Rear Disc Brake Conversion
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 161
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Rear Disc Brake Conversion
Well I just swaped out my Rear Drum Brakes for a set of Disc. Tired of the return springs breaking. My question is the residual valve, i understand theres 10 lb for drum brakes on the master cylinder? So I removed the brass seat in the master cylinder and used a drill bit to see if it was there and I didnt feel anything there, so i hooked everything back up and took a test drive. It seems to be working ok, the front Discs were cool to the touch and the rear were a little warm. Was just wondering if Ford put this valve someplace else? I'm still using the factory Disc/ Drum Master Cylinder. Thanks for any help.
Tennessee Hillbilly
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 196
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From: East TN
That's what they recommend. the factory valve for the drum brakes keeps the residual pressure on the brake shoes and doesn't allow the front brakes to fully engage until the pressure is correct on the rear brakes.
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Mountain Pass
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 269
Likes: 1
From: Paradise, CA
I just went through all this when I put a rear D60 in my F150. If I could afford the new tires I would be driving it. I was unsure about the master cylinder so I just purchased a modern one from RockAuto to go with my hydroboost. I plumbed in a proportioning valve, but retained the stock one. I removed the proportioning part for the rear brakes. I was going to just remove the stock Pvalve and replace with brass fittings, but I liked the safety feature of the pressure differential valve. If you are removing the stock proportioning valve there is no need to wire in the switch as you can see from the diagram that it. Just wire it so the light doesn't come on.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 2,388
Likes: 138
From: Northern California
Well I just swaped out my Rear Drum Brakes for a set of Disc. Tired of the return springs breaking. My question is the residual valve, i understand theres 10 lb for drum brakes on the master cylinder? So I removed the brass seat in the master cylinder and used a drill bit to see if it was there and I didnt feel anything there, so i hooked everything back up and took a test drive. It seems to be working ok, the front Discs were cool to the touch and the rear were a little warm. Was just wondering if Ford put this valve someplace else? I'm still using the factory Disc/ Drum Master Cylinder. Thanks for any help.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,069
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676 you dont mention what rear end you have d60/70 or 9" on my d60 conversion for my 79 reg cab [pics in my gallery] i used the factory prop valve as is with no problems at all i can stop from 70mph all day long straight and true with no lockup at all i would say drive it 1st and go with the aftermarket valve if you realy have a lockup issue also when i change my drive train and body over from the 3/4 to frame to the 1/2 ton my rear conversion will go up for sale as it will not be needed any more
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2012
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Mouse
The truck has a Dana 60, I tried the stock Valve and the rear brakes were warm to the touch after a Short test drive. I installed a new Valve "Disc/Disc" Model from Jeffs Bronco Draveyeard and it works great now. The valve bolted right on, I was kind of surprised about that. They even inclueded the plug/wire to hook up the light, as the plug on the new valve is different.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,196
Likes: 387
From: Near Los Angeles
I used a 2lb residual valve for the rear discs, and swapped out the oem p.valve for an adjustable for rear only from ABS brakes ($50), and the system works terrific.
However, I also installed Hydroboost, a chebby c3500 disc/disc master, and a Saginaw p/s pump. I could come over a hill at 60 mph and see a dead stop ahead, and it wouldn't even phase me. It stops on a dime.
However, I also installed Hydroboost, a chebby c3500 disc/disc master, and a Saginaw p/s pump. I could come over a hill at 60 mph and see a dead stop ahead, and it wouldn't even phase me. It stops on a dime.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Has anyone done a write-up on how to do this rear disc conversion? And a trouble-shooting for after it's installed?
I'm very interested in doing this conversion, but it seems that I can't find any info on it at all.
Anything/Everything/Comments/Suggestions apprecitated!
I'm very interested in doing this conversion, but it seems that I can't find any info on it at all.
Anything/Everything/Comments/Suggestions apprecitated!
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,196
Likes: 387
From: Near Los Angeles
Has anyone done a write-up on how to do this rear disc conversion? And a trouble-shooting for after it's installed?
I'm very interested in doing this conversion, but it seems that I can't find any info on it at all.
Anything/Everything/Comments/Suggestions apprecitated!
I'm very interested in doing this conversion, but it seems that I can't find any info on it at all.
Anything/Everything/Comments/Suggestions apprecitated!
I tried to use the 76-78 El Dorado calipers with ebrake, and never could get them to work right. I ended up switching to the chevy cals. There is a co. called TSM who has redesigned the Caddy calipers for this application ($300 a set) that is said to work great for those of us who like having an ebrake.
However, even after the conversion, I did not think my brakes adequate. That is why I converted the entire truck to use hydroboost, which produces 4 or more times force. Now the brakes are in the new century. Good luck.
Do a search for: Dana 60 disc conversion.