c6 input shaft question
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Dallas, GA
I don't know for sure to be honest. I tried researching it for a couple hours and couldn't find anything. I know this shaft looks just like one we would use. In fact, if someone had sent me this picture, I would have guessed it went to one of our gear driven hydraulic or oil pumps
The sacrificial link we machine into ours don't cover that much of the length though. We basically just machine a shallow grove into one spot. Just like you would take a parting tool on a wood lathe.
So interesting enought...I just can't figure out why else it would be there? It's there on purpose I think. Maybe for something like you said. Don't allow tranny fluid to travel the entire length of the shaft incase there's a leak?
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
The first one I saw alarmed me like it did the OP. We were tearing down 3 different C6's at the time. We said we wouldnt be re using that input shaft. Then we got two others tore down and they were the same. I tore down one about a month ago and it was just like it too.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Dallas, GA
Wish I was tearing mine down!! Dang thing just isn't shifting right and I've done everything I know of to get it to work....nothing. I'm beginning to thing the governor is sticking or something. Thing just won't go into 3rd unless I really let off the gas.
Postmaster
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
Kevin, is your modulator vaccum valve doing its job? Those are like $15 and they take all of about 5 minutes to change. Also did you see the governor back flush procedure in any of the other threads?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Dallas, GA
I put the sea foam in there, been about a month now, and drove her pretty hard in reverse. Still hangs going into 3rd.
I even read that having the vacuum connected to a runner and not to true manifold vacuum may be a problem so I changed the source to manifold....made no difference.
The all happened at the same time that I hooked up the kickdown, PO did not have it connected. Since then, the shifter shaft is leaking and it has issues up shifting. I'm wondering if that curcuit that ports HP fluid to downshift the tranny sat for so long ununed and now that I've connected it...it blew some junk threw the system?? Just reaching.
kickdown is adjusted properly and it downshifts fine. Just that one problem, and it leaking. I think the leak was from the same thing. The kickdown lever hadn't been exercised in forever and now that it's connnected, it leaks.
Postmaster
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
That is strange kevin. You could be onto something with your theory. Sea Foam for a month too. Man you be getting in the need for a teardown. I would certainly at least try to change the fluid and filter before I did a tear down. Maybe the Sea Foam has loosened a lot more stuff up and it needs to be evacuated. If you do change the fluid be sure to empty the torque converter as well. Many of them have a plug in the torque converter to drain it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,410
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From: Dallas, GA
That is strange kevin. You could be onto something with your theory. Sea Foam for a month too. Man you be getting in the need for a teardown. I would certainly at least try to change the fluid and filter before I did a tear down. Maybe the Sea Foam has loosened a lot more stuff up and it needs to be evacuated. If you do change the fluid be sure to empty the torque converter as well. Many of them have a plug in the torque converter to drain it.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
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From: Exmore, VA
Kevin, if it is shifting hard, you may need to back off the adjustment screw in the end of the modulator. Even with a leaking (enough that when I took the C6 out it had a bit in the tube) diaphram mine still shifted pretty good. C6 is a pretty simple one to build, no where near as bad as that strange thing you have on your engine stand. The only hard part is the 1st and reverse clutch piston.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Dallas, GA
Kevin, if it is shifting hard, you may need to back off the adjustment screw in the end of the modulator. Even with a leaking (enough that when I took the C6 out it had a bit in the tube) diaphram mine still shifted pretty good. C6 is a pretty simple one to build, no where near as bad as that strange thing you have on your engine stand. The only hard part is the 1st and reverse clutch piston.
So I think it's progressing toward more of just a shifting issue. I think she's tired and wore out and time for some work. I've never rebuilt and auto but gonna go for it.
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
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From: Exmore, VA
Check the intermediate band adjustment, left side in front of the neutral safety/backup light switch. Adjustment spec is tighten band screw to 10 ft-lbs, then back off 1 1/2 turns. They tell you to replace the locknut, but it isn't really necessary.
Postmaster
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
Yeah, Bill has a good idea and it may give you some more time before you need to build it. I had another procedure for tightening the band up that didnt require a torque wrench floating around here somewhere. It was the instructions from my transgo reprogramming kit. I think it was more for getting a good strong lock up for performance builds.
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