Trouble Getting Codes
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Trouble Getting Codes
Wow! what a site! I know you all are busy so i will keep it short.
My son and i have a 85 f150 short bed with a carbed 302 that we are rebuilding for him to drive when he becomes of age. We have run into a snag, the timeing does not seem to be advancing.
So after reviewing the last 2 years worth of posts i decided to pull the computer codes. Well as soon i hooked up the code scaner the light went on. Key on or off the led just stayed lit. So thought i would go the voltmeter route. I don't remember the exact reading but i got basicaly the same result, just a constant voltage.
Is the computer dead? or ???
Wes
My son and i have a 85 f150 short bed with a carbed 302 that we are rebuilding for him to drive when he becomes of age. We have run into a snag, the timeing does not seem to be advancing.
So after reviewing the last 2 years worth of posts i decided to pull the computer codes. Well as soon i hooked up the code scaner the light went on. Key on or off the led just stayed lit. So thought i would go the voltmeter route. I don't remember the exact reading but i got basicaly the same result, just a constant voltage.
Is the computer dead? or ???
Wes
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Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Memphis, TN
Trouble Getting Codes
I don't think the '85 V-8 carburetors were computer-controlled. Just the I-6 that year, and some of the earlier ('81-83) V-8s. If I'm wrong, you should be able to get the codes by this procedure.
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Trouble Getting Codes
Thanks for the reply Steve.
That is the procedure i am utilizing for the KOEO test however the voltmeter never moves - just stays constant (don't remember the voltage though... sign of age i guess...).
If its not computer controled then what advances the timing?
The distributer does not have any type of vacume hoses and no mech weights & springs either, just a electrical plug.
Thanks again...
Wes
That is the procedure i am utilizing for the KOEO test however the voltmeter never moves - just stays constant (don't remember the voltage though... sign of age i guess...).
If its not computer controled then what advances the timing?
The distributer does not have any type of vacume hoses and no mech weights & springs either, just a electrical plug.
Thanks again...
Wes
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From: Memphis, TN
Trouble Getting Codes
So does it have a computer? I assume it has a test connector since you're using that procedure, which means it should have an EEC-IV stashed somewhere. Maybe under the seat, inside the dash over the gas pedal, or beside the e-brake. I'd find it and try to install the jumper & test light/meter closer to the actual computer; it's possible the wires to the test connector are bad and you're not actually entering self-test mode or the STO signal isn't making it back to your meter.
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Trouble Getting Codes
I will look for the computer tonight.
And yes, it does have the test connectors setting on the passenger side wheel well.
I got to thinking about your previous post and thought i should tell you the trans is a C4 which from what i understand is not stock? I would guess that if a prevous owner was willing to swap transmissions that they would be willing to swap motors too...
anyway, thanks again...
Wes
And yes, it does have the test connectors setting on the passenger side wheel well.
I got to thinking about your previous post and thought i should tell you the trans is a C4 which from what i understand is not stock? I would guess that if a prevous owner was willing to swap transmissions that they would be willing to swap motors too...
anyway, thanks again...
Wes
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From: Virginia
Trouble Getting Codes
If you don't have a vacuum advance on your distributor, you definitely have or had a computer. It might tell you on the sticker on the radiator too. It may say EECIV or something. If the previous owner has butchered the system, then it's probably no hope in getting it working. I would swap distributors to a duraspark II set-up if you find half of the system is missing.
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Trouble Getting Codes
Thanks for the replys guys...
I found the computer... it is under the dash just above the accel pedel, just like you said Steve! Thanks.
It has a EEC-IV on it.
So, I got one of those code testers and pluged it into the test port per the instructions which match those on Steves http pages and all i got was a steady light.
No matter what i do, key on, off, running or not the light just stays lit. What does this mean???
The manual i have does not have any type of wire schematic in it(chiltons). Any sugestions on where i might find one?
As for the swap to the duraspark ii, i need to pass emissions here in AZ. I have been considering swapping the carb, intake and ignition system but i am not sure that i will be able to pass the im240 test here. I would be able to keep the air pump and EGR system intact so i don't think the visual inspection would be a issue, just don't know about the sniffer test... Any thoughts?
Wes
I found the computer... it is under the dash just above the accel pedel, just like you said Steve! Thanks.
It has a EEC-IV on it.
So, I got one of those code testers and pluged it into the test port per the instructions which match those on Steves http pages and all i got was a steady light.
No matter what i do, key on, off, running or not the light just stays lit. What does this mean???
The manual i have does not have any type of wire schematic in it(chiltons). Any sugestions on where i might find one?
As for the swap to the duraspark ii, i need to pass emissions here in AZ. I have been considering swapping the carb, intake and ignition system but i am not sure that i will be able to pass the im240 test here. I would be able to keep the air pump and EGR system intact so i don't think the visual inspection would be a issue, just don't know about the sniffer test... Any thoughts?
Wes
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From: Virginia
Trouble Getting Codes
I've never had to get a sniffer test, but I remember some guys on here saying they passed, even with a non-emissions carb. Holley does sell emissions type 4bbl's and non-emissions types if you wanted to put a little 600cfm carb and intake on it. I would do a little research into how much it will cost to fix your system you have now, vs new stuff. I know the old systems with the carbs are not supported as much as the newer FI systems, so not many people know how to work on them.
But I firmly believe a new carb and distributor system, properly adjusted, would have less emissions than the original computerized system with an old carb that didn't work. Maybe somebody who has passed the sniffer test will write in.
But I firmly believe a new carb and distributor system, properly adjusted, would have less emissions than the original computerized system with an old carb that didn't work. Maybe somebody who has passed the sniffer test will write in.
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From: Memphis, TN
Trouble Getting Codes
Originally posted by 85project
I got one of those code testers ...
No matter what i do, key on, off, running or not the light just stays lit. What does this mean???
The manual i have does not have any type of wire schematic in it(chiltons). Any sugestions on where i might find one?
I got one of those code testers ...
No matter what i do, key on, off, running or not the light just stays lit. What does this mean???
The manual i have does not have any type of wire schematic in it(chiltons). Any sugestions on where i might find one?
It means the computer is NOT entering the diagnostic mode, or the STO circuit is broken.
Get the Haynes manual. It has the full wiring diagram.
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