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Possible fan clutch problem?

 
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:23 AM
Noodlez
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Cool Possible fan clutch problem?

Hi I have a 2000 f250 and I noticed when i leave the truck parked idling it over heats but when i drive it is it totally fine. I did notice the fan is not spinning at all. Is there some fuse or really?
 
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:02 AM
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First welcome to FTE! Now on to your problem. It's a mechanical clutch so the only thing you can do is replace it.
 
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:08 AM
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If you have a V10, I have one from Motorcraft new in the box that I can make you a great deal on. I bought it for my '99 but the problem lay elsewhere. PM me for details. If it isn't a V10 it won't fit. Welcome to FTE!
 
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:54 AM
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Even with bad clutch the engine driven fan would spin a bit, so stopped blades would indicate electric fan.
Not knowing what exactly is it, it is hard to give advise, but checking the fuse would be good start.
 
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:25 PM
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Thank you very much for the help, I have the 5.4 engine. I just looked and it seems the guy I bought it from installed an electric fan. I just climbed in the engine and saw 3 loose spade clips so I attached them where I think they go. they are all on a block with a red led that is lit and it says flex-a-lite on it. It has a 30 amp fuse that i checked and is working but i did trace a wire that looks to be attached to a black and white set that isn't plugged into anything towards the bottom left of the engine. I looked but could not find where it plugged in.
 
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:08 PM
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With custom fan, I can only guess it has to have thermal switch somewhere on engine block, or head.
I would advise you to observe the temperatures on hot days as the electric fan might be undersized. 30 amp =360wats max, or about 1/2 hp. The fan on my diesel was said to take 40 hp from the engine. I doubt it is that much, but still numbers to compare.
It sucks to stop 1/2 up the grade and wait 20 minutes for the engine to cool down.
 
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Kajtek1 View Post
Even with bad clutch the engine driven fan would spin a bit, so stopped blades would indicate electric fan.
Not knowing what exactly is it, it is hard to give advise, but checking the fuse would be good start.
Good point. Even if all the fluid leaked it would still spin at near the cold setting speed. I guess could have been completely stripped on the inside but that seems unlikely.
Originally Posted by Noodlez View Post
Thank you very much for the help, I have the 5.4 engine. I just looked and it seems the guy I bought it from installed an electric fan. I just climbed in the engine and saw 3 loose spade clips so I attached them where I think they go. they are all on a block with a red led that is lit and it says flex-a-lite on it. It has a 30 amp fuse that i checked and is working but i did trace a wire that looks to be attached to a black and white set that isn't plugged into anything towards the bottom left of the engine. I looked but could not find where it plugged in.
Do you know the part number? Looking on Flex-A-Lite's web site they have instructions for all their systems. Just guessing I think it's kit 270. Reading the instructions should give you a good idea where to look.
Originally Posted by Kajtek1 View Post
With custom fan, I can only guess it has to have thermal switch somewhere on engine block, or head.
I would advise you to observe the temperatures on hot days as the electric fan might be undersized. 30 amp =360wats max, or about 1/2 hp. The fan on my diesel was said to take 40 hp from the engine. I doubt it is that much, but still numbers to compare.
It sucks to stop 1/2 up the grade and wait 20 minutes for the engine to cool down.
There has been much debate in the past on the V10 forum about converting to an electric fan cooling system. I think you could design a large enough electric powered system but not sure in the end there would be enough efficiency gain to offset the cost (even if done as OE) of both the material and conversion from mechanical-to-electric power. There is a benefit I can see in being able to exactly control the fan speed but not sure what can be gained in efficiency by this.
Anyway if I was the OP I would look at switching back to a mechanical system if I did any towing at all. The cost lost in fuel (if any), to me, is well worth it to know I have an effective cooling system when I need it most.
 
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:40 AM
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Thank you guys for all your help! I just checked my wiring to the picture in the link for 270 and its the same except my ground is above the wire they say is purple in the picture not on top. However when I touched it to the area they have shown the fan did kick on with the truck off so if nothing I know the fan works. Also the harness that was unplugged goes to the ac compressor so in the morning I have to find its location.
 
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Old 03-22-2012, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Monster-4 View Post

There has been much debate in the past on the V10 forum about converting to an electric fan cooling system. I think you could design a large enough electric powered system but not sure in the end there would be enough efficiency gain to offset the cost (even if done as OE) of both the material and conversion from mechanical-to-electric power. There is a benefit I can see in being able to exactly control the fan speed but not sure what can be gained in efficiency by this.
Anyway if I was the OP I would look at switching back to a mechanical system if I did any towing at all. The cost lost in fuel (if any), to me, is well worth it to know I have an effective cooling system when I need it most.
My diesel sedan has belt driven fan with clutch and than electric aux fans in front of radiator that mainly should help with AC efficiency.
But after replacing radiator 3 years go I noticed my engine runs pretty cool, so when the fan clutch seized 2 years ago, I removed it completely and drive for 2 years without it. Even at 101F driving at 70 mph the engine stays at normal temperatures. It got about 20 degrees higher when I was in heavy traffic pulling small trailer.
But than I don't use sedan for pulling trailers that weight 150% of the vehicle weight.
BTW when I was replacing the radiator on Mercedes, was really surprised that the radiator for 3l engine is about the same size I do have on 7.3 PS. It is not visible from the outside, but the radiator behind front bumper is the lowest point under the car and the highest point in the engine bay.
 
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:11 PM
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Thank you for all your help I followed the diagram you gave me and found the socket for the compressor and today everything worked!
 
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:57 PM
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Glad you got it fixed. Reps for reporting back.
 
 
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