You'll want to do something to cover/plug the injector holes while you are cleaning the engine so nothing falls in there. If nothing else, stuff a piece of rag or paper towel in there.

This is a good time to check all the glow plugs out and replace them if needed. Make sure to use only Motorcraft/Beru plugs.

 

I got one from pensacola diesel for $350 out the door no core charge. It did not work I called the company the next day and they sent me another one with prepaid postage in the box to get the other one back. No crap, no arguments just explained what i did to prime and what the result were and when I asked if i missed something the guy said no sounds like it bad we will send you another one. New one showed up a few days later.

 

I keep meaning to check in and post an update but I've been too busy with this project to do it- which is a good thing.

The IP and injectors got dropped off at the shop today instead of mailed- I ended up finding other reasons I had to go all the way to Anchorage, so it worked out.

Anyway, I got most of the work done on this on Saturday. Got the engine all cleaned off with diesel, wire & tooth brushes, and a roll of paper towels. Then hit some spots with brakleen and compressed air after pulling the IP but before pulling the injectors. I think I got it pretty good- that whole engine compartments been gunky since I bought it.

Still need to add another ground wire for the GP controller- that was good advice just to add one from the controller to another ground, it looks like there are a few wires grounded to the valve cover, best not to mess around with it that location since it ain't broken in the first place.

All my GPs are good, but I have an exhaust leak I need to fuss with, and the other project I want to tackle while the truck is down is replacing the gear oil all over. I dug through receipts and saw it was last changed 45k miles ago, but that was in 1996.

What do you guys use for oil in the 4 speed T-18 4x4? I looked up to use SAE 85/90 for the transmission, but then the Chilton manual says to use Dexron II for the transfer case (isnt that ATF?). So do I put one type of oil in the trans and another in the transfer case? Never done one of these old ford diesels before & I dont want to screw it up!

I was going to go with SAE 80 or 90 hypoid gear oil for the F&R differential, is that also correct?

I know I'm getting off track from my thread, so no lengthy explanation on that is necessary, just a simple "yes" or "no, use ___ instead" will make me a lot more confident. The Chilton manual does not always inspire confidence.

 

Hey where exactly are you at if I may ask? I live in Wasilla and I am goin to need to do my IP soon as well. If the shop that quoted you $500 was around here I would give them a call.

 

Hi I went to hector with injectors, about a year ago no problems so far seemed to know his stuff, I live about a 100 miles from him, There is a snowbird who is a semi retired diesel mechanic from alaska that winters down here and they have known each other for years. (Frank Cortez) hope this helps.

 

The long time diesel shop near me can not find a source for the rebuild parts for my Stanadyne IP for my 1993 E350 7.3 Can anyone tell me where their shops are getting their parts? My shop tells me that Penscola and others no longer have kits to sell. HELP!

 

80-90 for the tranny and diffs. Dextron/Mercron for the transfer case.

 

^^ Thanks! Thats super helpful.

Brandon- I live in Seward. The shop I took my pump to is Advance Diesel in ANC- they're over by Merril Field, 10th and Orca. Way closer to you than me! I feel confident they'll do good work. I'll let you know how it goes though- how far out from a rebuild do you think you are? Also, do you know of other diesel shops in the state that work on old IDIs? For some reason I got that from your post, but I wasn't aware of any other shops...
It will be ready by the end of the week & I'll report back on the reinstall-- but I'm spending the weekend camping and then busy w/ work next week so it will be hard to find time to reinstall right away when I get it back...of course with it being light out until 10pm nowadays I think I'll find the time. Oh and by the way, they also have new injectors (delphi) for $35, $5 cheaper than rockauto and no core. They're selling me a set but testing my old ones for free & then I'l just take back the good ones so I've got some spares laying around.

Mudguts- thats good to know for sure. I was hoping someone had something good or reputable to say about hectorwithinjectors since I brought them up. Doing google searches for that name brought me to other threads in other forums that were basically guys like me asking about the company, then responses saying "never went there, but I like ____." But theres nothing bad I've read about them.

Edzeb- I do not know the answer to your question regarding the source of parts. The shop I went with had the parts they needed. They didn't have any reman pumps on the shelf, but they had the parts to rebuild mine. hectorwithinjectors has the parts- the lady I spoke with on the phone said they keep their costs so low because they buy parts in such high volume.

 

I thought I have seen that truck around but couldn't figuare where. I work in the "hotel" across the bay in Seward which is where I am as I type.
Yeah C&C up in the valley does VERY respectable work and I have seen old IDI's in there in the past. I'm hoping his price is the same as that which you said you were getting charged.
I don't know how far from a rebuild the engine I'm working on is I picked up an old IDI down in seward actually a couple years ago for $500 with a fresh rebuild on the engine minus the IP. I am just waiting for the one I am runnin now to take a dump so I can put the newer one in. I want to get the IP,injectors,and Glow Plugs all fresh before I stick it in my truck.

 

Thats cool, I've never stayed in that hotel but I hear its a nice joint. I just cant afford to stay there though- plus I like my little cabin with its user-friendly doors and windows just fine

I'll keep you posted on how much this ends up costing and all that good stuff. Also, on how well it works although I have little previous experience so my frame of reference is lacking. I bet my truck is going to run & drive better than I've ever experienced it though. I cant wait!

I only bought it a year and a half ago and its had some problems, keeping it off the road for a good chunk of that time. You probably saw it parked for sale for a long time over by the patty wagon too. Anyway, should be back in it by the end of next week with new IP, injectors, glow plugs and I'm doing all the fluids while its down too. This is going to be my daily driver until I can find a good little runaround car.

 

I got the new pump installed today. It took about 4-6 tries cranking for 20 seconds to get the truck to fire. At first I had some lines cracked but then I decided to just crank on it with all the lines tightened and thats when it fired. Its outside idling, sounding great, but I still have a leaky return line above a brand new injector in the same position that I have been battling forever now, so that sucks. The leak above the plastic cap doesn't look as bad this time, maybe I can work it out...but the major deal is done & all seems good right now. $950 was the total bill for the pump rebuild and the new injectors. $666 for the pump, $330 of which was labor. The pump is immaculate & looks brand new. I'm glad I cleaned up under the hood real nice. Time to go cruising around & break this new pump in.

 

Glad it worked out good for u. Bet she runs like a brand new rig!! hope u can track down the leak problem soon and she be all set. Any chance the flare at the end of the line on top of the injector has a nick in it or something similar? That would prob cause a leak and be difficult to trace with out a close inspection of the line.

 

I used that shop for several pump rebuilds when I worked up in ANC for evergreen, excellent work, and they are an authorized stanadyne dealer so you know there are no knock off parts in the rebuild and thats why it costs so much.

 

Update:
The truck is still running great- yes it does feel like a new rig. DidI mention 5/8 of my injectors tested bad? Yeah. OK well I did have a week of down time due to front brake issues, so I haven't put lots of miles on it yet, but with all the noticeable problems solved now I think I'm pretty well set up now.

Do I need to adhere to any "break-in" period with the new pump? I ask only because I really opened up on the truck a couple times because it's kicking so much *** and then I checked myself not wanting to damage my new pump. BTW my definition of 'opening up' is just getting up to like 45-50 in 3rd gear (wanting to see if it missed at all in the higher RPMs- nope runs great!). My tach doesnt work so I cant be more precise than that.