Getting ready to attemp a 12v conversion on my 54 F600. I have one question before I begin. On the heater motor, wouldnt it be easier to reduse the voltage rather than replace the motor?

 

Changing a 51 Ford F1 from a 6 to a 12 volt..... should I use te 1956 wiring Diagram ?

 

I think the 56 diagram would be different from the 51. The 51 components (gauges, motors, etc) are not the same as 12 volt, so the voltage will need to be lowered to use those components with 12 volts. The wiring harness should be made for the year truck you have. The wiring diagram for the 51 should be used IMHO. There's one in the Shop Manual, but I also used the laminated 11x17 diagram from Classic Car Wiring. Full Color Laminated Wiring Diagrams for Classic FORD Trucks See post #6 in this thread.

I've read on here that you can use the starter motor with 12 volts if you don't crank it long. Heater motor would have to be stepped down, as will the gauges as mentioned earlier. And electric wiper motor if you have that, needs to be stepped down. And you'll need a 12 volt alternator or generator to charge the battery.

Others can comment on their favorite methods of reducing the voltage, or just search FTE for 12 volt conversion threads (there are many).

I'm still on 6 volts, so others with experience can better answer you.

 

Wiring them in series won't work, because the way a horn works is to make/break repeatedly as the diaphragm vibrates. So the second horn alternately sees 12v and 0 volts. If the horns' coils are internally grounded (only one wire to each horn), you just flat can't hook them in series anyway.

Unless you plan to blow the horn contantly, 6v horns will last on 12v as long as you adjusted them on 12v. They will be loud, and you may not be able to get the tone you want, but they'll work. Just don't lay on the horn for 30 seconds or anything. Likewise the relay will work fine as long as you don't overdo it.

 

Hello everyone!


I ended up with a Kwik-Wire Ford 14circuit kit for Christmas, in process of mounting the fuse panel and wire sorting.


I just started mucking with this earlier this week so we'll see how this goes. I contacted the company (via email) and asked a few questions as this is my first "kit" install, they were very quick to respond.
I got a ratchet type open barrel crimper, they suggested I crimp and solder for a solid connection, I got some heat shrink too I'll add as well. This looks like a really good kit, but I'll probably need some extra items. it comes with wires I'd never use either, they suggested finding a good spot for a terminal strip and mount them there (for future use and safety). Stay tuned hope to make some progress within the next few weeks and I'll try to post some pics.


Anyone have any previous experience / advise I'd appreciate it!
Thanks yall!
T

 

Thanks for returning to your thread. It's nice to see this instead of a dead end thread.

Good luck with your wiring.

 

• Separate the harness wires into bundles based on where they're going. (Nose, tail, dash, engine, etc.)
• Run all of the wires before you cut any of the wires.
• Whether you run them in the original locations or not, make sure the wires are protected from sharp edges, pinch points, moving parts, and heat.
• Make sure everything is secured so wires won't be falling down later.
• Don't cut the wires too short. You may need a little wiggle room later. (slack to remove headlights, dash, etc.)
• It doesn't hurt to install some waterproof plugs so assemblies can be removed without having to un-wire them. (Dog house, engine, bed, etc.)
• Take good notes as you go.
• Don't be shy about asking questions of the manufacturer or folks here.

Take your time, and lots of pictures.

 

Hey Scottie and Effie,


thanks for the replies and information. I'm taking photos as I go but so far haven't really done anything but lot's of wire routing/sorting "knot removals", and seem to have done this multiple times,
Every time I check it out It seems I find one that should go this way or that.
I want it to look smoothly run to wherever it's got to go, may help troubleshooting later as well. (not that looks are going to matter with the state my Trucks in right now anyways!).
As I get deeper I'll def post some photos, I seem to only be able to do this at work on lunch verses at home, my home internet connection and FTE don't seem to play well. So stay tuned!
T

 

Hey Guys, I do have one question at this point,
the fuse panel is mounted and the wires are "roughly run" to the areas they will be.


Shouldn't I be able to hook up the power and hookup/test specific things like the headlight switch, lights, starter, coil etc?


I'm "thinking" that if I hook up these items a few at a time, test, document the connections, that I can go back and neat run/wire rap/loom what needs it and re-crimp the wires and scratch it off my list.


it was just an idea, this is a bit overwhelming but I think I can do it!


if so, i'll definably make sure the loose wire ends are covered so no accidents occur.


any thoughts or suggestion on that?
Thanks so much yall!
T

 

That's actually how I would do it. One circuit at a time. If there is a problem, get it worked out before going on to the next. Makes a lot of sense.

