Yeahbut, he seems to be indicating that it runs right/well/strong with James' carb. Or, that's the way I read it. Am I missing something?

 

First post mentions something about not even being able to "squeal a tire". As I read it, that part remains even with the better working carb. I could be wrong.....

 

Ahhh. Ok. Got it. Something to think about then.

 

The new carb falls in its face because it isnt tuned worth a crap. It also only gives up 5-8 lbs of vacuum like its all leaky somewhere or something. The rear ends are 3.50's. The tire size is 31x10.50. I just dont think the power will be there, but , I am not sure. I dont know if the guy that ground the cam got it right or not. He claims it should have enough torque to twist a driveshaft, but ,I am not seeing it. This thing should run like a dragster. I told the cam guy wanted 350 HP to the back wheels. That should have put the crankshaft HP up around 400. I dont want to bag on the cam guy yet until get everything right. However, when its finally right and not making the power it needs to I will hammer down as his butt on the corral forum where sells his services.

 

But, it runs well with James' carb? My guess is that part of it is the fact that a 1406 is tuned a bit lean. But, as I think about that, the lean tuning will be at cruise and not WOT. Anyway, we'll compare the two (maybe three inc mine) carbs on Friday.

 

The fuel pumps have 3/8 NPT fittings going into 3/8 hose barbs.

Why do all of the Edelbrock carbs have Weber stamped?

 

Weber casts them for Edelbrock, using the original Carter molds, but adding the Weber finish....

Sounds like my original thought is pretty spot on. Timing is likely slow.

Really need the cam specs too.

 

Ok so I called edelbrock tech support this evening. I found out that my carb is the 1406 which is considered the electric choke "economy" carb. James's carb is the 1405 manual choke and is considered to be the "performance" carb. There is a difference in jetting. I am not sure what it is. I was told but it went in one ear and out the other b/c it was a little over my head. Here is what I found on the Edelbrock site:

I think the 1405 is jetted :
primary .100
secondary .095
metering rod .070x.047
metering rod springs (orange) 5" HG

The 1406 is jetted:
primary .098
secondary.095
metering rod .073x.047
metering rod springs (orange) 5" HG
Art at edelbrock reccomended that I use the pink metering rod springs which will put it at 7" HG and to switch up to the 1455 metering rods which will bring me up from .073x.047 to .073x.042. Then he suggested that I move the accelerator pump from the bottom hole to the top hole. I think I will move it to the middle hole for starter because when I had it on the top the truck ran like crap.

Art also said the fuel pressure from the pump needs to be higher as well. 3-4 psi isnt enough. I did order a bigger Edelbrock pump that will supposedly put out 10 psi and will require the regulator I have. Apparently anything over 7 psi will blow the needle and seat open.

 

Yes, there is a minor variation in jetting between the 1405 & 1406. Which is why I will be converting my 1405 to electric choke, rather than getting a 1406.

I still suspect the timing is a bit slow. Dad's truck ran poorly when I first got it back on the road. Timing was quite retarded. Amazing how drastic the change is with just 10-15* change in initial timing. The 390 was so retarded on timing that holding it at 1500-2000 RPM for 2-3 minutes resulted in the manifolds visibly glowing at night.......

 

That's exactly why I wanted you to bring the strip kit awa James' carb. We know it works, so lets clone it, but we need the jets, rods, and springs to do it with. Or, maybe you can find one in town tomorrow. Or, find those jets, but that's harder to do I would imagine. With your cam and free flowing exhaust you'll need a bit more fuel than the 1406 was set up to deliver.

Or, we can put the Holley on from Rusty. That might wake it up even more than James' 1405. But, as I think about it, I'm thinking it doesn't have the kick-down linkage, although for testing you could shift it down manually.

 

I bought the kit from Oreilly's today. It was about $40. It has all kinds of different paraphenalia in it. Apparently there are a ton of different combinations that can be used. I also picked up an oil pan gasket.

 

Good deal. We can make yours like James', and can change what the tech suggested.

 

Ok here are the specs for my camshaft, keep in mind it is a hydraulic roller cam:

SBF - Street Beast 09 - HR110 + 4°


Reccomended valve adjustment: Intake .000" - Exhaust .000"
Lobe lift: Intake .353" - Exhaust .353"
Gross valve lift 1.60 ratio: Intake .565" - Exhaust .565"
Duration @ .050" tappet lift: Intake 214° Exhaust 224°
Lobe seperation: 110°
Recommended Intake centerline 106°
Valve timing at .050" tappet lift: _ open ___________ close
____________________ Intake: 1° BTDC __________ 33° ABDC
__________________ Exhaust: 46° BBDC ______ -2° ATDC

Degree this camshaft, using the specs provided on this sheet. The asymmetrical design of these lobes may not allow for accurate reading using the centerline method.

This camshaft is designed for naturally aspirated high torque street applications other uses may not be optimized if this cam design is used.

The power band is "roughly" between 1600 to 5000 RPM with 351-33 CID. Gear the vehicle accordingly.

The preferred minimum valve spring pressure is 150#-155# on the seat PAC Racing 1521, Lunati 73925, Comp 26925 or equivalent spring required. Lightweight chromemoly steel retainers and hardened valve locks required. Hardeded heavy wall push rods required for high RPM valvetrain stability. Tubular headers and free flowing muffleers and exhaust system required. Lubricants with a high zinc content recommended for long-term endurance. This camshaft core requires a steel, OEM compatible distributor gear.

 

Keep in mind I dont know jack crap about cams. I told him to grind it for a 3:73 rear end because thats what my buddy Jason thought it had in the diffs. So without looking at the tags thats what I repeated to him. Turns out the rear ends are 3:50. Everybody I talked to including the cam guy said it wont make any difference that will be noticable.


Does this cam sound like it should be stout or is it a mild cam?

Remember I told the cam guy (Ed Curtis at Flowtech Induction Systems) that I wanted 350 HP to the wheels.

 

Bruno - I don't know much about cams, so can't really say how stout your engine should be with that cam. But, what I recommend is to go to the Comp Cams site and compare your specs to their 351W cams. You can probably get pretty close and then you can see what they recommend that cam for. That's what I'm going to do with the cam in Rusty's engine.

Then you can either download their app or use the web version to configure your engine, select the cam and see the dyno output. Plus, when we get together we can run my Desktop Dyno using your setup. And we will compare that output with what Dynolicious gives us. Should tell us a lot about your engine.