Okay fine a 351 Windsor then. But I still need to know what radiator?

 

I have read that the Windsor is hard to start when it's hot.

 

 

Well, no question, you should go with a small block Chevy, I heard they are cheaper and more powerful.

 

No I read it on the mustang forums

 

That's just crazy. I can't understand why someone would say that.

 

Look at the average age and skill level on those sites. There are some smart guys but most are teenagers who don't know what a carb is, let alone how to start a car with one. God knows what mods they've done to them.

NtShade, your best play is to go to the boneyard and see what the best engine they have is. By the time the hulks get to U-Pull-It's, it's likely none of them has all the brackets, intake, carb, exhaust manifolds, I've even seen them with the timing set removed, and no lifters. They are not exactly the cream of the crop by the time they get that far down the food chain.

 

I will look around once I get there. It's raining today with Thunderstroms predicted, so no go today. I know how to tell if the motor is all there. And motor mounts etc. If I start to pull one and it's not all there someone will lose a head. Tired of playing, want my truck running.

 

If it's worth anything to ya I got my aluminum radiator off E-bay from a radiator shop in WI. Costed just a hair over $200 shipped to the door. Something to keep in mind as I'm sure they offer one for your truck.

I know Ford smallblocks like the back of my hand and am familiar with Clevelands too. You need to be careful with the Clevelands as some were of the high compression variety (mainly the 4bbl engines) and required premium fuel just to keep it from pinging like a diesel. The 2bbl Clevelands are pigs (much lower compression) and have as much as if not less than a comparable 302. I have a '69 F100 that I put a 351W into. I've pulled a car trailer all over hell and back with it and it does great. Pulled 14k worth of crap and a car on the car trailer from NM to WA with it... pulled the hills decently, and this was with cruddy 2.47 rear gears (later changed to 3.00s) It's no powerhouse like a bigblock but it will do the job just fine. A couple years ago i replaced the 1st 351W with another (had over 250k on the 1st engine) The second 351W was essentially a stock '84 engine that I put early 302 heads on to boost the compression to a little over 9:1. I put a real mild 214/224 @.050 cam in it, performer intake, Carter 625 carb on it, used '69 mustang exh manifolds(better flow design) and 2.25" dual exhaust. With 3.00 gears it has no problems lighting off the 265/70-15s and pulls a trailer with out an ounce of trouble. Gets an easy 15mpg all day long. Keep in mind that my '69 is heavier at 4000 to 4500 lbs. too, much heavier than your truck.
As for the hot starts... the retard probably doesn't have the engine grounded to the frame and body properly. I've had mine at over 200 degrees on the mech. gauge, hit the starter and it'll fire right up. Proper size battery and cables along with good grounds and you won't have any troubles. On cold winter days 20-30 degrees, I can jump it it, fire it up throw it in gear and go right down the road. No craziness at all.... of course I have the electric choke dialed in well.I've noticed that some of these nimrods out there are telling people to drill out steam holes in the block or heads to aid in cooling. Don't do it. I did just to see if it would help and it actually made it worse. I believe it messes up the water's path and impedes the flow.

Do what you want, it's your truck. Just thought I'd share that with you.

 

Thank you. I have decided to go with a Windsor from a 1978 Cougar they have Pipes U pull it. I will be sure to make sure it is all there before I pull it.

 

Sounds good. Have them perform a compression check to it to make sure you're gettin something good and not a worn out original. Expect to see numbers in the 120s or 130s. If they are larger, that's great. And make sure there is not any more than a 10 psi difference between any of the cylinders. Any less than 120, I'd pass on it... spells 'rebuild' in the very near future. Oil pressure(if it can be ran) anywhere from 20-40psi is ok. Less than 20, walk away.
If all checks out, grab all the front bracketry that you can, pullies, power steering, the whole shebang even if you don't have power steering now, it will be handy later if you do. This engine will have a dedicated power steering pump, meaning you will need it in able to operate the waterpump. Don't sweat that, I can point you in the right direction to change the pullies and brackets to run just an alternator and water pump if need be.

 

For $188 I'd be amazed if they'd even pull the plugs for you. These have to be core motors.

 

I can pull the plugs and whatever else it needs

 

Hey Ntshade,
Over here in Austin - We run a 351W in our 1950 F1. Haven't noticed
any negative issues with this engine - starts just fine. We went with an electric fan & it stays just above 180 all day long. I think you'll be happy - the highway gas mileage isn't too bad either.

The guys are right about getting the pulley's & brackets - You can spend a lot of time & money going back & searching for stuff that will fit.
Good luck over there! A transmission cooler to sit right in front of your radiator is nice to have as well especially if you'll be towing.

Ben in Austin

 

Yeah I'm having reservations about this operation. However, some yards look at all this stuff as scrap weight and to them it doesn't matter what condition it is. Because of that, most engines there are probably all priced about the same... according to their scrap weight/value. Any 'true' reputable salvage yard would have already done compression/oil press checks, have the engine pulled, tagged and sittin on a pallet if they were any good. Smaller and/or privately owned yards are different wheras they will sometimes still be in a car and generally are able to be fired from a jerry can and a battery.
The corporate owned yards are a bit different. If the engine is in the car, generally it's a core as there was something wrong with it and its just for parts. You'll find a hole punched in the oil pan and oil filter and probably matching ones in the tranny pan and gas tank to get all the fluids out the lazy way and then the car is tossed out into the yard only to be cycled out anywhere from 90 days to 6 months. If it had a good engine, usually they are pulled, tagged and on a pallet inside a building. These yards don't give a rats a$$ what it is, as it's all scale weight to them. That why most the corporate outfits are referred to as 'Recyclers'. U-Pull-Its, LKQs, Pick-A-Parts, Pick-N-Pulls.... all the same.. corporate recyclers.