Thank you!!

 

Will it prime itself or can I add to it? That would explain the no start and DTC...

 

It will eventually fill itself, you can fill it as well for quicker prime.

 

yes you should fill it . it should be an inch down from the top. It also sounds like it ran out of fuel and has air in the lines. So now we need to find out why or if there is. That is how my truck sounded when I ran it out once.

 

take off the cap for the fuel filter have somebody in the truck turn the key on really quick to see if there's any fuel filling the filter bowl

 

Gentlemen as always thank y'all for the input, heading home here shortly to go at it some more...

 

I'm guessing a bad injector solenoid. Sounds like you're only running on half the cylinders. Could be IDM or wiring related, but I'll guess solenoid first.

If it runs long by giving it a little of the go pedal to get one side hot, then you can diagnose the cold side. Otherwise you get to test both sides. Grab your trusty ohm meter and check the 3rd, 4th, 6th & 7th pin on the connector against the 5th center pin and write down the reading for each injector. When a solenoid goes bad, it often will still read withing spec, but it will be different from the other injectors. The one I diagnosed with a bad solenoid was about 0.5 ohms different from the other 7.

If you find one that's off a bit, unplug that injector and clear the codes. Start the truck and see if it doesn't idle smoother (still with a CEL & miss due to the unplugged injector).

 

My how the plot thickens...

Got home tonight, in attack mode. HPOP was low, topped it off. Truck still runs bad, but it runs now, now I have CEL and a P1316 DTC. That is what really gets me. Because last night I removed both valve covers and installed the Ford retaining clips and then didn't have a DTC although drivers side was loose. Why the code now, just strange coincidence low HPOP and loose clips (good thing I bought a lottery ticket tonight) after getting to operating temp I checked temps on both manifolds and the drivers side was at approx 140* and the passenger side was at 188* which leads me to believe that I have a dead bank on the drivers side. Could I have shorted out the harness with the loose clip? I arranged for a guy to come over tomorrow night and do a buzz test on her. Any thoughts? Here is a link of how she runs now that I topped off the HPOP.


Lil better - YouTube

 

See this thread. Good info on 1316 code after installing the UVCH clips or doing the 50 cent mod.

UVCH Burned Center Pin

 

Finally figured it out! It was a burnt center pin on the driver's side.
Replaced both harness and gasket.

One small problem, now I have a SEL on... Gonna pull codes tomorrow to see whats up with that. But she is running perfect!

 

Glad to hear. As for the SES, maybe you left something unplugged.

 

Mine sounds just like this at idle after changing injectors (also shakes more now). My question is did you get a buzz test done? I have run the test a few times and all 8 injectors sound the same but at idle sounds just like the first few seconds prior to you reving up.

 

No, no buzz test. I took temperature readings on each manifold and went from there. Is there any way some your injector plugs are loose? Also make sure your HPOP reservoir is topped off, I think that's what made mine the worse is when is was low.

 

Glad you got it resolved.

 

Now that you have a handle on the fix, imagine just how much loot the brotherhood here saved you...what do you think the stealership would have charged you to troubleshoot and repair these issues??? I know it's been a PITA, but now, you have obtained a wealth of knowledge and some extra dough in the wallet to satisfy your future PMS...IMHO...