This may sound like a dumb question, but how do you remove the drum on the rear of an 86 f250 4x4? I beat it pretty good and cracked it, now it's gotta come off. I'm battling the soft pedal, hardly any brakes syndrome and need to see if I need rear shoes or not. Any other truck with drums would come right off with a couple taps of a hammer

 

It will depend on the axle, but you may need to remove the axles themselves and then a big nut & bearings inside of there.

 

If the drums are worn enough to have created a ridge you might have to back off the shoes enough to get them off also.

 

Its a full float rear end, but the drums look different than my 89 and 95.

I'm assuming it's the d70 rather than the sterling. What's the procedure to get those o axles out? Seems like a lot of Ford engineering to change some freaking brake shoes....

 

Kedwinh is right,you'll have to back off on the brake adjuster to retract the shoes.The drum should then come off like any other.My 10.25 full float sterling was stubborn so I poppd out the rubber from the adjuster access slot,backed the shoes off and the drum slid off.I forget which way I had to turn it,but if it starts to expand the shoes just go back the other way.

 

Not sure if it will help you but I found it very Informative.

A Boy and his Jeep » Dana 60/70 Rear Drums

 

You have to take axle cover bolts and cover off and then there is a rounded hex nut that has to be removed like ctubutis was saying. If you dont have the size sears sells them the cheapest i found and most parts stores want too much to order them. Depending on how its set up there may be the retaining bolt with another bolt to lock it in there or if it's one bolt they used either a star looking washer that needs to be bent back to let the nut spin or if it's like mine it has a plastic centered nut that little locking shims hook into. Trust me the little clips are hard to find anymore but when you take that off the axle slides out and you pull the bearings and check them as well. Once that's out back the brakes off through the adjustment hole in the inner side and pull the drum off.

It can be a pain to do the first time but once you get it once you'll never have a problem. I would recommend doing everything you want to in there while it's off so you don't have to do it several times. Also have your wheel high so she doesn't leak gear oil out while your in there. Good luck!

 

Good link forgot about that one. That explains it all there. You posted it while I was typing.

 

Ehh... I'll put the front pads on for now and see how they feel. It's just a mud truck, never sees the road. If it needs it I'll pull it apart. Thanks for all the help, I'll refer back to this if I ever need to do a brake job for someone

 

Well thats completely different from the full floating 10.25 sterling!I like the simplicity of the sterling but I hate having to readjust the brakes every few months.

 

Yup, sure is....

Full-floating Dana....

Thanks to 81oneton400 for posting that link. Pictures are way helpful sometimes.

 

Another inormative link for the favorites just in case I decide to do a diff swap.

 

I put the pads on and got it put all back together and it stops a little better than before. I don't think the rear are doing anything because this stock 351w will spin these big 39's with 4.10 gearseasily when power braked. Looks like ill be tearing into it

 

It doesn't look too difficult BRay 09.I think that if you follow the procedure in the LINK you'll be fine.

 

I didn't think it looked difficult, just time consuming and I wanted to get out and play ASAP. But I'll spend the extra cash and do it safely