hey fellas!

New to the forum and new to 9th Gen. F-150 ownership, but I've *always* loved this body style and couldn't be happier!

That said, I've got myself into a pretty little pickle. Not only did I purchase the truck without a title, but there is also a lien on the darn thing - but that's on its way to being sorted. My next problem is that the truck is a non-runner and has a boatload of miles (280,xxx). I'm well aware of the longevity of these engines and not super concerned as it isn't slated to be a daily driver. If I can get her all back up and running that is.

So to get to the point; I'm struggling to get the truck started. Admittedly I've not dug incredibly deeply into the non-running problem because it's been so darn cold outside this week. But what I can tell you all is that with a battery, the engine turns over no problem, it just doesn't catch or sound like it's even trying to start.

I'm fairly mechanically adept, so I know basics; air, fuel, spark, compression. Having said that, I know I'll need to check the compression, ensure there is spark, fuel flow/adequate pressure, etc. The reason I'm posting today is to request some assistance and/or pointers with where in the ignition system on this model I should start. Additionally, I've got some issues when I pop the hood. I have two connectors that are missing whatever the heck they are supposed to plug into; so I'm hoping someone here would recognize what these plugs are for? Also, it appears the vacuum lines aren't all connected where they should be, but as I'm sure other members here are aware, that little diagram on the hood doesn't help worth a DARN.

Hopefully, someone here could give me a bit of advice based on these photos!

Here's the pretty little sucker getting loaded up:


Here's Unknown Connector #1:


And Unknown Connector #2:


I'm wondering if one of these connectors goes to an ignition control module - I don't know if this truck has the fender mounted ICM or distributor mounted ICM, but I don't remember seeing one on the distributor, and honestly, I don't even know where the fender mounted ICM is actually supposed to be located...but hey, if it's missing then I'm one step closer to getting it to run at least!

Thanks all for your assistance, it's greatly appreciated!

S/F,

-Matt

 

I can't help you but it's a clean looking truck. Someone will come along with some answers for you. Good luck.

 

1. Does the fuel pump make a rather quiet 2-3 second sound when key is turned to 'run'?
2. Do you have spark, & are plug/wire conditions ok?
3. I don't know what the connectors are. By chance, do they plug into each other? It would be awesome if it was just something unplugged that was wrong!
4. I recently replaced all the plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor, ignition control module on my '96 4.9, my module was next to the dist., not on fender. It runs great but still has an occasional no-start & stalling that I've posted under "stalled & stranded" in this forum.
5. Get a code reader on it, need one for OBD1 or whatever... May want to haul it to a shop since I've heard the OBD1 equip. is not easy to come by.
6. At 280k, you may need a timing chain soon. I don't know that from experience, but I've heard they go 300k or so.

280,000 miles??? That truck is CLEAN. Most of the 280k trucks in the rust belt look like absolute junk compared to yours. Score!

 

I forgot to mention that in your last photo, the ICM would be hidden by your hand if it were distr.-mounted. From the 2nd pic, I'm pretty sure it would be visible if it were there.

 

Give it a shot of ether. If it hits and runs for sec or two then you know the spark is good and it is fuel related.

 

the more basic the truck, the more empty connectors it will come with. if there's no obvious place for them to plug into, i wouldn't worry too much about them.

 

Thanks Glenn, it's a little bit rougher up close than it appears in photos. That color is amazing for hiding imperfections.

So far I've not been able to hear a fuel pump whine when I turn on the ignition; though I know that doesn't necessarily mean there isn't fuel flowing though - I can't hear the fuel pump in my Jeep either.

Regarding the rest of your suggestions; it's going to warm up later this week so I'll be going out and tackling those items this week as well - hopefully I'll have some more positive information to report on.

I've posted some more photos at the end of this thread - can you spot it anywhere? I tried to find some pictures online of the location(s) of the ICM but I can't find anything other than the ICM itself. The Dist mounted one is pretty obvious, but the fender mounted one...beats me.

That's the plan, but I'll use my spark tester first...I'm thinking the ICM is missing so it'd just be a waste of the starter fluid.

That's interesting. This is an XL. But I'm just surprised to think that these plugs wouldn't even have blocker plates on them?



So I've taken a few more photos; does anyone see anything else amiss? Can anyone spot the ICM - I sure can't find it. I've got the User Manual on the way, but it's not here just yet!

