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First time here, I thrilled to have found the site!
Just just bought a 1988 Bronco XLT, 5.8 L engine, and natch, have questions.
It was orig. configured by the first owner as a towing vehicle (that is why I got is, for towing a horse trailer). I was wondering how I determine what ratio diffs I have in it? 3 sp. Auto trans, if that makes a difference. Prev. owner sd. he got about 11 MPG. It doesnt pull the hills quite as exhuberently as I had anticipated. Ive got it close to floored (not quite), the tranny is in 2nd (its choice,not mine) and its running about 25 MPH with a 4,000 lb load roughly on the back (2 horses and a 1500 lb trailer.)
Also, Ive noticed that the stock oil guage reads lower than I would like... the highest Ive seen is on the "O" in NORMAL which is about the first 1/4 or so of the normal range. Ive seen it lower than that, hovering just to the left of "N".
The Bronco has 148K on it, about 80K on this engine, the prev. two owners were meticulous about maintenance (the Bronco looks showroom now... well,... did until we started hauling horses over the wkend...).
Thanks for any comments or feedback. 'Preciate it.
you more than likely have 3.55 gears in it. it should handle that trailer with no problem. i tow my 5500lb boat around and have no issues and i've got the 302. note this is also before i made the mods to my lift and gears. throw some 3.73 or 4.10s in and see if that helps, which it should.
i didn't have to do mine because a friend of mine is a mechanic. if you're a pretty good grease monkey then you should be ok, just get all of the right parts from the beginning. also the break in period is very important!!!!!! get the code off yours and i'm sure one of us on here can veirfy.
i believe that on a 1988 your oilpressure gauge is a fake. it is just a switch and ther is a resistor straped a cross the back of the gauge to keep it from going all the way up.
you have to crawl under your rig to find out what ratio you have for sure. It will be a thin metal tag that stretches from one bolt to the other on the front of your rear end on the passenger side. it should look something like this.
############### ########
X XX #######
The X's will be your ratio. If there is a big gap you have an open rearend, if there is a letter of some kind you have a traction device. (it is usually an L)
If you want more oil pressure, switch to thicker oil, it helps take up the space between your berrongs better.
The sticker on the drivers' door jam say its an H9 axle. Im assuming it has not been modded, and other documenation indicates this is a 3.55, since the 4.11 was not an option with the 5.8L engine in '88... or so the spec sheet I was looking at indicated...
As for the oil pressure, the oil was just changed at a WalMart (owner tossed that in for free, so I can't complain), 10/30 dinolube of some kind... guess I wont worry until I hear something knocking...
Just don't forget if you change your gear ratio you have to do both front and back axle's or you'll be in for one heck of a surprise the first time you try to use 4X4.
Your best off taking your truck to an experienced shop to have the gears changed. It is pretty tough to setup a ring and pinion by yourself if you don't know what your doing. I had a friend who has done several Mustang rears help me with the rear on my Bronco and I picked up a differential pumpkin for the front out of an 88 light duty F-250 that bolted right in.
I thought about taking my Dodge PU into a shop to have the same thing done... the owner of the shop wasnt too eager to do it, wanted about $2K for the work, this seemed a touch high to me, so I never pursued it.
Im thinking $500 is my limit for this work -- it has that much importance to me, but not a lot more.
Dennis
Did you notice that your pic doesn't match your diagram? The diagram shows the build date code following the ratio, but the tag has the ring gear size there (9"). Just FYI.
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