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Ok, i know for a fact that my choke dosent work
But could that be the problem why the engine starts up really rough all the time?
i mean, the engine idlenig at 600 rpm right now, and when the engines warm i shut it off and turn it on right away and it idels like crap at 300 rpm?
Could me not having a pcv system be the problem?
Or is it that i have vaccume leaks up the butt?
Could timing also be a probblem?(its at 8*)
The engine runs good but its just when it starts really rough
Here is a pic of the engine
Last edited by joel79ford; Apr 17, 2012 at 11:28 AM.
Reason: typo
I would advance the timing a little anyway and see what happens. 10deg or so shouldnt be a killer. What sort of choke, mechanical or auto? it may be working a little better than you think but not how you want. That though doesnt explain why it rubs rough after you shut it down and restart. There is nothing else touching the throttle linkage? There was a lot of discussion on vac leaks on a previous thread and also timing.
Doesnt sound like a fuel pump otherwise it would be running like junk all the time and wouldnt be running at all the more you tried to give it. Vac gauge can be tee'd in to the tree at the back of the inlet manifold behind the carby. Try the engine start trick around the manifold first just be careful as posted. I would also hook the PCV up although i dont believe that has anything to do with your problem at present. I would also adjust your idle up a little, what does it say on the timing decal on the fender? I would adjust your timing as well but again that should be on the decal. There is a couple of things to try here so good lick.
Before i hooked it up, the engine was warm it had ben running about 10 min
I shut off the engine, quickly slipped the vaccum gauge on, then turned on my engine, then of cource it started up like crap and it marked on the gauge (15)
so i revved the engine to about 1k rpm then it marked right in the center of (20)
and it stayed there perfectly, it did not move at all
SO what now? Its marking fine on the gauge, should i still mess with my timing?
I haven't done the spray around the carb yet
I couldn't find a place to hook the gauge on the back of the Carb
so I hooked it up on the front of the Carb where there is 3 lines by where the firing order is located at
is that OK?
You've posted that it is ok and rouns rough after a restart. See what it is doing when it is running fine. Doesn't reall matter about the vac hook up as long as it from the manifold and NOT from a port on the carby itself.
That is ported vac and is what the dizzy should be hooked to. It is not the same as manifold pressure at all.
Is there a decal on the fender at all or maybe the firewall that mentions timing and idle speed?
My decal says 8deg at 650 rpm with the auto in drive and the manual in neutral if you have one of those instead. It also says to make sure the dizzy vac hose to the carby is removed and capped.
Are you 100 % sure that the choke flap in the carby if not working isn't moving and blocking the inlet in anyway?
Does you vehicle have aircon?
Ok, i know for a fact that my choke dosent work
But could that be the problem why the engine starts up really rough all the time?
i mean, the engine idlenig at 600 rpm right now, and when the engines warm i shut it off and turn it on right away and it idels like crap at 300 rpm?
Could me not having a pcv system be the problem?
Or is it that i have vaccume leaks up the butt?
Could timing also be a probblem?(its at 8*)
The engine runs good but its just when it starts really rough
Here is a pic of the engine
Well, when it running there is a Ticking noise coming from the left vaulve cover
Oh, and my engine is exactly at 8* and idles at 650 rpm right now
And no my truck only has heater
No smog is on the engine what so ever, I do however plan to get a pcv system
hey guys iv got update on my truck
my auto teacher took a look at at, and we did the sray around carb/intake/heades test
No vaccume leakes at alll
He said that my check vaulve in my carb is causing the problem?
Also that my fuel pump could be causing this problem as well
He also recommend me removing the egr plate since it will not be in use
and to go to the local recking yard and find a 351/400 withought the egr plate
Uhm no, just the spacer plate
I'm not sure what year/trucks/cars i should look for though
Some 302 that have my same carb should have the same spacer as mine right?
Hey um, on the way home from school, i noticed my truck had a Whinny noise from the top of the engine< around the intake/carb area?
At first i thought it was my power steering since it needed some fluid
So i cut the engine and added the fluid, but the whining was still there?
Could i have a vacuum leak?