Overall Shot:


Broken/Unattached Vacuum fitting. Oh, I should note that I bridged the broken green vacuum tube with that rubber tube...I figured green-green makes sense.


Distributor w/o ICM:


Cruddy shot of the coil:


Passenger Side:


Passenger Side Angle 2:


Passenger Side Angle 3:


Lastly, where is the engine computer on these trucks? I'm missing the passenger side kick panel and cannot tell if there should be a computer module or something else in here??


I appreciate all your help fellas, really do. Hopefully I'll get this ole worker back on the job before long!

S/F,

-Matt

 

Hey so actually I was able to locate the ICM after searching again...apparently I was a bit tired last night because it was quite an easy find this morning...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...hot-start.html

I also just picked up this OBD-1 Code Scanner with the extension cord. Should be here Tuesday and luckily Tuesday should be pretty warm. I'm admittedly a huge baby in the cold...it's a cross I just have to bear

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-F...s=obd1+scanner

Come Tuesday I'm hitting this sucker with vigor...

 

Hi,
Smart to get the scanner!

Good luck, I have a 89 F-150 XLT Lariet with a 4.9L and Mazda 5 speed tranny!

These are sweet trucks and easy to work on!!!

 

That gray connector with the broken tab looks like it would go on the rear connector of the (whatever it is called) mounted to the valve cover. It's kinda hidden underneath the EGR valve, but is mounted off the side of the valve cover at the very back. There are two of them. The front one may have a black connector, and the rear may be a gray connector (that's how it is on my engine).


For that other small connector, the only thing I can think of that is that small on that side of the engine would run to the brake master cylinder, but that's just a guess.


Your vacuum lines are a bit different from mine, and it looks like there's a few things missing. Looks like someone did an air pump delete on it, so hopefully they have the vacuum lines going to where they should. I couldn't tell if they're wrong or not, but it's a good thing to research if you want to check the work.

 

Animator,

Thanks for the input. I actually don't even have a solid pic of what this engine bay *should* look like, so it makes it tough to know what is right and what isn't When I first opened the hood the green vacuum hose was completely split and just hanging there along with the 4-way splitter that it's attached to going to the EGR solenoid. Kind of like a puzzle without what it should look like in the end...

I'm going to be looking up what a "healthy" 4.9L engine bay should look like tonight and hopefully that'll give me a better idea of what, if anything could be missing. There are two holes on the driver side fender well where I can see light poking through - perhaps something was mounted there and the bracket was also removed?

 

Well, last night a buddy came over and we did a decent amount of testing and diagnostics on Ole Goldie.

We tracked that we have power all the way to the coil and that the ICM & PIP/CPS is functioning; just no spark from the coil. I have purchased a new coil and I'll install it tonight and see if that corrects the no spark condition.

Another issue that we found though is that there is no fuel pressure. When I turn on the ignition, there is no sound of a fuel pump kicking on for either tank (using the tank selector switch on the dash). To further diagnose, we ensured that the Inertia Switch was properly reset (it wasn't tripped) and checked the Fuel Pump Relay, which is functioning.

So at this point I need to:

1. Check for Power at the fuel pump(s)
2. Check the fuel tank selector switch?
3. ...? What am I missing?

One other thing that I was wondering about; could the no spark/no fuel condition be caused by a bad ECM?

Thanks folks!

-Matt

 

Yes, most certainly sounds like a bad computer. Do you have a check engine light? These computers are notorious for leaking capacitors. You could pull it apart and look inside and see if there are any burnt looking spots.

You could try jumping the fuel pumps to make sure they are working. You can jump it right at the eec test connector.

My truck had a faulty computer a year ago.

 

Thanks for the input. I haven't pulled it just yet but my plans are to do so this weekend.

What/where is the EEC test connector? I'd *love* to perform that test so I could know for sure that it's the computer rather than spending a ton of time trying to prove it.

Not sure if this tells me anything, but the OBD-1 reader I bought didn't throw any codes, just nothing at all. Makes me think that the ECM is burnt as well...I know that something isn't right or the bugger would be running.

Oh, and yes, the check engine light is on...but I kind of expected that so it didn't really throw a red flag to me since *I know* something isn't know.

 

Im pretty sure it will be on the drivers side inner fender. I've mainly owned 87-91 F-series so I'm not sure if they moved it. All you have to do is ground it with a jumper wire. I think the key has to be on but not 100% positive.




Here is what it looks like