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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 01:12 PM
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73 302 2B

I want a little more torque, thinking on a cam, may swap up to a 4 barrel but the 2 is runnin fine, it's in a van. I was thinking maybe I'd be better off getting the heads that are on it rebuilt rather than swapping, or is it worth it to upgrade. I have a friend with an injected 86 5.0 from one of his van's, it needs a rebuild, should I get that and rebuild it for my van, doubt I can fit injection in the old doghouse, but would the engine be better? I've not got unlimited funds, I have to pay as I go, I plan to do this one time, has to be right for my needs, I want low end power for mileage, city driving most of the time.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 09:03 PM
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Well that 86 will have a roller block, although it'll have a flat tappet cam in it. The heads are better than the 73's. You can always swap the carb manifold onto it too. But I'd replace the flat tappet cam with an RV grind roller cam, or an F4TE roller from a 94-97 pickup or van, this cam was also used in the 96-2001 Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0, it'll make it a far smoother runner and give it more power & torque overall than your 73 motor. May even improve the mileage in that van, and I know that is something sorely needed in those old E series vans (had one in high school)
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 09:43 PM
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Are you sure it'll accept a roller cam, I wouldn't mind that, it reduced some drag, I thought the 73 heads had a smaller combustion chamber tho. If I could get the intake to fit, I'd love fuel injection in it, swap in a MAF and custom burn, I want mileage and power, hoping the gearing is 4.10, great for city driving. Now an injected cam is different than the carb version, so I gotta see which I'm going in with.
I would love a FI 4.9 but don't have one and just not interested in all the extra stuff needed to swap over to it, the torque from it is beyond the grip of a 302.
I bought an HEI distributor, am waiting to get my van back to install it, see what kind of improvement and power over the old points type in it, get dual exhaust on it too, has restrictive 2 1/4" single pipe on it now.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 07:52 AM
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All the 302 blocks from 1986 til the end were roller blocks. I have run across one though that had partially formed lifter valley spyder bolt bosses that were too small to be drilled and tapped for the 1/4" hold down bolts. It was given a flat tappet cam at the factory. As far as differences in EFI vs carb cams ? The EFI cams work great with a carb, actually better than the carb cams did. Especially in the lower rpms.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:28 AM
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I saw quite a few nice ones on Summit, I would really love a set of heads, a matched top end kit would be great but I could get a complete rebuild including machine work for what that cost. Yeah, I want a low cam, gas prices will never go down, no way I want a high rev engine again, my 5.4 is killing me now 9-10 MPG high test, been tuned and opened up on the exhaust and intake.
Would I be better with a 4 barrel, I like the simple Motorcraft 2 barrel, I know they go all the way to 500 CFM? I cruise around but still suffer the urge to get on one every once and a while, Edelbrock had a nice 2 barrel intake once.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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You absolutely don't need heads for what you're doing. If your heads have the Thermactor bumps inside the ports, then use a good carbide bit and a drill and remove em, that's the only mod you need done to the stock heads for your purposes. You might also want to keep the 2 bbl stock intake, the Edelbrock would be a waste of cash. If you want an aluminum intake, look for an early 80's 2 bbl from a 302. I'm no fan of the Autolite carbs, I never had much luck with em. I'd use a Holley 350 cfm 2 bbl.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 10:47 PM
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So which is it, the 73 heads, or stock 86, I may smooth the ports with a grinder either way, just to make a better flow, not certain on intake and carb combos yet.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 11:46 PM
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If fuel economy is your goal then any of the roller cams that came in the 5.0 HO's out of a Mustang will do you fine. The late Explorer V8s got good cams as well but the Mustang cam can be had for almost nothing. Many guys over the years have removed them to install higher lift cams in their cars so they have the stock cam sitting on a shelf gathering dust & rust.

I picked up a stock 5.0 HO cam and a '93 Cobra cam for $50 shipped to my door.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 12:03 AM
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I need low end torque for towing tho, not gonna be using a factory cam, once my van project is done, I have to look into turning an enclosed trailer into a camper, or I'd not worry about building another engine for it.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 06:34 AM
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For bottom end torque, you can't beat the factory F4TE roller cam. This is basically an RV cam, but from Ford. The specs are .422/.445 lift 256/266* advertised duration 116* LSA. Run it with 1.7 rockers and the lifts go to .445/.473
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by maples01
I need low end torque for towing tho, not gonna be using a factory cam, once my van project is done, I have to look into turning an enclosed trailer into a camper, or I'd not worry about building another engine for it.
Get that compression ratio out of the 8's , either with smaller cc heads or flat top pistons . Low compression is the #1 power killer in my book .
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 11:44 AM
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Nigh compression requires high test gas, where I'm at now with the 70's engine, that and the lead required to cool and lube the valves, I've not experienced pre-detonation yet, but the timing is set high.
So which cam is that, the Mustang or Exploder 5.0?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by maples01
High compression requires high test gas, ?
10:1 would do you in but 9.0:1 to 9.25:1 would help a lot .

Dynamic compression can fool you since the valve opening and closings are not calculated . Static compression is your actual running compression .
7.5 to 8.5 to 1 static works on pump gas .

Some times you have options and some times you don't . If you don't have to go into the bottom end it is best to let sleeping dogs lie . ($$$)
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 03:51 PM
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Yeah, weighing the options as I'll be looking to rebuild the 86 FI block and heads maybe, unless I pony the dough up for a reman, machine work is costly, I do and don't want one bored out, don't have unlimited funds, I have to save from my small income. For budget, what year had a 4 barrel intake and carb, pref an aluminum intake, early 80's Mustang?
I'll be driving as is other than small upgrades as I go into another engine to swap in, not rebuilding the one in it, runs great, no smoking right now, got an HEI for it.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by maples01
Yeah, weighing the options as I'll be looking to rebuild the 86 FI block and heads maybe, unless I pony the dough up for a reman, machine work is costly, I do and don't want one bored out, don't have unlimited funds, I have to save from my small income. For budget, what year had a 4 barrel intake and carb, pref an aluminum intake, early 80's Mustang?
I'll be driving as is other than small upgrades as I go into another engine to swap in, not rebuilding the one in it, runs great, no smoking right now, got an HEI for it.
Since you're on a budget, a roller 5.0 pulled from a 94-97 pickup or van would be the cheapest route, these had the F4TE roller cams, and E7TE heads, all you'd need to do is swap on a 4 bbl intake and steel geared distributor to carb it. You'll then need to decide where to go with the FEAD (Front End Accessory Drive), these motors used a reverse rotation waterpump and matching timing cover (different from your 73) so to use your 73 FEAD, you'd need to swap everything from the block forward. The newer timing covers also use locating dowels surrounding the bottom bolts, your timing cover lacks this feature, but you can always swap to an 80-up Crown Vic timing cover that has the dowel feature, this makes aligning the front seal a no brainer. You'd also need to grab the flexplate for the newer motor too. The 83-85 Mustang HO motors had an aluminum 4 bbl intake that would fit your needs.
 
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