI 7.3s like my '89 because of potential compatibility issues with the o-rings on the oil cooler & front cover seals. From what I've read, the newer 7.3s & 6.0s don't have the THIN cylinder walls which contributed to the cavitation problems in the first place(mainly on the IDI motors).


 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 01:27 PM
  #40  
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You need the anti-cavitation additive. Either buy it and add it to the plain "green" coolant, or buy FleetCharge (second to last one in the second section of that document, which is "conventional" (not extended life) anti-freeze with the SCA added and is dyed pink.

Edit - sorry - sometimes they refer to the color as "fuschia"; who knew?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 02:11 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
You need the anti-cavitation additive. Either buy it and add it to the plain "green" coolant, or buy FleetCharge (second to last one in the second section of that document, which is "conventional" (not extended life) anti-freeze with the SCA added and is dyed pink.

Edit - sorry - sometimes they refer to the color as "fuschia"; who knew?
So is the anti-cavitaion additive stuff like wetter wet or LUBEGARD KOOL-IT ENGINE COOLANT TREATMENT ???
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 02:40 PM
  #42  
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It's neither. It's specifically for diesel engines. Here's a half-gallon product, should be enough for our cooling systems: Coolant 1/2 gallon addative, DCA65L, Fleetguard Cummins - Ryder Fleet Products . Used to be waaay cheaper; it's gone up so much in price that it's now just about as cost-effective to use something like the FleetCharge. Advance Auto is one of the few FLAPS that carry FleetCharge. If a location near you carries it, you can order it online for store pickup, usu. $15-16 a a gallon, and there's always a 20% off coupon code for AAP to be found, takes it down to aprx. $12 / gallon.

Another option is to install a coolant filter base, and use a filter that's pre-charged with SCA.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 02:45 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by madpogue
It's neither. It's specifically for diesel engines. Here's a half-gallon product, should be enough for our cooling systems: Coolant 1/2 gallon addative, DCA65L, Fleetguard Cummins - Ryder Fleet Products . Used to be waaay cheaper; it's gone up so much in price that it's now just about as cost-effective to use something like the FleetCharge. Advance Auto is one of the few FLAPS that carry FleetCharge. If a location near you carries it, you can order it online for store pickup, usu. $15-16 a a gallon, and there's always a 20% off coupon code for AAP to be found, takes it down to aprx. $12 / gallon.

Another option is to install a coolant filter base, and use a filter that's pre-charged with SCA.

Okay thank you

Then, this is it per PEAK technician

PEAK COMMERCIAL & INDUSTRIAL | FLEET CHARGE | HEAVY DUTY COOLANT/ANTIFREEZE | PRODUCT DETAILS
 
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 05:02 PM
  #44  
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That's the stuff.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 01:48 AM
  #45  
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Found this "Old" discussion on pre 2002 7.3 diesels

There are two basic types of supplemental coolant additive (SCA). For simplicity, let's call them the Ford type and the Chevy type. Pencool makes the Chevy type. Fleetguard (Cummins) makes the Ford type.

The two types are not the same chemical, so shouldn't be mixed. But they both seem to do the job of preventing damage from cavitation.

So no, you cannot simply add Pencool instead of FW-16 to your Ford cooling system to increase the SCA level. Because nobody makes a test strip to test the resulting mess in your radiator.

But yes, you can use the Chevy type of SCA, PROVIDED you get every drop of the old coolant out of the cooling system before you refill with new antifreeze and Pencool and distilled water.

The problem with changing over to the different type SCA is that if you don't get every drop of the old stuff out of your cooling system, nobody makes a test strip for the mixture of the Ford and Chevy type SCA. The Ford type of test strips (Fleetguard 3-way coolant test strips) will not work to test either the Pencool or a mixture of Pencool and FW-16. The Pencool test strips will not work to test either the FW-16 or a mixture of Pencool and FW-16.

Your cooling systems holds about 7 gallons of coolant. Only 5 gallons will drain when you drain the radiator. Another gallon will drain from the block when you remove both block plugs. But that leaves a gallon in there that's not going to drain no matter how much hollering and screaming you do.

So the only easy way to get it all out is to fill up with water, drive until the thermostat opens and the water circulates, then drain it again. Repete this fill, drive, and drain procedures several times. At least 4 times if you pull both block plugs each time. About 8 to 10 times if you don't pull the block plugs.

Another way if you don't have hard water in your tap water supply is to remove the thermostat and install a Prestone-type backflush connection in a heater hose. Then turn on the water and let the engine idle at high idle with the radiator drain open until the water that comes out is clear - no green tint in it.

Then drain the radiator and both block plugs, and button it back up. Pour in 3.5 gallons of antifreeze, the proper amount of SCA to treat 7 gallons of coolant, then top off with distilled water.
 
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