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9 inch drain plug

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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 08:25 PM
  #1  
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9 inch drain plug

I would like to drill and tap a 1/2 plug in my Ford 9 inch differential. Where would be the best location to drill the hole so I could tap it and not have the plug hit the third member inside? It's a 74 F100, pics would be awesome.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 08:38 PM
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Dude, Why do that? Unless ya go mudding often, just leave a couple of nuts on when ya separate the gear carrier from the housing to keep it from falling out and it will drain all by itself.

The ring gear is left of centerline. Therefore, low and right of center will be fine. Keep in mind to use a low profile plug otherwise a rock can shear that puppy off in a heartbeat and you'll start hearing very expensive groans and moans of your rear end locking up tighter than Obama's liberal ideology.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
Dude, Why do that? Unless ya go mudding often, just leave a couple of nuts on when ya separate the gear carrier from the housing to keep it from falling out and it will drain all by itself.

The ring gear is left of centerline. Therefore, low and right of center will be fine. Keep in mind to use a low profile plug otherwise a rock can shear that puppy off in a heartbeat and you'll start hearing very expensive groans and moans of your rear end locking up tighter than Obama's liberal ideology.
I was looking for an easier way to change the oil than removing the axles, brakes etc The truck is a 2 wheel drive so it will not be off road much, is the housing thick enough to tap in a few threads?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 10:17 PM
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Ah. I see... Yeah, it's thick enough. Guys will drill housings for air lockers so a plug will be fine...it'll need to have threads all the way to the plug's head.

Ya could just the OEM drain hole to siphon out the gear oil.

Your call.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 06:22 AM
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I did this for my truck. Just drill a hole, tap it and put in a plug. I used an oil pan style plug so I could use a socket on it to remove it but you could just as easily use a plug similar to what is used for the fill hole.
Just make sure you get all of the shavings out of the housing when you are done drilling and tapping.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 07:10 AM
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Magnetize your drill bit to help collect the shavings.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 09:24 AM
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Put grease on your tap to collect the shavings too!!
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 10:19 AM
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Thanks, I will use the tips suggested. I plan to drill on the bottom flat part of the diff, just off to the right of centre, hope all goes well!!!
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 10:48 AM
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If you start reading in the thread below, there's someone who did just what you're asking about...and he discussed and analyzed it at great length. You might find some good ideas there.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-build-12.html
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Dorsai
...and he discussed and analyzed it at great length.
Drastic understatement.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Dorsai
If you start reading in the thread below, there's someone who did just what you're asking about...and he discussed and analyzed it at great length. You might find some good ideas there.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-build-12.html
Being the "someone" referred to in the above quote, I thank you, Dorsai. You were kind - as opposed to what you might have said, and what another "someone" did say. In fact, I think that "someone" said "8-page micro-analysis" wrt that topic. Ouch!

Originally Posted by ctubutis
Drastic understatement.
Hey, "someone", I'm gonna quote my father:
  • If that's a compliment I thank you.
  • I resemble that statement.

Rivergreen74 - The way I did it isn't necessarily the way I'd do it again. I think what I'd do would be:
  1. Drill a hole slightly larger than an oil pan replacement drain plug, and put it off-center to miss the ring gear. And, btw, there is all kinds of clearance over there.
  2. Put a bolt, but not the drain bolt, through the hole and run a nut, with the same threads as the drain bolt, down on it - this ensures the nut won't move
  3. Tack weld that nut in several places on the inside
  4. Weld a piece of pipe to the outside to protect the drain plug
  5. Run the drain plug in against the case and you know it'll seal

Yes, having a nut inside might be a bit of a liability if it were to get loose, but even my welding skills are better than that. And, having the nut there does reduce the last little bit of lube you can get out, but you'll get far more out that way than just pulling the diff loose and letting it drain. And, it'll be more easily caught coming in one stream that way.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 02:14 PM
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When I've done mine I tap a bung & weld it to the housing. I then use a basic pipe plug with female square drive. Works well.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
You were kind - as opposed to what you might have said, and what another "someone" did say. In fact, I think that "someone" said "8-page micro-analysis" wrt that topic. Ouch!
Was I lying?

Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Hey, "someone", I'm gonna quote my father:
  • If that's a compliment I thank you.
  • I resemble that statement.
Of course it's a compliment, Gary!

We know you will thoroughly very! look at all possible angles and consider every approach before doing anything, this is the mark of a good engineer.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
Was I lying? Nope

Of course it's a compliment, Gary! Thanks

We know you will thoroughly very! look at all possible angles and consider every approach before doing anything, this is the mark of a good engineer. Yes, and one with more time to do such things than many of you. I'm not sure whether what I'm detecting is frustration for the many considerations, or envy for the time I have. I'll assume envy.
And, in true engineer fashion, meaning I can't leave well-enough alone, here's an upgrade on what I suggested previously: Use a castellated-nut with the slots facing down, and tack it on the points so the slots allow all the oil to drain.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
And, in true engineer fashion, meaning I can't leave well-enough alone, here's an upgrade on what I suggested previously: Use a castellated-nut with the slots facing down, and tack it on the points so the slots allow all the oil to drain.
Thanks, how thick is the actual metal at the bottom of the casing? I plan just to drill and tap in a NPT 3/8 magnetized plug.x
 
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