as some know, I have been looking around for a different van. Anyway, I have found a '06 E250 Extended that has a 4.6l v8. From the research I have done, it sounds like the 4.6 is a good engine, BUT, probably not the best for a 3/4 ton, especially an extended one that will get loaded down pretty good.

So I guess my real question is, how dumb would I be to consider it? I think I can get it relatively cheap, it has 108k on the van, basic cargo package. I will be loading it down pretty good with tools in the back. I am really more concerned about longevity and mileage than trying to race the thing.

How well do the extended bodies hold up? my E150 right now seems like it is sagging a little in the back, are the extended vans a little more beefed up back there, or is it mostly just more sheetmetal? Thanks,

Brew

 

Should be fine around the city, but I would be more worried about if the 100,000 mile tune-up and trans stuff had been done yet, that's a grand or so to have done.

 

are you just talking tune up and fluid changes? If so, that is no concern. Or is there something "special" that must be done to these Fords that I don't know about? Thanks,

Brew

 

under-powered is under-powered...
If you plan on loading it then also consider the roads/hills too, power wise.
don't kick yourself later.
as for the body, the body bushings could go bad OR worst the frame has given. but they DO hold up for a really really long time and lots of miles.

 

I have no experience with the 4.6 but I'm also in the market for a new-to-me van, same extended body E250 but will consider E350 too. Since I'm running about 7800# as a daily driver I won't consider anything less than the 5.4---fact is I'd love to find a V10 but they seem a bit rare in the cargo vans. 14mpg consistently isn't horrible, especially for a work van--since its making money while on the road this is acceptable for me.

In theory a smaller CID engine will work harder under the same loads and conditions as something larger CID possibly resulting in better fuel economy. Perhaps another van owner with the 4.6 who uses it as we do Brew will have some real world experience to share with us.

Body wise assuming its not been in a heavy wreck the Ford E-Series are quite well made with an impressive system of built in rust inhibiting materials. Crawling underneath the van should quickly show any signs of repair or severe rust. Take some work clothes with you and spend some time under the vehicles you're looking to buy----its just a smart move.

I'd love to see photos of your E150's sagging body. If its not been in a heavy accident or the rear body structure over the rear axle hasn't prematurely rusted away it might be your suspension. Do you load it close to or over its limits?

 

In my area, nothing stands up to the rust except for stainless steel. Only one car I know is made of that. Every Ford van you see that is older than 10 years is covered in rust, mine included.

I am definitely close to or over my weight limit. I added some overload coils under there to get the van off it's bump stops. I think it is the suspension getting pushed up in to the van more than it is the actual back sagging. When I bought the truck there was some rust showing and indentations where it looks like the shock mounts are or something like that is pushing up.

Brew

 

Yikes! Maybe you'd consider a van shopping vacation?

I prefer the 4.6L, some on FTE enthusiastically believe it's the best motor in E-Series period. Considering how pervasive rust is, I'd be far more concerned about corrosion.

My '92 E150 spent less than 2 Winters in OH, as retired owner moved to FL, but that exposure to road salt was enough to infest it with Tin Worms. IMO once there's "rust showing" it's The Beginning of the End, b/c the rust that's NOT "showing" is already terminal.

These days it's easy to shop outside the Rust Belt. Services like CarFax will reveal where vehicle was sold & registered throughout its life. If you've got family/friends in deep South, Southwest, West, Northwest might be a good time to visit?

The cash for Gas Guzzlers program sent a lot of rust free Econolines to the scrap yard here. Was depressing. Having spent 1/3 of my life in FL, 1/3 in New England & 1/3 all over the world taught me how incredibly destructive Rust Belt corrosion really is.

During 80's every year I brought 1 or 2 rust free SAAB's from FL back to CT. Flew, rented car, enjoyed vacation, visited family/friends, shopped in spare time & drove 'new' car back. Also made a few trips w/Club Wagon & car haul trailer. Made a little cash, had some fun & traded up to outstanding condition 900 SPG. You still need to be selective, but when you see truly rust free chassis it's a Wake Up Call.

 

Where is the rust? - YouTube

First time i had ever seen a rust free econoline. This one, is freaking 18 years (04/94) old. True, rust free vehicles are scary.

 

anyone know of a good place to buy some repair panels? I would like to fix a couple real bad spots on my van, then hit it with some bedliner material to keep it from completely rotting away.

Brew

 

For hoods, fenders, radiator support, bumpers, lights, grille, etc i use Certifit. I have enough of my farm vehicles that get smacked up that we have an account with them (and do a few hundred a month in business!)

You would be surprised how cheap some of that stuff is. I cant give prices on the body parts because they are NDA under contract, but the headlamp assemblies are less than 40 bucks

For the main body itself, i have used mill supply and raybuck. Both have the parts, and i believe raybuck's website lists prices. Shipping, as expected, can be a bit of a bitch.

1992-2006 Ford Fullsize Van

 

thanks, i have used certifit quite a bit over the years too. I will check out the link you listed. My van it is mostly behind and in front of the back wheels that are bad. One side is almost completely gone behind the wheel. The other is bubbling quite bad already. I really don't understand why so many people will not install mudflaps. That would probably cut the body rust in half on most vehicles.

Brew

 

I stopped installing mudflaps on my vehicles in the early 2000's. Its too hard to attach them without compromising the corrosion protection on newer vehicles, and they were becoming a source of trapped mud and dirt rather quickly. My recently found 95 (the one i linked the video of) will probably get some mud flaps and some bushwhackers after i lift it, but that's more the exception than the rule.

 

Agree with this ^^ completely! Once that factory-applied bare metal coating, paint primer and finish color is pierced with attaching screws rust can have a feast. So far I've not found decent form-fitting mud & stone guards that are not screwed to the body---perhaps I've just not looked enough?

I've seen vehicles lower rock- and pit-prone areas fitted with the adhesive masking material originally touted as a permanent clear front mask, applied to the impact zone where bra's were once fitted. There is a wide variety of material available for this for the DIY market---any outfit doing the car wrap signage typically can/will do this on existing vehicles too. Here's a link to one seller: ClearMask Automotive Paint Protection And Headlight Protection Film - Auto Clear Bra - Scotchgard Protector - Headlight Covers

3M's offerings: Scotchgard Paint Protection Film, Rolls-Shop 3M & Scotchgard Paint Protection Film, Strips-Shop 3M

My next van will receive this treatment---the price is a no-brainer if it stalls or prevents rust on the lower portions.