 

Found the source of the intermittent "smoke".
apparently the lug was loose on "B" who knows how long it was that way.
this was the Old wiring.
T

 

Hey Folks


Still going at this wire harness install, after staring at It for a few weeks and multiple go's at "sorting" what wire should go where, I started doing a rough install, got the headlight switch and dimmer sorted out and ohm tested for continuity the headlights, tail lights and dimmer setup.


Went on kwikwire's web page and downloaded a instruction manual that was for some reason not with my kit (says it does all of their kits) so been using that for a path/plan method.


Glad I'm rough hookup and testing this because it's made me realize, they give you plenty of wire, almost too much for this truck, except for the dimmer switch hookup, it's a bit tight.
As someone mentioned possibly making a wire harness plug connection for certain items, the dimmer may be a good candidate.


Also I've been trying to decide how to run the wires permanently as before there were a bunch right on top of the motors intake, I'm going to try to clean up the wire runs, which would make pulling the engine easier if/when I get to that point.


This obviously is going to take me a while, but i'm not really in a hurry here.
The other thing I realized is those double barrel crimp pliers while good for what you'd use them for, there aren't many "blade connections" on this truck, mostly "eyelet" or open hook type electrical connections (like for the headlight switch).
I'll probably purchase some in the double barrel crimp type so I get a good crimp on the finish job, but only blade type crimps were included with the kit. (not a big deal though).


For my first time of doing a install like this, it's not been that bad, deciphering the switch's and how to hook this harness to it was the fun part but if you're a better mechanic than I am it's probably gravy to you guys!


just don't get overwhelmed with all the wire spaghetti coming out of every hole in the dash, hung on the doors, window crank, etc! LOL it will eventually got somewhere!


T

 

Hey everyone!
Well I'm at a crossroads; The alternator is a decision point,

Do I go 1 wire alternator?
(2 types I've found)
OR
Stick with old setup using the External Volt Regulator?

The issue that's bothering me is "on the road" replacement in an emergency & The other argument I'm reading on is some say "stay 3 wire" some say go 1 wire.

If I get the fancy 1 wire alt w/orginial type mount from speedway, it's $360+ dollars.
Powergen 1949-53 Flathead Ford One Wire Alternator, 12 Volt - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors


If I go with a 1 wire replacement type similar to what I have and it fits my mount: (an example)
GM Chrome One Wire Alternator, 60 Amp - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

Doubt I'd be able to get any of this locally.
(but I'm still searching too so I could be wrong).

Someone offered the 1 wire as a suggestion, but it's physical mount is my issue. Not the wiring part but with the Mount I'm using.
(well that and how to get the amp guage to work with a 1 wire setup)??

It appears, I've still got the generator mount, with a (what Advance auto) determined to be a 67' Impala Alternator, It's sitting on the Generator mount bolted with 1 large bolt and a long thin "pin" bolt (where they removed one of the alt's 4 "small" assy bolts and replaced it with this long bolt so it wont rock in it's mount.
(not sure if this is a runner up to "rig of the century") or if it's an old school method of adapting a alternator to a flathead generator mount
This truck has been this way since the 70's.

Someone loaned me a 70' Chevelle Alternator to "test mount" and or use it but it's "externally regulated" alternator so same as I have, just
the body of it is slightly different.

My thoughts;
I'd go 1 wire if I can find one that will fit my current mount.

Plan b: go with speedway's $$$ alt and stock type engine mount.
Looks nice more "stockish" but that's not really a big deal here, possibly
easier mount, just costly and probably not available locally.

Plan C: rewire what I have (as it was working upon old wire harness removal) and use the external voltage regulator.

I know this is a bit deep but do yall think here?
cause right now it's got me on the fence as to which way to go. Not thinking "how clean the engine bay is" or whatever but more ease of replacement on failure, and future part availability. I know adding the ext voltage regulator is more wires, but I have a drawing on how it was, should be able to put it back no problem.


OK, I know i'm asking for everything here but any suggestions?
What did yall do?
if you went 1 wire, what brand/type, How'd you mount??


Thanks folks! I'll try to search the site too for pics.


T

 

Can you post a pic of your current setup? I've seen several alternators (mostly Fords I think) adapted where they used the stock generator mount, drilled a hole for the locating pin in the correct place on the alt, and used the original strap to hold it in. With some of the import small alternators that is definitely possible, but they are $$$.

I have a 1-wire I bought from a place on eBay called Certified Electric. Absolutely no problems with it, and my first 12v battery lasted 11 years with it. The whole point of an alternator is that you won't need to touch it for years. That said, if you have trouble on the road, a GM or a common Ford alternator is absolutely the one to have. I wouldn't use a PowerGen if I had heavy electrical use, I can't see how they can possibly dissipate much heat.

 

Hey ALBUQ F1- Will do some photo posts, uploading some now.
I haven't removed the alt from the engine yet but I'll show ya what I can till that happens.
stay tuned!
T