Is DIY plug changing advisable?
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 322
Likes: 2
Is DIY plug changing advisable?
Calling around to a few local Ford dealerships to ask what they get for changing plugs on vans is giving me agida.
"You're looking at anywhere from $550 to $800 depending on how many plugs break."
Do they break often?
"Yea, two broke today doing a V8"
Is it worth it to try and do this yourself (myself) or am I likely to end up with a E-350 V-10 van, that does not run, sitting in my driveway?
BTW: Where do they break? I assume there is a threaded metal barrel with a hex head that is all one piece so where is the break occurring, anyway?
"You're looking at anywhere from $550 to $800 depending on how many plugs break."
Do they break often?
"Yea, two broke today doing a V8"
Is it worth it to try and do this yourself (myself) or am I likely to end up with a E-350 V-10 van, that does not run, sitting in my driveway?
BTW: Where do they break? I assume there is a threaded metal barrel with a hex head that is all one piece so where is the break occurring, anyway?
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 711
Likes: 2
From: Outside of Memphis, TN
Its totally worth having a shop do it. The V10 van engine packaging is a total freaking nightmare, and if you break a plug off you are in for a hell of a time. The 4.9/5.0/5.8/7.5 engines do NOT suffer from this issue. You can also incorrectly torque a plug and launch it. Doing the timecert/helicoil on a van engine is... challenging.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
Likes: 1,657
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Depending on your skill level tool selection plus infinite patience changing plugs isn't a huge technical challenge Scooter--I have a list of about 20 FTE threads about this very topic. Most who've tackled this went in with lots of trepidation but after its completed they find its not exactly brain surgery. The biggest issues you'll have with a V8 or V10 in an E Van is room to work from the inside--its just not that plentiful for us. I simply remove the front seats--two Torx bolts, two 18mm nuts, disconnect the seat belt pre-tensioner and they nearly fall out. 
The resulting space makes this a LOT easier to do!
Following simple procedures makes this a lot less scary than it needs to be but reading of others experiences helped me through my first time at this.
The stealerships have been long suspected of creating their own damaged plug hole threads and charging the customer for that repair too. Have also heard of various non-guarantees where once this is done and a plug is launched the stealership charging for that repair too, no such thing as it NOT being their fault.
I can PM the list of links to changing plugs if you like---it might take up a lot of room here---lemme know!
The resulting space makes this a LOT easier to do!Following simple procedures makes this a lot less scary than it needs to be but reading of others experiences helped me through my first time at this.
The stealerships have been long suspected of creating their own damaged plug hole threads and charging the customer for that repair too. Have also heard of various non-guarantees where once this is done and a plug is launched the stealership charging for that repair too, no such thing as it NOT being their fault.
I can PM the list of links to changing plugs if you like---it might take up a lot of room here---lemme know!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 419
Likes: 2
From: Lakefield Ontario
I did the pulls on my 97 5.4L last summer with little stress and left myself lots of time to do it. No were near as easy as my Mustang but it is not as hard as everyone here states.
You need to unbolt what ever is in your way so you will need a selection of 1/4 and 3/8 sockets and extensions as well as stubby and regular length wrenches.
Take your time and make sure you are perfectly perpendicular to the plug when you take them out, no flex extensions. My old auto shop teachers told us about cars that had plugs snapping (not a new issue) he applies slow pressure to remove the plug, if it is not moving he would tighten the plug just a bit, then remove. This breaks the carbon seal.
Get a digital camera and snap pictures of what you are removing and put the bolts and other loose items in a zip lock bag that you label.
You need to unbolt what ever is in your way so you will need a selection of 1/4 and 3/8 sockets and extensions as well as stubby and regular length wrenches.
Take your time and make sure you are perfectly perpendicular to the plug when you take them out, no flex extensions. My old auto shop teachers told us about cars that had plugs snapping (not a new issue) he applies slow pressure to remove the plug, if it is not moving he would tighten the plug just a bit, then remove. This breaks the carbon seal.
Get a digital camera and snap pictures of what you are removing and put the bolts and other loose items in a zip lock bag that you label.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Or you can do what i did and get a 4.2 So simple even a caveman can do it. All kidding aside, I consider myself an accomplished wrench spinner but I would leave this to the stealership.And I would make sure it's understood that ANY plug that breaks is on them.Labor included.If they're going to gouge me 100.00/hr. they pay for their mistakes.Cheers
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Thechadlee
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