Lower ball joint question?
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Lower ball joint question?
I'm helping a friend with his 99 2wd ranger that has a real bad sqawk/squeel from the front right ball joint when going over any kinda bump or when steering. From the looks of it its just a tollerance press in fit right? What is the best way to get the old one out and the new one in? Can this be done with a screw press or does it need to be done by a shop with a hydraullic press? I can get the part pretty cheap and it looks like a better one that allows for grease application, I just never liked press fit stuff as I do not have access to a hydraulic press. Any tricks or do-it-yourself advise would be appreciated. I managed ok rebuilding the press in bushings and ball joint on my grand am but that was my own car and if i messed it up I just got to kick myself. when working on someone elses car I like to know its going to work before i start. 
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Randolph, NJ
Lower ball joint question?
I'm about to do the same thing on my truck (plus tie rods and bushings). I'd like to know as well, but I am hoping I can just use a screw type as I don't have a hydraulic press either.
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Lower ball joint question?
Ford recommends replacing the whole assy. Upper or lower control arm assy with the balljoint included. Ford and most autoparts supply stores only sell you the whole assy. I have found only one store that will actually sell you the balljoint and that is http://www.oreillyauto.com/index.html
Moog balljoint partnumbers are uppers are K8738 and the lowers are K8771T
They are press in so you need a press to remove and install
Moog balljoint partnumbers are uppers are K8738 and the lowers are K8771T
They are press in so you need a press to remove and install
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 943
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From: Randolph, NJ
Lower ball joint question?
What's funny though is that when I asked for parts, I found some inequities that no one has been able to answer.
For my 98:
Ford wants to sell you the whole control arms, as you say.
Mazda will sell you the lower ball joints alone, the uppers only as a whole piece.
NAPA will sell you replacement upper and lower ball joints for a 98 Mazda (no arms).
Autozone is the same way as NAPA, only cheaper (and Perfect Circle parts instead of NAPA Chassis).
Do Ford and Mazda just assume that you'll never be able to get the joints out of the arms with any sort of regular force?
For my 98:
Ford wants to sell you the whole control arms, as you say.
Mazda will sell you the lower ball joints alone, the uppers only as a whole piece.
NAPA will sell you replacement upper and lower ball joints for a 98 Mazda (no arms).
Autozone is the same way as NAPA, only cheaper (and Perfect Circle parts instead of NAPA Chassis).
Do Ford and Mazda just assume that you'll never be able to get the joints out of the arms with any sort of regular force?
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Joined: Feb 2001
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Lower ball joint question?
Originally posted by PSKSAM2
What's funny though is that when I asked for parts, I found some inequities that no one has been able to answer.
For my 98:
Ford wants to sell you the whole control arms, as you say.
Mazda will sell you the lower ball joints alone, the uppers only as a whole piece.
Even though Ford and Mazda are basically the same truck and use the same parts that doesn't mean you can buy the same parts from Ford and Mazda. We are talking about 2 different company's and they both have their own way of fixing and selling parts.
NAPA will sell you replacement upper and lower ball joints for a 98 Mazda (no arms).
Autozone is the same way as NAPA, only cheaper (and Perfect Circle parts instead of NAPA Chassis).
same answer from above applies to this
Do Ford and Mazda just assume that you'll never be able to get the joints out of the arms with any sort of regular force?
I have had the ford balljoints fall out on the 98+ rangers. That's probably why ford recommends replacing the whole assy. I have also heard of other people complain about the ford balljoints on the 98+ rangers being lose and falling off of the control arm.
What's funny though is that when I asked for parts, I found some inequities that no one has been able to answer.
For my 98:
Ford wants to sell you the whole control arms, as you say.
Mazda will sell you the lower ball joints alone, the uppers only as a whole piece.
Even though Ford and Mazda are basically the same truck and use the same parts that doesn't mean you can buy the same parts from Ford and Mazda. We are talking about 2 different company's and they both have their own way of fixing and selling parts.
NAPA will sell you replacement upper and lower ball joints for a 98 Mazda (no arms).
Autozone is the same way as NAPA, only cheaper (and Perfect Circle parts instead of NAPA Chassis).
same answer from above applies to this
Do Ford and Mazda just assume that you'll never be able to get the joints out of the arms with any sort of regular force?
I have had the ford balljoints fall out on the 98+ rangers. That's probably why ford recommends replacing the whole assy. I have also heard of other people complain about the ford balljoints on the 98+ rangers being lose and falling off of the control arm.
And besides I am talking about a 2wd. The original poster has a 2wd and you have a 4x4. My comments above are only aimed at the guy with the 2wd. I have no idea about the 4x4
Last edited by greenpus; May 1, 2003 at 02:07 PM.
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Lower ball joint question?
Thanks for all your input, anyone have sugestions as to what to use in pressing them out. I can rent a screw type ball joint compression tool, kinda like a glorified C-clamp, but its made for a different operation than pressing the assebly into the arm. I just dont know if that thing will generate enough force. Keep info comming, if i get a solid sugestion i'll prolly rip into it this weekend.
Thanks again,
Dan
Thanks again,
Dan
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Lower ball joint question?
This was a real pain. I've never seen so much rust on a 99 vehicle. Without an impact wrench it would have been impossible. With that said other than the rust it was a fairly simple job. Used a ball joint installation/removal tool from autozone (oversized c-clamp with a few attahments) turned by a 1/2 inch impact wrench and it came out/in without a problem. New part from autozone cost 39 dollars and had a grease nipple so it looks like an improvement over stock. If any one has questions about how to do a similar job I'm more than willing to answer questions about this project. Just shoot me an email.
DYanik@pop3.utoledo.edu
Thanks to those who posted info for me above.
Dan
DYanik@pop3.utoledo.edu
Thanks to those who posted info for me above.
Dan
Last edited by Ken00; May 5, 2003 at 03:54 PM.
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