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put some trans pan magnets in the pan and use locktite on the cam bolt. smear some permatex around the edge on the inside of the cam plug in the back of the block and make double sure the head gaskets are oriented to the front properly. if it's an auto trans make sure the converter is free before you put the nuts on, if it's tight the converter is not in all the way and will destroy the pump in 5 seconds. take your time, double check your rods, main caps for orientation and tightness. have fun and don't drop the block on yourself!
What grclark said plus take it slow, keep it clean, double check your torque settings & sequences and clearances. Make sure you clean the surfaces of the block & rod surfaces where the bearing inserts mount well. Use some solvent or lacquer thinner before you install the bearing inserts.
Dial the cam in if you have access to a degree wheel and dial indicator. Verify the timing mark on the balancer with the piston TDC, they can slip. Check your bearing clearances with plasti-gage, especially if you bought a mail order crank. Seal the rear main cap parting line with silicone. Apply moly lube on crank journals and cam lobes. Set the thrust bearing before tightening the center main cap. Tighten rod bolts after installing both rods on the journal. Remember to break the cam in properly. Know where a fire extinguisher is just in case.
When you check the rod clearances, if you use plastigage make sure the rods do not twist at all, if they do it can screw up the measurement and make the bearings look tighter than they are.
When installing pistons get a old coffe can fill with oil and dip pistons being sure to get oil on wrist pin. Also dont forget to off set wrings. Get a couple of old spark plug boots to put over rod bolts so you want nick crank.Soak lifters in oil and pump with push rod to get air out.Prime oil pump and make sure it pumps be fore installing.Using old distributor shaft and drill pre oil engine before starting.Hope this helps good luck have fun Wes
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