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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 10:10 AM
  #31  
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It'll take more than a bad ignition switch to get me out of this truck haha. Being my first F150, I've actually gotten quite attached to the truck haha.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 10:14 AM
  #32  
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I don't remember everything that's going on here, but....

Originally Posted by jerd_hambone
I went to start it so I could put it on ramps and do an oil change, and.... Nothing. No spark from the coil.
This, to me, is confusing...

"Nothing" to me means no cab power, no headlights, obviously no starter motor action.

But, then you clarify with "no spark from the coil" which you then want to blame the ignition switch just as a guess, this throws up red flags everywhere in my mind.

But, again, I don't remember everything that's going on here.....
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 11:14 AM
  #33  
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Truck was having problems starting, ignition switch being tough to turn and sticking in the "start" position. A few people suggested my ignition switch may have been on its way out.

Sorry boss, I should have been clearer, by nothing, I meant it just cranks cranks cranks and no fire. Definitely getting fuel, but no spark from the coil. Literally, there is zero activity at the coil.

So being that the switch has already been suggested, I assumed it was that. May also be the coil, I suppose.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 11:59 AM
  #34  
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Could be a few things....

The pickup mechanism in the distributor instructs the module when to fire the coil.

The coil should get full battery voltage in START but half that in RUN, this is dictated by the presence of an inline ballast resistor.

Someplace out here there are some pretty decent images of the wiring schematic for this stuff, maybe Kevin or somebody knows offhand.

Anyhow... I would test for voltage at the coil in both START and RUN - two different circuits provide power during those two different times.

This is a great time to check your wiring in that general area, too.

Kevin likes his EVTMs........ Kevin?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 12:14 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
Could be a few things....

The pickup mechanism in the distributor instructs the module when to fire the coil.

The coil should get full battery voltage in START but half that in RUN, this is dictated by the presence of an inline ballast resistor.

Someplace out here there are some pretty decent images of the wiring schematic for this stuff, maybe Kevin or somebody knows offhand.

Anyhow... I would test for voltage at the coil in both START and RUN - two different circuits provide power during those two different times.

This is a great time to check your wiring in that general area, too.

Kevin likes his EVTMs........ Kevin?
In addition, there is a dead spot between Start and Run, at least on the switch in Dad's truck, where no juice goes to the coil. Apparently the spring should pull it back from Start to Run and go over the dead spot quickly. However, if the switch is sticking it is easy to bring it back to the dead spot such that the engine starts and then dies. I did that several times earlier this week until I realized what was happening and brought the switch back into Run.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 12:22 PM
  #36  
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So things to check:

Voltage at coil in run and start
Wiring in the general area

I can hopefully get all this done tomorrow, I'll have phone a buddy, I don't have the tools haha
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 12:41 PM
  #37  
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Gary brings up an excellent point, try jiggling the switch towards yourself if it seems like it starts in START but fails to continue in RUN.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 12:54 PM
  #38  
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It won't start at all.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 01:13 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by jerd_hambone
It won't start at all.
I'm doubting the switch would fail in both the Start and Run positions at the same time. I think you may have a problem in the wiring at a point common to both the Start and Run circuits.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 01:21 PM
  #40  
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I'm thinking the running position was working fine, considering after it started the idle was fine, never had any misses or any signs of lost spark, driving or idling.

It actually started and ran a few hours before the spark plug change. Idle was fine, throttle was fine. I was low on gas, so I shut it off, filled my gas can, came back, added the gas, then no start.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 03:22 PM
  #41  
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This is the ingnition system out of the EVTM....Like Chris and Gary said, I would test the coil and module to make sure they are getting power in run. Coil could still be getting power but if module is not...no spark. Or the vicsa versa.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 05:33 PM
  #42  
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Thank you, Kevin.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 08:17 PM
  #43  
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Problem fixed!

And I feel like a moron. One of the plugs coming off the coil is broken and had wiggled its way to the point of zero contact, but still appearing connected.

Pushed it in, and it fired right up. No more cold start problem.

Thanks for all the suggestions, and for putting up with my dull mind haha.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 10:04 PM
  #44  
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All good!!! Glad it was something simple....and cheap!!
 
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Old Apr 20, 2012 | 10:52 PM
  #45  
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Yes, glad it is running and an easy fix. That's the best kind.
 
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