302 built for power
\\m//now this is my kind of question!
First off, must it be 302 ci, or just have a 302 block? I'll assume a 302 block (8.200" deck height) is required.
Block: Dart Iron Eagle, bored .185" over (max safe bore for this block: 4.185") Displacement with overbore: 330 ci. (5.4L)
Crank/rods: go with forged H-beam rods and a forged crank, all spin balanced by a pro. Total seal rings, and hypereutectic slugs (lighter, with adequate strength. Forged slugs are not necessary since no nitrous or forced induction is present). Use 9.5:1 static compression so you can run on pump gas (93 octane). Run a Comp Xtreme Roller 266 cam with a Jesel belt drive system, and a CSI electric water pump. Go with a standard volume oil pump, utilizing an oil pan with a full windage tray, and fully baffled. Go with Crane Gold Race roller rockers (1.6 ratio), and Trick Flow CromeMoly pushrods. Stock roller lifters will be fine. MSD Pro-billet distributor #8479 so you can keep your vacuum advance for better street manners, and a Programmable Digital 7 ignition with an MSD E-core style coil, channeled by Moroso Blue Max 11mm wires. The intake should be handled by Vic Edelbrock: go with a Performer RPM air gap intake fed by an Edelbrock Thunder AVS 750 carb. The heads should be AFR 205 aluminum, and always use ARP studs to keep 'em sealed up nice and tight. Use full length headers, and match it up with a converter that stalls around 2400 RPM, and about a 3.89 gear, and you'll be cooking. I'd expect 450 HP with all motor, and even more with a bigger carb. You can save some serious money by using a true roller timing chain and a mechanical water pump with only a very little bit less power. This motor will have perfect street manners, idle like a stocker, and kick a whole lot of big block *** while it revvs to 7,000 at the drop of the hammer. Hope you have $6,000 to spend on a motor! TK (FTE's Aftermarket Parts Champion)



