Dang...I wonder if that's what is wrong with mine. I put a Weiand manifold on my 460 and now all of a sudden it don't shift right!! I will have to go look where that vacuum tree ties in....plenum or runner

 

Jim, they used to, but I haven't seen one in quite a while. You could make one if you have a thick enough spacer. I used to do that at my shop, just drill and tap for a fitting.

 

Yes, after checking again today I saw that 2166 had moved the port to the #4 runner, thanks! Also, is the A.I.R. check valve meant to be open like that or is there something missing?

 

Also, upon removing my intake I found that there was black pan that had the intake gaskets attached to it that was located in between the intake at the top of the engine. It doesn't look like it has anything to do with the air flow coming from the intake to the heads. My question is should I replace it or just discard it? I was just going to clean it and reuse it, but it looks a little rough on some of the edges and I'm afraid it wouldn't seal properly. If I do need to replace it, where can I find one? Thanks in advance guys!

 

That's called a valley Pan and don't reuse it. Most aftermarket manifolds state not to use it as it will interfere with the non-stock manifold. Not sure about your performer.
If you want to use it, get a new one...you can get them at any parts store when ordering intake gaskets. They will be either with or without the pan

 

The Edelbrock instructions are specific about not using one.
Aluminum expands more than the old cast iron manifold.

It's purpose was to keep oil from cooking on the bottom of the heated exhaust crossover.
You have a non-EGR manifold anyhow...

 

I know they also serve a great purpose of catching any crap from falling into the lifter valley when you pull your manifold off. Not the entended purpose but a nice side benefit they sure hold those intake gaskets in place nicely too But yeah I've never reinstalled one...I actually have kept an old one just to use as a cover to keep stiff out while working on it...makes a nice "lid"

 

I don't use the rubber end gaskets either.
Always a big bead of "the Right Stuff" silicone.

I put a little wipe of silicone around the water passages too.

This works for me.

 

Sorry if I missed this...If the emissions A.I.R. pumps are stripped off your truck there is nothing to go to it.
There would be a temperature controlled vacuum valve between the pump and the check valve.

You can see this on the vacuum routing sticker if you still have one.

If you want to remove the crossover pipe from the back of the heads you will need to plug the port on either side.
IIRC you can use a very short 5/8-11 bolt.

 

I tried that and ended up with oil running down the front and back of the engine so went back with the rubber gaskets...I'm sure I probably just didn't do it right or use enough sealer. I know by popular demand, your method seems to be the preferred and I do it on my chevy's. But on my 460 I just didn't have luck...or skill
Definitely some sealant around the coolant passages too!!

 

On the AIR system (you should have asked me when you picked up the distributor) the back end of the heads should have an unthreaded hole the pipe goes into. I have my old heads where we could have measured it. The bolts that hold the retainer clamps are 7/16" with a 5/8" head. If you can get the exhaust manifold tubes off and the inverted flare pieces out you can put pipe plugs in the manifolds. If you don't remove this stuff, you will need to either remove the check valves or plug the nipples with high temperature RTV sealer.

On the intake manifold end seals, I have done it both ways with good results either way. If you go the RTV route, be sure the ends of the block are completely oil free, clean them with brake cleaner, not the environmentally friendly stuff but the stuff with the warnings. AutoZone's house brand works very well.

Did you ever determine for certain what started the fire? If a lot of stuff on the passenger side was burned you need to make sure the alternator is ok and not the cause. Your truck has the 2G alternator with the two plugs. These are very prone to catching fire at the charging plug (the one with the two big wires).

Good luck with it!

 

I have a couple of the thermal actuated vacuum trees that came off of my 351W. They arent the standard trees that are open all the time. These are actuated by something and I assume its temp. If you need them I will look for them and send them to you.

 

Thanks for all the help guys, I didn't think I needed the aluminum pan, but I just wanted to make sure. I'm sure glad it was on there though because when I pulled that old intake off, a bunch of stuff fell right on that sucker instead of into the motor, so that's good. I ended up moving all the fittings and thermostat from old manifold over to the edelbrock unit, so that should be going on pretty soon. I'm defintately going to end up removing the crossover pipe and plugging the hole, so thanks for all of that info. Progress might be going a little slow this next week due to several exams and school projects I'm not looking forward to, but that's life. I'll definately keep you guys posted when progress picks up again.

Lebaron - the fire didn't get close to the alternater really at all surprisingly. The only reason I think I lost that liquid A/C line was because of all the heat that was radiating and melted the side of the line (by the way I ended up finding a replacement at Pick & Pull like I had hoped). I know the fire started at the carb, because I opened the hood right when it happend (which probably made it flame up even more with that rush of oxygen) and the carb was flaming up. Any ideas on what could have caused it?? I'm guessing the old carb had bad seals and I'm hoping replacing everything will prevent it from happening again, but I'm not possitive, so ideas would be great. As always, thanks for everything guys.

 

A leaky acellerator pump or bowl gasket can let gas pool on the intake.
Float adjustment or a bad Powervalve can let raw fuel pool in the intake.

Bad ignition timing can cause a backfire that will set it off.

 

Holley carbs can leak fuel easily, and the fuel line has been known to work loose and spray fuel.

Jim, I have seen more than a few underhood fires start from fumes getting in side the distributor and igniting from the spark.