When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you are still talking about the expy, there is one bolt you have to remove from the center section behind the diff cover, I believe it is 10 mm if I remember right. Then you have to slide out the big center pin in the centersection. After that push the axle shafts all the way in toward the other side and pull out the c clip that will become visible. After that you are free to pull the shaft out. Just support it the whole way out so you don't damage the axle seal. It sounds harder then it really is. It takes all of 5 min once you get going. I hope I helped you out.
aaa thank you I kind of figure that i just wanted reasuring,that the whole inside would not have to come all apart,lol,ya the axle seals have to be change too so i will not have to worried about them being damage,thank you very much,would you know where just to get diagrams...
Your best bet would to do some research online. If that fails a chiltons manual, or you will have to get a set of factory manuals on a cd or look on eBay for a set of books.
old thread, need to identify my rear end. This is on the tag on the diff:
S 415 B
L 30 102 0B29
Any idea ?
There is another tag that says use 75w140 only.
edit: just noticed this isn't the excursion thread. This is on an excursion. 2000, 2wd
edit2: according to the axle codes id page it is a 4.30 10.50 axle, code L (limited slip?) full float.
old thread, need to identify my rear end. This is on the tag on the diff:
S 415 B
L 30 102 0B29
Any idea ?
There is another tag that says use 75w140 only.
edit: just noticed this isn't the excursion thread. This is on an excursion. 2000, 2wd
edit2: according to the axle codes id page it is a 4.30 10.50 axle, code L (limited slip?) full float.
It appears that there is a digit missing just before the L on the second line. Look closely and see if there is a 4 in front of the L. If so, then 4L30 would be a locking 4.30 axle.
I have an 86 Ranger 2x4 my axle code on the door tag is 82, the tag on the dif housing has S394C. Can't seem to figure this one out, 82 is not in the list above.???
I have an 86 Ranger 2x4 my axle code on the door tag is 82, the tag on the dif housing has S394C. Can't seem to figure this one out, 82 is not in the list above.???
Probably because that isn't a complete listing of Ranger axle codes, just like it wasn't a complete listing of Expedition codes. 82 is 7.5" open, 3.08 gears.
Probably because that isn't a complete listing of Ranger axle codes, just like it wasn't a complete listing of Expedition codes. 82 is 7.5" open, 3.08 gears.
Thanks for the fast reply, that would explain why it's sooo tall geared and gutless. Can't even start out on a steep grade without sliding the clutch. It blew up on the freeway,(the Rear-end)and I'm looking to replace with lower gears, maybe 3.73. I have a 5 speed tranny and the 2.3 mfi. Thanks again for the info!
I have 2004 F150 2wd, so this means I have only 1 wheel that spins aka powers my drive? I could've sworn when I was going thru loose dirt/mud that both wheels were spinning. I'm confused since I dont have limited slip dif. Anyone explain??
19 — 3.55 non-limited slip (F-150)
I have 2004 F150 2wd, so this means I have only 1 wheel that spins aka powers my drive? I could've sworn when I was going thru loose dirt/mud that both wheels were spinning. I'm confused since I dont have limited slip dif. Anyone explain??
19 — 3.55 non-limited slip (F-150)
(If you want help, keep the font readable or you will likely get passed over.)
Not necessarily. 2WD models can have Trac-Lok, but it’s not common aside from 5.4L trucks, if any.
The funny thing about open axles is that the wheel without traction will spin. Makes sense in your situation. Put one of those wheels on solid ground and you’re about to get stuck.