Also with the headliner being vinyl and not having any tears in it should I keep it green, or swap it for a black vinyl piece?

 

I believe that if it was a F350 and had the camper special package then it had the 140 wheel base.

 

It isnt an F350, its an F250 Super Cab Trailer Special. I fdont know the actual length of the wheelbase, havent measured it yet. I do know for sure any hairpin turn, and its all up on the curb.

 

2 digit DSO: District Sales Office.

6 digit DSO: First 2 digits: District Sales Office / Last 4 digits: Domestic Special Order.

When original purchasers order vehicles they want equipped a certain way, if what they want is available on said vehicles, these are RPO's = Regular Production Orders, not Domestic Special Orders, so the DSO code is 2 digits.

When vehicles are special ordered with equipment that are not RPO's, these are Domestic Special Orders, 6 digit DSO.

Not RPO's: Special paint (no COLOR code on Warranty Plate), Utility bodies, Flat or Stake Beds, Box Vans and etc bodies that FoMoCo (not the dealers) send out to aftermarket body makers after the trucks leave the assembly line. 4WD conversions, PTO's and etc.

Now what happens if the paint formula is required, or a body is damaged, the 4WD conversion needs work and etc. None of this special equipment is listed in the truck parts catalogs, because none are RPO's.

Dealer contacts FoMoCo with 6 digit DSO. FoMoCo looks up Domestic Special Order number (last 4 digits), then tells the dealer where the special parts can be obtained, what the special paint formula is.

This same system has been used for over 50 years.

1979, I had to special order a new F150 Lariat 2WD Super Cab, because I wanted it "loaded." No other dealer within 100 miles had a like truck that could be dealer traded for.

When truck arrived, it had a 2 digit DSO code because everything I wanted were RPO's.

Taeryen: Do not believe the miles shown on the odometer! The odometers of trucks of this vintage read to 99,999.9 .. then return to ZERO!

Used/new car dealers, private sellers alike engaged in the illegal practice of rolling back odometers, so there no way to prove what the actual mileage is.

The wheelbase (W.B.) is stamped on the 2nd line of the Warranty Plate, which is located on the left door face below the latch.

 

Just for info: green interior parts are very hard to find. Nobody reproduces them. If the dash pad, door panels, and headliner are all in good shape, you could probably sell the parts and buy new/repro in another color and have money left over.

 

I second that. The 77 I had was green in and out. The interior was in great shape, better than the rest of the truck. I still kick myself for selling it. I should have just put a new engine in it

 

The interior is in great shape, the driver side could use som repair, and the driver side doorhandle is about to fall off. There are a few cracks in the top of the dashboard from it being exposed to sun for so long. I want to know about the **** carpeting, and where would I look to refurbish that part. it even has the built in matting in the carpet. Also does anyone know how to fix a cruise control device or would I have to order that as well? Also would replaing the steering will with a newer one be a good idea since it has the cruise control buttons and everything? Over all the truck is great, few dents and dings needs new paint a tune up/rebuild/cleaning and a few other thing. There are more smaller issues than larger, well except for what I hope is just a bad ignition modual. Also I know the truck has been rolled back to zero at least once maybe twice in its life. I wish I could find the actual history of the truck, where it has been and everything. I have always want a classic and a rarity in one. I have had many opportunities to have something vintage (i.e a 69 Charger 440 Wedge 6 Shooter Carb w/ four on the floor, matching numbers) But with this truck its different it has an attitude like that of a woman and a grumpy old man in one. If it doesnt like what you do it tells you in the obvious way by having the nasty habit of dying on me. In all I will restore it over the years, add a few upgrades, like by adding Flowmaster exhaust and a cherrybomb muffler, LineX the bed of the truck, add running boards, lower it by an inch in the front, Tint the windows, add a hidden FM/AM stero (it still has the AM one it that still works) add a few more speakers to it, remove the AC pump or get it converted (I know thats big bucks) add Clearance lights, swap out the rear one piece window to the one that slides open, get the rims rechromed ect ect

 

smsautofabrics.com (located in Canby OR) has original upholstery for these trucks and darn near everything else from the 1950's thru today.

There are no Cruise Control parts available from FoMoCo, all are obsolete. Depending on which underhood parts you may need, some are the same as 1970's Passenger Cars.

The C/C horn pad is the same 1975/77 F100/350 and Econoline. It is not part of the steering wheel, sold by itself / Obsolete-Reproduced by Dennis Carpenter.

The C/C switch (D5TZ-9C888-A) was also sold by itself / Obsolete / Available NOS from Ford Dealers/obsolete parts vendors.

D5TZ-13341-B .. T/S Switch-Use with Cruise Control / Obsolete / 1975/77 F100/350 & Econoline. Last time I looked, a few were still available NOS

The specific C/C only steering wheel is the same: 1975/77 F100/350 & Econoline / Obsolete-Reproduced by Dennis Carpenter - be prepared for sticker shock, this wheel is expensive.

Gen-u-ine Ford sliding rear window same: 1973/96 F100/350, 1997 F250/350.

1967/79 all FoMoCo vehicles: martiauto.com can provide a copy of the original build sheet, a lot more info is available including a copy of the vehicles original window sticker.

There is a fee for Marti's services...which escalates, depending on how much info you want. This is known in the hobby as a Marti Report.

Y'all know...of course, that Marti has all the original FoMoCo records for '67/79's. FoMoCo has NONE of this info any longer.

 

I would absolutely NOT HACK UP a truck like that with all the stuff you mention.
DO NOT ever drill holes for anything espessely in the cab roof, you will NOT get all the holes sealed and rust will start and take over.
Do NOT hack up the exhaust system yourself-take the truck to a known reputable local exhaust shop and ask them to install duals with your Flowmasters, do NOT put crappy cherry bombs on a nice truck like that!
If your original seat needs repair, again a GOOD LOCAL upholstery shop should be able to get/order the specialized fabrics to do a undetectible repair.
Please resist the temptation to change colors the original is best, the cream & Green sounds great-I had a '78 F150 S/C with the Dark Jade interior-VERY RARE!!
-We'd love to see some pictures when ya get a chance!!

 

Sorry posted in the wrong thread.

 

Go for the tunnel ram with dual quads...

 

If you do install a tunnel ram please give it the bite to go with the bark. I've seen too many cars and trucks look mean and all hopped up but my V6 silverado can walk away from. I digress. For the right application a tunnel ram will be nice but if towing and low end grunt is your goal a low rise dual quad would work even a tri power style setup would look nice and keep it streetable. Tunnel rams are at the upper end of rpm.

 

I've put $3000 into mine on mostly repairs, broken parts & did a little dress-up under the hood but none of the stuff you're talking about. How much do you plan on putting into it?

 

Dual carbs take quite a bit of tuning and aren't known for their fuel consumption benefits. There may be a performance benefit if you are pushing 1,000 HP. I think out of character on a "trailer special".

 

Seeing as how many disagree with changing the color I won't. Although does anyone know where I would be able to get new green door panels? The ones I have are kind beaten up, the driver side is litterally falling apart. And the top of the dash needs to be recovered, the plastic/vinyl (Not really sure what it is) is cracked and faded.